I'd like to see that. The paper gasket lines up on one pair of ports on my head but the other pair of ports is shifted by a little bit. Maybe 0.040 or 0.050. Just enough to cause an issue. Trick Flow might have adjusted their CNC program already?

The fel-pro paper gaskets I have here have the number 90175-1 stamped into them.
If you have the gasket sitting so the number is facing up, the bolt to port spacing is this:
Left end bolt hole edge to edge of number 1/8 port = .750"
Left center bolt hole edge to edge of number 3/6 port = .925"
Right center bolt hole edge to edge of number 5/4 port = .980"
Right end bolt hole edge to edge of number 7/2 port = .695"

On these gaskets( I have at least ten of these here and they are all like this), the bolt holes are shifted about .027 to one end, in relation to the port openings(of the gaskets).
The tin valley covers I checked are properly centered.

Measuring from the outside edges of the end ports is 12.300", with the center of the runner dividers being 9.645" apart.

The Indy SR gasket has the bolt hole spacing as; .690/.920-.920/.690.
Port outer edge to port outer edge is 12.335, with the runner divider center to center also being about 9.645.

I checked a couple of heads here that have CNC'd port openings.
The runner dividers on a Victor head are 9.595 apart, and a std port EZ has them at 9.555 apart.
Interestingly, both an Indy MW gasket and a Mr. Gasket MW gasket have the runner dividers 9.555 apart, whereas the tin valley trays are more like 9.600-9.625.

Maybe one of you guys that has some of these TF heads on hand can check the distance from runner divider center to runner divider center.

I have yet to see anybody measure the heads or a gasket correctly. For instance if you are going to measure bolt or hole locations you must first find the centerline (C/L) then base your measurement off the C/L. How can a comparison be made if hole diameters differ?

There are more wrong ways to measure than right ways. I have seen so many brand name gaskets that are wrong and I've also seen many cylinder heads that have machining inaccuracies. Be it from slop in the table or head of the machine or bad blue print info.

Also you should never use a gasket to base a port match from, it may be wrong.

Maybe y'all should try a different brand gasket
I may know somebody

The distance from runner divider center to runner divider center on my Early casting TF heads is 9.585. I am using the Fel Pro gaskets 90175-1. They and the valley pan measure as you stated. The gaskets openings are slightly larger then the tin valley pan. Putting the gaskets on the head numbers out to the intake manifold side they line up good with the gasket overhanging on the top. If swap the gasket and turn it numbers in, it is shifted on the ports to one side.

Valley pan, Has more overhang in center and top.

Gasket shifted up against intake bolts, lines up very nice.

Roadhazard, What is the distance between the runner divider centers on your gaskets?

The main purpose of the measurements I posted was to show how the port locations on the fel pro paper gaskets were not centered with the bolt holes, and that on the Indy gasket and the tin valley cover they were.
Also how the spread between to runner dividers on the gaskets and the heads don't seem to be on the same page.
You'd think that dimension should be constant........ But it definitely isn't.

Azzkikr, are you saying that all four ports line up good on the paper gasket with the numbers out?

Intake runner divider C/L is 9.615"

I have seen many gaskets from different manufacturers that had a pair of ports shifted one way or the other..... usually wide.

Don't know if they had a math error, stacking tolerances or measured a head that was wack

Center to center on the gasket is 9.583, on the Tin v-pan it is 9.599.
You are right on the bolts holes not being the same distance to the ports on the gaskets, vs the Tin v-pan.

Is that the same for both std port size and MW?

Yes the gasket lines up good on both sets of ports on my heads.
Other side with gasket.

........ and will have more when the bead is compressed

Last one.

I can't believe you guys are still using those dam valley pan gaskets. LOL

LOL Yeah you will not catch me using one, $30 laser cut ali and goo those gaskets to the heads

I concur, those metal bathtub intake gaskets are a PITA!

It would appear from azzkikr's pics that the TF head would also have the ports shifted slightly to one end since all the ports line up when the gaskets are centered on the bolt holes when the numbers are facing out, and don't line up when you flip the gasket over.
Seems like perhaps that's what TF used to determine the port layout/bolt hole relationship?

I certainly hope they did not use dimensions/ spacing from a gasket that may have been wrong.

Here's a good test to see if a pair of intake gaskets are symmetrical, as they should be in this application. Place them back side to back side and try to line up the ports. Also notice any variances in bolt hole locations.

Ours match up exact with only a very slight variance in hole location. I can't tell you how many heads I measured for bolt hole locations and all were different to some degree so I had to "settle" on a figure. Still, the bolts will go in with plenty of room to spare if the gasket needs to be shifted for any reason.

See my post https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2004008

My ports are symmetrical. I wonder if there are really some Trick Flow heads out there which don't have symmetrical port pairs - or if Trick Flow changed the porting. Mine are of the early type with the hole not filled in (ordered mid-October).