Here is the thing about modern ignition systems. It puts out, what it puts out. You can make spark jump a mile, but it will be no hotter and no more intense. It just is what it is. And as already covered, the MSD is a multi(ple) spark discharge, meaning you get more than a single pulse of spark per event. You get multiple sparks. An MSD is also a CD ignition, meaning capacitive discharge, which produces a VERY high spark voltage, by charging the coil quickly with high power. A digital 7 for example, produces 190 millijoules per spark. CD ignitions, while hot, produce a very short burst and that is why the Multi spark concept was designed. If the arc time is short, just make a lot of them.

Factory cars on the other hand, have "induction" type ignition systems and always have, which means the fire is relative to the saturation time on the coils and is a single spark. That's why old schools coils are so big. More windings, more saturation, more energy. The problem with induction ignition, is dwell time to charge the coil. Whats good at low speed, is not good at high speed, so it's a compromise at best and can't be adjusted. If you remember points days, the number was generally 32* of dwell. That's a compromise, because at low speed 15* would be better and at high speed 60* would be, but we couldn't do that. This is where HEI came in. It is basically a little computer that adjusts dwell time in relation to rpm, but it had a small range of about 15-40*. But ALL inductive systems still suffer from a thing called "roll off". Which means as rpm increases the saturation time on the coil gets too short to be efficient and spark energy gets weak.

Now that ignition basics and how it works are covered......do we want to talk about coils. Because the box is the box and makes the power it makes. It's ONE and ONLY job is to charge the coil. The COIL is what delivers the energy to the dist and or plugs and they come in various styles. Some have very quick peak energy and some have sustained energy. So as with any other part of a car, the TOTAL SYSTEM is what matters, not one individual component. Right box, wrong coil..the system won't work well.

Straight from MSD's website:

3. What is the best spark plug gap for my application?
The spark plug is the point in the ignition system where electrical energy is converted into heat, consequently, the
larger the gap the greater the amount of heat available to light the air/fuel mixture. However, too large of gap combined
with increased cylinder pressures can put excessive pressures on the initial voltage needed to ionize (cross)
the gap. Finding the optimum plug gap for your application is best determined by experimentation because there are
so many engine variables to consider.
An MSD Ignition Control has enough output power to consistently fire wider spark plug gaps on a performance
engine. As a starting point, follow the engine builder or manufacturer’s recommendation for the plug gap. With that,
you can experiment with increasing the gap until the best performance is found.
As a rule of thumb, it is recommended to increase the plug gap by .005” - .010” followed by testing and tuning.
Keep in mind that larger spark plug gaps also place increasing demands on the secondary portion of the ignition
system including the distributor cap and rotor, coil wire, and spark plug wires. They should all be in top condition and
checked periodically during the race season. Remember that electricity takes the path of least resistance to a ground
so if the gap is too large the spark may short to another point with less resistance.

Racers whipping butt at the track are NOT running .055 gaps--
Testing with a race car will almost always Prove that no matter what you are running CR, Boost, NOS, whatever--tighter gaps work best even if you have an ARC welder strapped to your distributor cap--"conventional wisom " is usually proven to be BS time after time
READING about gaps odes nothing but keep you out of trouble while your nose is in a book--Racing, Dyno testing, etc with an engine shows you what really happens
I run really fast with .015 gaps on a mag--big compression, alky etc

Go ahead..run that big gap who cares!!!

The area of contention, at least mine, is the statement to run "as wide as you can". I simply don't agree. That's taxing the system for no reason. If the car runs the same at .025 as it does at .040, there is no reason in taxing the components for zero gain.

As long as we are all flingin a little shat around, I asked the OP what his application was - street, street /strip, race only. Based on what he was working with, I assumed street or street / strip. He said race only. Per MSD, the 6 is the wrong application for race only. They are recommending it for street or street / strip only. Plus the OP wants to add N02 from time to time. His choice of ignitions could be marginal at any plug gap. Ok, I'm sure will get a slew of people that are running that ignition in a race only application - and running "really fast".

Taken out of context, to fit your needs. You left out "as long as you can still light the plugs". At least it looks like you have done some reading up on the subject. Good thing. Maybe next time you won't be quite so quick with your wise azz comments.

Mine is set .035 on a 6AL box I've owned since the late 80's. I tried wider, made 0 difference in et.
I'm getting ready to start a "How do you adjust valves thread now"

If that snow blower will not start then do like the mower shop does and tighten up dat gap!
I don't care if your coil will jump a ditch--about .035 will run fantastic on anything that has a steering wheel and .055 will not help one bit that 95% of you can Prove! Geeez!!!