And appropriately enough it is Gold.
Dad decided he wanted something a little less "flashy" than the Banshee Dart so this is going back together as a sleeper.
I picked this up in the fall with plans for a new build for him.
Body is solid and the paint is...well I can live with it.
Plan is to remove the 225 /6 and 904 along with the 7 1/4 and replace them with a 416-727 and 8 3/4.
I do need to come up with a dash pad as this one is toast.
I'm sure I'll have to source a bunch of other parts along the way...

The plastic trim on the body is the only thing I will be removing from the exterior.
I picked up a set of Wilwood disc brakes for all 4 corners and am re-using a 65 B Body 8 3/4 I had laying around along with a set of 4.56 gears.
Plan is to use Cal Tracs rear suspension and tie the frame together with the kit from US Cartool. It got backed into the garage today to begin the transformation after removing the stinking gas tank and lines outside a month or so ago.

That's the last pic there will be of this outside until it rolls out in the spring under it's own power.

That body looks REALLY nice! Is that original paint?

Either way, since you're not doing a repaint, I would proceed carefully on the side moulding--even if you successfully remove it without damaging the paint you will very likely be left with a fading issue as evidence the moulding used to be there.

The car was painted in 1993 when the 1/2 vinyl top was removed. It just looks like enamel...not base-clear. The moldings were added around 2010. Why is a mystery but by being garage kept it may not hurt it.
There's one small spot that is loose and doesn't look any different under it. I'll definitely be proceeding with caution while using a small heat gun or hair dryer.

I could maybe leave them on if they were straight. The DS doesn't look too bad but the PS is up and down...

Nice project looks simple and easy which none of mine ever turn out to be

I ordered a set of the US Car Tool frame rails to tie this together.
Dad is adamant that he does not want a roll cage so these should work well with no severe modifications.
The floors underneath look clean...someone had glued the replacement carpet down which made it a real PITA to get out and remove all the glue.

Up in the air for cleaning the floors and frame rail tie in...

OH MY GAWD!!! LOOK AT THOSE 'JACK STANDS'!!!!

Man that thing is clean!! So nice to see and unrusted car theses days. Looks like a fun project, keep up the great work!

After everything I've seen or that was discussed about welding the frame connectors in this was the best way to have all the actual weight on the suspension and still be in the air. Would you rather see a pic with four CHROME jack stands?

Chrome is good. "The More Chrome The Better"

Since the "Garden" is more important than the car...forward progress has been lacking...
Both of the new frame rails from US Car Tool are mocked up, trimmed and ready to be welded in.
These fit pretty decent and are definitely better than cutting the floors for box tube rails when you may not need them.
Below is how well they fit in...once the ends are tacked in I can adjust the floors in the center to help close up any gaps...

All in all I think these are a worthwhile addition...

The new US Car Tool frame rails are welded in.
They fit pretty good.

Inside the floor all you see is the spot welds and they're kind of hard to find.
Man its nice not having to do a bunch of rust repair for a change...

The new 002 and 003 rear leaf springs are going in now with the 65 B Body 8 3/4 with 4.56 gears.
Here's a pic of the sliders were using on this at the rear.
The front spring hangers have been moved back 3/4".

The wildwood brake parts for the front and rear.
Definitely the best way to convert a 4" bolt pattern car to 4 1/2" bolt pattern.

The /6 and trans is out now and the under hood cleaning has begun. As much as I'd like to I don't think the original paint is good enough to just clean it all up. There's a few areas where its loose and peeling so we're probably going to have to re-spray it.

This is just for you Tom...

There's also a couple pics of the 416 that will go in later and a bunch of /6 parts for cheap if anyone can use them...

Cool build, I love sleepers!

Dad has managed to get the 65 B Body 8 3/4 back in with new axles from Dr Diff and the Wilwood brakes on.
We flipped the front spring hangers upside down and moved them back 3/4". The rear of the springs have sliders rather than shackles.
The 15x7 steel wheels I have on in the pics are 4 1/4" back space but the 27.5" tires have a very wide section width compared to the tread. (9 1/2" section width...6" tread...7" wheel)I didn't really trust them for an accurate back space due to the increased section width as it relates to the tires position to the leaf springs.

I unbolted the 17x9.5 5 1/5" back-space wheels from my Satellite and bolted them up to see how they fit. These tires are 275/60/17's and measure almost 30" tall.
The true 5.5" backspace gave me 1" of clearance to the springs on the inside.
The tires on these have an 11" section width with a 9.5" tread on a 9.5" wheel.
5.5 is what I am ordering rather than trying to push the limit with a 6" back space not knowing if a wider tread tire may have more section width.

I pulled the trigger on these wheels from summit with a full set of lug nuts for the 60 degree conical seat.
Fronts... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VSW-521H5465P-19
Rears... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VSW-521H5165P0
Lugnuts... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-45088-20
I thought the price on these were excellent!
4 wheels with lugs for less than $500.00 shipped to the door.
Here's a few other pics of the 17" wheels and how they fit...

Also a big Thx. to Cass at Dr. Diff for walking me through what needed to be done to the brake parts as Wilwoods design wasn't exactly correct.

The new wheels arrived and I mocked one up.
I like these lugs a lot better than the fighting the shouldered ones...
Now I need to start looking at tire combinations...
Dad wants radials...No more bias...Maybe a set of MT ET Streets...

V8 K frame is back from the sandblaster. I'll add a little extra welding and some etching primer for now.
I think were going to assemble everything and install the engine, transmission, headers and suspension thru the bottom with a dolly.
Also decided that with winter coming to add a 13' x 24' lean to on the end of the garage to house the Duster for the winter and provide an area separate from the Dart to control the mess in the garage...

Multi-tasking is good Remodel the kitchen while you're at it? lol

I like the father-son projects a lot. This one should be a blast!

Great job keep up the work

Moved the Duster over into its temporary home for now.
Dad wants to keep it rolling to push in and out while the addition gets finished on the inside.
It delays any work being done on the car but when it gets cold will provide a good place to do it...a trade-off of sorts I guess...

After seeing what some others are doing as far as lightening and cleaning up their K frames I started working on the one for the Duster today. It's a little rough around the edges so it won't be a show piece but I can knock off some weight and neaten it up some...
Here are some before pics...

A couple more...
After some chopping...welding...cussing and grinding I'll post up a couple finished pics...

Sleeper patina cars are awesome.

I just picked up a 72 Challenger I plan on doing the same thing......

Dad has been working on the Duster nearly every day since his garden slowed down. All of the inner fenders have been sanded and primed...
The undercoating was removed from the inner wheelhouses in the front.
K frame is finished and in primer.

A couple more pics...Thought I had some of the K frame but???

Dad has been working on this nearly everyday now.
We mocked the K frame back up in it to let it roll around as he wants to clean the rest of the rear unibody. Somebody take notice to the spindles. They're the stock ones for 10 brakes but I think he has them mocked up on the wrong sides...
Let me know if they are so I can get them swapped around when everything goes back together permanently...
Does it matter using the aftermarket Wilwood calipers and brackets?

Dad has been making pretty good progress on this...
I went down last week and removed the heater and air box...wiper motor and wiring plug from the firewall...pulled the cluster and took the trashed dash pad off.
He installed a metal firewall behind the back seat to the trunk area since the battery is going to the trunk along with the fuel cell.
He didn't say anything to me about it but he removed all of the side moldings from the drivers side...not a mark in the paint and there is no discoloration...

A couple up close pics of the fender and door...
This works out well...He calls and says order this...that and the other...I get to shop for it...find what I would want to use and pay for it...I drop it off to him and he pays me back...Kinda like Christmas shopping with someone else's money...
The fuel cell and mounts installed along with the battery box...
All installations and all fabricating is his ideas and designs...I kind of lead him which way I would like to see it go and help with making sure everything works together but this build is for the most part all him... 78 years old and still keeping busy...

Now you see why I try to coordinate everything ahead of time...

I had a guy come down and shoot the gun to match up paint on the car to mix up something that would match for under the hood. He did...no one checked it...Dad picked it up and paid for it...took it home and sprayed it and

"So you get what we have here...which is failure to communicate...I don't like it any more than you do...but that's the way he wants it...Well he gets it"

Dad likes it...To say that I hate it doesn't even come close...
Needless to say the hood will always remain closed...

Hello Quint
This project is coming along nicely but why mount the fuel cell up so high

Far as paint not matching once the engine is installed shouldn't be too noticeable but of course I wear bifocals

P.s where did the fuel cell and battery box come from

It's kind of a his car...his rules thing. The cell has the rear fittings down low...everyone I talked to seemed to think you want the pump to be gravity fed as it is a push style pump.
He didn't want to cut the trunk floor out so he made the brackets and then drilled a few holes. The way it is it will gravity feed the filter and pump assembly... I tried to get him to use a smaller cell down in the spare tire well but nothing really fit well...even the 8 gallon one I had was a little too big at the bottom.... add that to the fact he didn't want the filter and pump down low where it could be seen either...

Battery box is a "Taylor" kit from Summit. Fuel cell and -8 fuel lines were a Summit package. I get the battery box by itself and use the Summit 2 gauge wire battery relocation kit as it's a few bucks cheaper and also has the extra grommets. Call me if you need anything I can reference the invoice and give you part numbers if you want...

We're going to try something different under the hood...He scuffed everything up...I just need to find something suitable to put back in...He said black and I just may go that route...

I took down a bunch of hand tools today to start bending the brake lines and installing the fuel and electrical stuff...I had a manual fuel shut-off valve to put inline prior to the filter as the way it is you couldn't change filter out unless the cell was empty...So I took that down with all the fittings today also...The trans came back from being freshened and all of the new motor mounts and everything showed up. I need to make another order tonight for a few odds and ends he also wants...
He wants to clean up everything in the interior and maybe paint a few areas that are worn before putting the seats and carpeting back in...

We got the fuel lines finished at the rear...still have to cut it off up front to attach to the carb.

Began running brake lines and installed the 2 gauge positive wire running to the front of the car.

And its black...

Very cool project Skicker! I think the black looks better than the
funky tan? color of the engine bay, oh well. Ya know, my Duster started out almost exactly like yours did!! '72, Gold, tan vinyl bench interior, 318 2 bbl, auto, A/C, whitewalls/hubcaps.....now it has a 1971 340 based 040" over engine block, that is now 418" CI, Eagle 4" forged crank, Scat I beam rods, Keith Black forged pistons,
Bullet solid mechanical cam, roller rockers, ported Victor jr intake, fully ported/polished J heads, Demon 850 cfm mech. carb. 727 all fully built, 3000 stall convertor, B&M Ratchet shifter, 489 case 8-3/4 with 4.10 Richmond gears...15" Ralleye wheels...
etc. But my car is now "Chili Pepper" Red, instead of the original Gold. I really wish the previous owners, would have left it in the original paint, oh well.
The interior was changed to all factory black, with original factory 1972 Duster bucket seats.
I bought mine the way it is currently, it was all built less than 5 years ago, with about only 575 miles currently on the drivetrain. I wish you all the luck to you, and your dad on the Duster, keep sendind us pics of the progress!

Thx...I tried to push for a color change in the interior too...He decided he wanted to take everything apart and clean it up as good as it will....
Once I removed everything and it was cleaned up it was all still 8 different shades of a tan-gold-off white...
The door panels and plastic backers had never been off of this before as all plastic was in place with the original black tape.
It is now being prepped for a re-do with a color similar to the original along with a slightly darker color for the metal panels on the door and around the side windows...
I managed to get the brakes completed and bled out...
Shout out to Cass for choosing the m/cyl bore about perfect for 4 corner 4 piston disc brakes. Car has a great pedal feel...
A few brake lines were re-routed and a rear adjustable prop valve was installed along with 12" long stainless hoses up front.

Interior began to go back in...
All door panels, package tray and headliner are completed...
I did have to buy new armrests and bases as both were broken and the armrest pads were covered over by the previous owner...
Splurged for a new dome light lens and chrome lock knobs...
Turns out I had a decent dash pad tucked away so we used it...
Now I think he wants new seat covers...
Before and after pics included...

more new interior...

Looks great! Now I see what my interior would have looked like when it was
tan, when my car was new...keep updating us with progress, have a great
Christmas.

Any new progress on the Duster lately?

There is 4 new wheels and tires on it... 275-60-15 M/T ET Streets...
Need to stop by tonight and get a few pics...
I also need to find some time to stop down and get the under dash wiring all hooked up for the MSD and the relocated battery...
I'll finish the steering column when I can get the motor in from the bottom with the K frame and put everything together once...

What wheels did you end up using? Rear wheel backspace used?
Any fitment issues using the M/T 275/60/15's out back?
Is the rear 8-3/4 axle stock factory width?

I was thinking of using same rear tire eventually on my Duster, but wasn't
sure they would fit, I have factory 15X7 Ralleys all the way around.

The rear is an uncut width 65 B Body housing from a Belvedere.
I ordered axles from Cass at Dr. Diff with green bearings so that I could use the Wilwood disc brake backing plates.
The wheels are 15" x 9 1/2" with 5 1/2" of backspace. They are Summit "Vision" wheels and are on their website. They look like Weld Drag Lites for about 1/3 the price and they are heavier than Drag Lites.
Springs are Superstock 002 and 003 and have been moved back 3/4". The front perches have been flipped upside down to lower the ride height down some. There are sliders at the rear rather than the factory shackles.
There is about 3/4" from the inside bulge of the tire to the side of the leaf springs.
Here are the pics...

I don't think they will ever rub on the 1/4's but I'll have to wait and see what the final ride height looks like when everything is finished.
Body cleaned up pretty good and looks a lot better without the side moldings. I did put new side marker lights in as the old ones were pretty rough...

Any new progress on the Duster lately?

Dad had been waiting for the engine to come back from being freshened.
New Promaxx heads were installed with an M1 intake.
Cam was advanced a couple degrees.
I don't know what the Hell is up with the corporate Blue but whatever...

Finding all of the small parts needed has been a PITA.
I knew I had the correct pulleys for manual steering somewhere...along with the alternator and modified throttle cable brackets. Not to mention all of the correct length bolts and spacers.
After a couple hours online I managed to sort out all of the fittings....hoses...and bolt on parts to get this installed.
Aftermarket this and that just leads to modifying everything as nothing fits as stock did...
First we did the Convertor and Flex Plate...then the Transmission and cross-member...then the starter...
Since we upgraded to the 73 up spool mount K frame we also changed out the cross-member for the 73-up spool mount one.
I used a shorter ground strap this time and I think it will work out better.

The trans has a reverse manual valve body so there is no kick down linkage required.
Next the Doug's # 453 headers were installed...followed by the K frame and the manual steering box. (Side note Promaxx heads are not drilled deep enough for the headers bolts included with the Doug's headers...you will need to cut about 1/8" off of the bolts as they bottom out before tightening up.)
The starter is wired to be used with a Ford Relay so the starter lead is one wire with an aluminum bracket crossing the starter posts.

We had to tap the two holes in the water pump where the bypass hose and heater hoses were located.
Lower control arms with new bushings and new strut rod bushings installed...
Alternator brackets and spacers worked out...
Lokar flexible transmission dipstick used rather than stock...
MSD distributor in using the black advance pill along with one silver and one blue spring rather than the factory "barn door" springs.
New 45* Taylor wires and plugs and its ready to install from the bottom...

All these hours and hours of work to make the install take about 10 minutes...
I installed the torsion bars from the front and slid them about halfway back through the cross-member...
We had made a 2x2 box tube that fits between the frame rails to lift the car with the engine crane...
It is as simple as lifting it up and them positioning the engine and trans and then lowering it back down...
Put the 4 transmission cross member bolts in 1st(leave the trany mount a little loose) and then lower it on down until the K frame bolts can be installed...
Index the LCA's to the torsion bars and slide them in...then install the torsion bar bolts...
Literally 10 minutes and its back on the jack stands to button everything up...

All front suspension will need to be hooked back up...
I should have the radiator and a few more small parts early this week...
I installed the trans dipstick and the MSD Coil and wiring from the box...
I still need to rework the entire steering column after changing to manual steering and modify all the wiring to install the MSD box under the dash...
Still need to make the -6 stainless transmission lines to the radiator and the cooler...
Re-install the front seat...guess I'm going to be busy...

Great job Quint missed you again at the Nats

Thx Eldon...
Yea with getting this ready for him I haven't done anything with my cars.
I had ordered a few more things and they came on Saturday.
I used a set of 3" mandrel bent offset pipes ordered from Hedman to get past the torsion bar cross member. They are 23" long but I will cut them down to 18" or so to have tuner tubes built into the system. This will also allow me to remove them behind the torsion bar cross member if I ever need to remove the transmission.
Carb was a 750 that a friend had that worked well. I increased the jets a little and we pushed it outside and fired it off to break the motor in yesterday.
It ran for about 25 minutes with zero issues and better than that zero leaks...Not so sure it may not need just a little more jet installed...
It did climb to about 205 degrees on temp with oil pressure right about 65#. Lowered the idle back down at the end and it carried about 60# hot.
I have a little more wiring to do inside and need to mount the gauges correctly and drain the air from the oil pressure line.
Install the front seat and finish bolting the ashtray and glove box door on.
I'll take the title up this week and get everything transferred over and get tags.
Driveshaft was ordered Friday and should be in this week. Car was set up to run 7290 joints front and rear so using a 3" driveshaft I should never have any failures. For those who may need to know the new shaft was 45 3/4" but the spring hangers on this car are back 3/4" so I would think a 45" shaft would be correct.
Somewhere along the line I need to drop it off and get a front end alignment...After that he should be ready to take it out and see what the first thing he can break is...

The new gauges are the Stewart Warner Green Line's.
I have them in my 70 and they work great and are easy to read.
The Switch is a separate switch for the electric fuel pump. I have it wired key hot so he can't accidentally leave it on but wanted to be able to shut it off if I needed to...
Once I get the hood back on I'll still need to sort out an air cleaner that stays under the hood as he does not want to cut anything.
In looking at the pics I may also lower the front ride height a small amount...
I also ordered a factory Gold Duster side stripe kit in Matte Black to put back on it...

Nice work, you got a lot done during your hiatus

Sorry to disappoint Shoozy but everything on this since I got the engine back happened in about 9 or 10 days...The other little "adventure" Lets just say I'm glad its behind me and I now know better...
As for the Duster the side stripe package came in yesterday so I'll have to add that to my list.
I still need to button up the interior and dash items...file the title work and get tags...driveshaft should be in this week...drop it off for a front end alignment...put the hood and air cleaner on...
Then it's just nut and bolt everything and make sure nothing was missed...
I have 17 days left so I'd think its no problem...
I did notice two drops of transmission fluid on the floor last night so I'm not sure what fresh he!! that will involve...

So a little more progress...Called and put insurance on it today...
Got the dash completed and the gauges and fuel pump switch mounted...
Installed the glove box door...ashtray...kick panels and door sill trim.
3" Driveshaft is finished and ready to be picked up tomorrow...
DMV tomorrow to do the title and tags...

Tomorrow night is install the driveshaft and bolt the seat back in...See what's up with the trany leak while I'm there...
Top off the transmission fluid...double check the timing and maybe bolt the hood back on...
I ordered a factor Gold Duster side stripe package about a week ago...Dad got it installed today...
Changed the whole look...

All this talk about the old man, how about a picture of him with the car when complete.
Car looks great!

Thought that may be tough but I found a few...
I need to make it a point to get pics with him more often...

Car looks great, stance is everything!

So the driveshaft install went...
Seems some idiot ordered a 7290 joint when he should have had a 7260...
Did manage to get the hood bolted back on and the front seat bolted in...
Dad spent some time with polishing compound just cleaning everything up. Turned out pretty decent...
There's little bumps and bruises everywhere on the body...bumpers...everything...But it still makes for a good 20 footer...
Up in the air now waiting for the u-joint...I'll also go over everything underneath...tags are on it...just need a front end alignment Friday morning...
Sure has come a ways from the last pic...

Installed the new rear u-joint and driveshaft...
Topped off the transmission fluid after running it on jack stands for a while...
After setting the front end close Dad took the 1st test ride around the block last night...
Added a little jetting to the carb and its ready for the front end alignment on Friday morning.
Two 20' black marks showed up in the driveway...no idea how...
No pics so I guess it didn't happen...

That's cool too hear never to old for a father and son project. Hope he enjoys it

He took it out Friday Night...and then again Saturday...
Made a point to let me know the Dart didn't have anything for the Duster...Go figure...
This week I need to try to get some exhaust on it as the tuner tubes are just too loud...I order a set of 3" Flowmaster 40's for it Saturday night so I should have them by Tuesday...
Next w/e there are about 4-5 different shows he can go to starting on Thursday Night thru Monday...Rain forecasted for all 5 days...
Maybe I'll just let him take the Dart since its quieter...
I'll take the Duster...

The engine builder took the car last Wednesday and put dual 2 1/2" exhausts with Flowmaster 40's and tail pipes all the way to the bumper...So I guess its done...Less maybe a set of exhaust tips some time...and I think I want to put a battery disconnect in it...wipers...I guess they're never really done...

He went Friday and had a little bigger set of front tires put on...
He drove it Thursday...Friday...Saturday...Sunday and Monday...no hinky mechanical issues...never got hot in 90 degree temps...
He doesn't know it but I did manage to remove a little rubber from the back tires Saturday Night...
Gave a ride to the guy we bought the motor from Saturday... he seems to think its in the 11.50's range...
Talked to Dad this morning...he's looking for another car to start on...

I can point him in the right direction to find 1 real close to you LOL

Yea...I thought about that one too...
Problem is I would have to fund that one...

I just re-read the whole thread, but didn't see any specs on the engine.
What can you tell us about all the internal parts in the 340? Has it been to the dyno as well? What type fuel do you use? The Duster looks like it turned out great! Congrats!

I don't know any of the internal specs.
I bought the motor used from a friend.
340 block with a stroker kit...ends up being 416. Probably .030 bore?
It was put together about 10 years or so ago...
With W2 heads it ran 11.20's in a 70 Dart...he said if he would put it back in he'd freshen it.
Dad bought the short block...convertor and the transmission out of the 70 Dart. It was removed from his car sent out and gone through.
All bearing tolerances were dead on and everything inside looked great. A fresh hone and new rings and bearings is all that was done.
The compression is a little higher now with the Promaxx heads rather than the W2's that were previously on it. I think the engine builder said about 10.2-1. Cam was advanced from where it was installed previously.
Pump gas motor..750 carb...could maybe use an 850. MSD distributor with one silver and one blue spring and black advance pill (18 degree). 36 degree's total timing...
Doug's #453 headers 3500 convertor RMVB 727 with 4.11 gears and 28" M/T ET Streets.
Seems to pull pretty hard. It's a lot stronger than the 340 in the 69 Dart.
No Dyno time...calculating the short block with the heads and the size of the runners and everything the engine builder figures its in the 465-475 range...
All I know is it's all he needs...at 79 he don't need to go any faster...
We got the motor from a member here...maybe he'll chime in with the particulars about the engine...

That's really interesting. Your dad's drive-train seems to be very similar to my Duster's drive-train. The 340 in mine was built about 4-5 years ago, with a Eagle 4 inch crank, and .040 Icon forged pistons, Scat I beam rods, = 418 CI. I believe my compression is just under your dad's engine at 10.1-1.
The builder used the factory J heads, but they are fully ported/polished, with stainless 2.02 intake/1.60 valves, and Indy roller rockers. Camshaft is a solid unit, from Bullet Racing .... 248 deg. duration @.050. IMHO the cam could be a little larger with more duration, but, it's only a street car! Intake is a Victor 340 that's ported/polished too, and a Demon 850 cfm carb up top. Summit electric fuel pump with braided 3/8" lines throughout. I use 91 unleaded ( no ethanol) from the local elavator station.

My trans is a forward pattern MVB 727, and a 3200 stall convertor,with a 4.10 gear in the 8-3/4. Mickey Thompson Sportsman Pro 26X10.50" tires.
Don't know what brand headers... Hedman maybe..not sure? 3 inch exhaust to rear bumper. The guy I bought it from, told me the Duster should be
an easy high 11 second car...but I don't want to take it to a track until get some frame connectors welded in first. And a drive-shaft loop as well. My Duster pulls really well too, Have not taken it to the local track, as of yet though.
What are the specs on those Pro-Maxx heads your'e using??

I have no clue...The engine builder checked out several different heads...had I think decided on one (sidewinder maybe?)and I had ask around about it also and found a few things he didn't like about them after talking with a couple racers.
After a lengthy discussion with Pittsburghracer I called Todd at Marsh Performance about a set of heads.
I forwarded Todd's contact info to the engine builder and those two decided what to use...Also ended up getting the rockers and shafts and maybe even push rods through Todd.

http://www.mopartsracing.com/

Marsh Performance
1250 Wilson Road
Linwood, NC 27299
Call: 336-283-0800

‘73 340 block bored .030
Decked .018 for 0 deck
ARP main studs
Mopar cast 4” crank
CAT H-beam Rods
Diamond dishes pistons

Ran 11.20s @ 119 in my 70 Dart 3350# with a 4000 converter and 4.10s

Any specs on the camshaft??

I'll have to defer to 340 Dart...
Whatever it is it seems to work pretty good...

Very similar to how mine looked when I started. Great looking build.

Your dad just wants to keep busy and he loves working on his cars. What is the next project?

No idea yet...Right now he's almost done planting everything for his garden...he seems to always be looking around...

I went down Thursday and bled the brakes out one more time...

Set the timing...he had already run the valves...

It definitely pulls hard...

I'm sure it won't be long before he finds another project for you to work on, I mean for him to work on. I really hate to say this because it will make your BIG head even bigger but I think it's great that you help your dad out as much as you do. I know you put in a LOT of hours there and I'm sure he appreciates it, now get off your BUTTS and find you guys another Mopar.

There is a Test/Tune at Mason Dixon on the 26th of October and then again on the 9th of November...I'm going to watch the weather and maybe plan on taking it down and let him try it out...

He's been running it everywhere...drives it 40 miles or so one way to car shows and such...

As of now there hasn't been any mechanical issues at all...

It just gets 91 pump gas put in and he logs miles...

He has been playing with jetting and tuning on it little by little...

I took it out for a little while a couple Saturday's ago and noticed its trying to spin at the initial hit...Its never done that before....

Come to find out he swapped the stock shocks off of the back and put a set of KYB Gas shocks on it...

It didn't feel like it stood as hard as it did before...

He had taken it out and hit it a few times and noticed the same thing...

After pulling the gas shocks off they were 2 1/2" shorter on full extension than the stock oil shocks...

Changed out the shocks and its back to normal...

There's not much convertor in it at 3500 but it will dead hook from an idle on the street and leaves hard...

Using the MSD Streetfighter box I currently have the rev limiter set at 6500...I may need to raise that up a little to go to the track...

He swears it still pulls hard when it hits the limiter...

really nice!

Is that your green 70 sitting beside your dad's car

Yea...I still run it around a lot...I'd like to do a couple updates...9 or 10 summers and almost 20K on it since it was built...

If nothing else it needs a few things blown apart...cleaned up and detailed again...

Took it to the track for the 1st time last Saturday...

Car was raced just as it is driven on the street with no modifications...

Best run was an 11.66 at 113 mph...

Nice run. Sorry I couldn't make it, I had to take a 340 off my start cart and put the old Hemi on it and get it running for a guy to see. I was predicting a 11.74 run, guessed pretty close. Did you drive it or your dad?

That's a fine-looking car you have.

Thx to all who have replied...

Mike...I drove it...we got down there and he didn't feel like driving it...

I got a p/m with someone wanting to see how the spring sliders were attached.

Above them is a 3/16" plate with holes drilled in it and nuts welded to the inside.

The plates are welded in and the sliders just bolt on.

Nice work on the sliders

Very cool! Do you happen to remember what RPM's you were shifting at?

With no tach I'm not sure...

Seemed like I wound the 1-2 shift a good bit but I know it was below 6,500 cause that's where its chipped at...

The 2-3 was less than the 1-2...

For the 1st trip down on a new build I'll take it...

Especially in street trim with no mods...

It will run a better number probably just by installing a tach...

I may just put a light in it since he doesn't want a tach...

Iv'e got a 3-3/4" tach on the steering column with a mini programmable shift light, and my Rev N nator box is set at 6,500 IIRC. I still need to get some subframe connectors welded in, and some better rear tires, before I will take mine out for some testing in the spring. Once again, great job on the Duster, keep us posted on any new mods, or track testing

So dad decided he wants to sell the Duster...

Everything that was ever done to it has been documented here...

Any thoughts on what it is worth?

Hate to see it go y'all put all of work in the car and street friendly to boot .... Hope he change is mind

Too bad he wants to sell it so soon after it's completion. Not sure about sale price...maybe $20-25k Good luck with it, maybe he will change his mind and decide to keep it!

Time for an update on this...

He didn't drive it a lot but did get it out from time to time...

I don't think it gets driven enough to keep the fuel fresh and ethanol fuel got blamed for it running different from time to time...

He purchased 25 gallon of non ethanol fuel and put it in...

He never thought to make sure the octane was 93 and what was bought was 87 octane...

In September of 21 it broke a ring land on #8 piston between the top 2 compression rings...

Seven cylinders had 195# of cylinder pressure and #8 had 95#.

The engine was removed and 8 new Ross pistons are now installed...

I had it ran on the dyno to get everything set correctly and installed it back into the car over the w/e...

I also installed a new convertor built just for this combo...

Drove it about 5 miles yesterday and everything seems okay...

Back on the road!