Scratch starting isn't a problem any more. Between getting the right electrodes, and the right settings and gas, a nicely ground tip makes this thing a breeze to start. No effort at all. Now, I can't figure out how I couldn't get it to start in the first place.

Ok, back to cages. Just come to the conclusion I need the whole cage in a 73 Cuda. My question, where is the best place for the down bar at windshield post? Bar out to front rail too. Floor and firewall are out so figured it would be better to do the cage now before they go back in. Pictures would be nice to show pros and cons, one chap said to make sure not to put it so its hard to see the staging lights??? I also want to keep the vin tag, but don't mind going through the dash pad and behind dash frame. I know there was anouther thread that showed this but I can't find it right now. Thanks

I would put the A pillar bars close to the A pillars
going through the pad... see where your VIN is and
make sure you clear it... this is what I did on my
Rampage... you can see them here.. they go down through
the dash pad

How did you put the pad in? Just notch it?

Mine ended up being sorta notched.. if you can
drill a hole in it and put the tube through it
then weld it.. its mainly about how you will assemble
that area of the car.. mine is a separate chassis(I
set the body down over the chassis) so I had to notch
part of the pad.. if your welding in the tubes while
its in the car then just cut a hole with a hole saw
and stick the tube through it

I'm going to drop the cage down to weld the top of the bars so the dash will go in later. I'll notch it then piece-glue the piece back in I guess.

I'm going to drop the cage down to weld the top of the bars so the dash will go in later. I'll notch it then piece-glue the piece back in I guess. [/quote]

The way a dash is on a L-body(Rampage is the same
in the front of the car) is the pad covers the face
of the dash and on to part of the top.. then it has
a metal plate thing.. this is where the defroster
ducts come up.. I had to notch both parts so there
wasnt anything to glue in for me... but maybe you will
have to

The way a dash is on a L-body(Rampage is the same
in the front of the car) is the pad covers the face
of the dash and on to part of the top.. then it has
a metal plate thing.. this is where the defroster
ducts come up.. I had to notch both parts so there
wasnt anything to glue in for me... but maybe you will
have to
[/quote]
73 Cuda

Here you go lots of pics here on how to do the front half.
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1156159

The main concern is for cleanliness with alum, steel often being dirtier and oiled, steel tigging is more forgiving. Your gloves contaminating the tig rods is where the issue arises.

I have a thumb wheel and a pedal, switch between when the need arises, put pedal is always my first choice. Miller recently offered a wireless floor pedal, which is lighter and must be a lot easier inside a car to use, but found out after installing it, it only works with the newest machines.

I have a new favorite toy store: Airgas! After only one of the tool trucks that come to my dealership had welding gloves, he told me $60.00. Took a trip to Airgas, where we get our supplies from. 2 #5 cups, a cheater lens, 3 pairs of tig gloves (buy 2, get 1 free) state tax, county tax, district tax, total came to $23.07. I wanted some ER70S6 filler rod, but they were all out. I guess that means another trip next week

I just want to take the time to say "Thank You" to everybody that helped me get through the initial walking steps of Tig welding. To all my friends, co-members, and just anyone who cared enough to add a response and give some guidance, Thank You All. I welded my first critical pieces today, the Racecraft ladder bars. I bought the unwelded kit for a custom length. Practiced on a couple of pieces of scrap C/M before I attempted to weld the fittings to the tubes. I was nervous because of the thin wall tubing and the solid fittings absorbing heat differently. All of a sudden, you just "Get it". The sound, the puddle, the arc, just all starts to flow as one. Was really a cool experience. Tomorrow, the rear suspension goes into the chassis. I can't wait to install the cage.

Glad to see your getting the hang of it.. when
you weld thick and thinner parts its all about
the direction of the tip to apply the heat to the
thicker part... get it hot enough to make your
puddle then you will see you have to start backing
out of the heat... have fun
EDIT
once you get the hang of it you will see your color
rings will be the same distance all the way around

I purchase a Miller 180 tig machine bout 3-4 years ago never tig chromely with it, practice on some ms just to see what tiging is about did lots of brazing tho.




P.S that's not bad for a beginer

Racerx: Thanks. Practice, practice, practice.

Damn, look at you go boy.............lol! Nice job man........

yep....that's pretty good for someone that's self taut .

Looking good.

Looks great... now learn how to weld when you are
all out of position(like damn near upside down)LOL..
the biggest thing about welding is being comfortable
and being able to see the weld.... I have to get a new
cheater lens for my helmet.. mine has a few scratches
and of course they are right where they are in my sight

Thanks for the comments, guys. You're right Mr P. Have already been bouncing my head around the inside of the car welding up mounting brackets for the frame rails and tacking the cross members in place. I try very hard to maintain the 3 P's: 1)Practice (I try to simulate welds on scrap materials to get the right settings before the actual pieces are welded.) 2) Patience (Take my time, on small, thin materials, stop and cool down, maintain a clean electrode tip) 3) Pee before welding (Hey, I'm getting old. Not my fault. )