Controlling the filler rod has to be THE most difficult thing to learn. So, use your pedal to pulse.

Pedal down, wait for the puddle, dip the filler, pedal off
move ahead
Pedal down, wait for the puddle, dip the filler, pedal off
move ahead
and repeat for the entire weld.

This gives you better control over the whole process. Once you get good at it you can run a complete weld without pulsing the pedal. It doesn't come quick or easy !!

I run a defuser on my torch... it softens the flow

Stanton: I don't have a pedal. That's my whole point. Not an option on my machine.
Mr P: Is the diffuser part of the cup? Replaces cup? Seems like a good idea.

SO does your torch have a thumbwheel instead of a pedal??? MOst can be upgraded to a pedal. As said it aint a race and practice practice practice

Thumbwheel for gas, on/off with lock for power. No pedal upgrade available. Not the biggest problem. Lots of practice on the horizon. I also plan on making a jig and practice overhead tube joints before I attempt my cage. I plan on being very prepared.

Its a separate item that screws in the torch head..
they have them for most any torch.. you still maintain
the flow. its just softer... I run 20-22 on the flow also
which is about the best for being economical
EDIT
You REALLY should look to see if you can have a
pedal put on your machine... life is so much easier
that way

I run about 1 amp per thousandth of material plus 10 percent for pedal pulse, and about 12 to 15 cfh on the gas with #5 cup and gas lens. Like others have said practice practice and more practice.

Wow. #5 is small. Would fit real nice it tight places. Have to get me some of those.
What is the object of the larger cups. I have 6, 7 and huge. I'm sure everything has it's place, just haven't figured it out yet.

You REALLY should look to see if you can have a
pedal put on your machine... life is so much easier
that way

But the op. is learning to tig a cage would this be ideal to have welding a cage?

Smaller cups use less gas and will fit in smaller places also lens lets you stick the tungsten out a bit more so you can see it a little easier.

Yes they all have there place.. I have a box of
each size.. 5-10... If I'm using a small cup I
will usually use my smaller torch and bigger cups
with the bigger torch... I've got 4 torches to do
different things.. big to smaller and a straight one
that the tungsten goes up into the handle for working
in tight areas like in the bottom of intakes plenums
EDIT
Thats not counting the stubby back caps for each torch

When I weld a cage I use my knee for the pedal
or anything to get it done... if need be I will
set the machine so I go WOT on the pedal... but
I try not to do that.. thats a last resort

Like I've said, I've seen it done by experienced people. Plenty of reasons not to though. I've done it. I wouldn't even try now. Why handicap yourself on something where appearance and weld quality are so important?

IMO, TIG welding without a start/current control is like trying to drive a car in traffic with an on-off switch instead of a gas pedal.

Awkward positions, changes in current needed as you run a weld around a joint, being able to control the speed, rolling the current off instead of jerking the torch away, etc. on a complex chassis project? You have to use and learn how to use a pedal or thumb control on the thing.

I agree really need to control arc start and reduce amperage at the end of the weld. I have a thumb control for my machine but not coordinated enough to use it. Started with the foot pedal. It's a lot like switching to a transbrake and delay box after years of bottom bulb foot brake racing. LOL

OP ... What make and model is the machine ?

Question.. how do you hold the torch there for
the post purge of argon while the weld cools

I never use my peddle when I'm inside the cage welding. It's so much easy'r to use the scratch start option on my syncrowave 250.
Only time I use the peddle is when I'm at the work bench and it's an easy weld.

I never use my Mig anymore.

I have been tig welding for over 35 years and I still can't use the thumb control worth a damn. I have to use a pedal. I even do fine with somebody else mashing the pedal for me, but can't get the thumb deal right. When I have somebody else operate pedal, I set machine where even if they "floor it" I am good on heat. When welding cages, you get to be good at mashing pedal with elbow, head, arm, knees, whatever, but sometimes you just CAN'T do it and need an assistant.

On the test beads shown............you are trying to put too much filler in. You seem to think, as many do, that a tig weld needs to look like a mig weld and it doesn't. It takes very little filler

I just installed a microswitch on my torch so I can get into places where the pedal isn't convenient. The switch operates the 2T or 4T function. Being a microswitch its easy to operate with your index finger.

I'm using a Snap-On Muscle Mig 140 with a Flex Tig attachment. Settings are 50/90/105/150/160/175/190 amps, all at 100% duty cycle. Gas is set with a thumbwheel on the torch. At the end of the weld, I just turn off the switch or pull back until the arc goes out, and wait until the glow goes away. Yeah, until I get the hang of it, it seems to feel like it needs more filler. Trying to adjust how much filler is required as I follow the puddle will come with more practice, I guess. Something in your head just says "Add more rod". Probably because that's the way mig welding works.