Rocker arms are a common sore point for first time Mopar engine builders! Lots of snake oil and crappy parts and stuff that doesn't fit. It is a minefield for the newby. My Mopar big block book has a chapter on valve trains. If you read that section you might be able to save yourself some grief.

I bought the book and it's packed full of good info, well worth getting your hand's on a copy.

hptuner,
I copied/pasted this thread to a word document and printed it so I could scribble in additional notes, highlight certain points, etc.. As Andy F indicated, it's all in here. The thread is very informative and has been beneficial in helping order all the right parts.

Thanks

This is not pleasant news. Have you talked to TF about this?
I pulled out a 906 head, and the intake ports are symmetrical to the bolt holes within ~0.010", using a caliper. I will assume that the original drawing has them symmetrical within some tolerances to the datums.
I have measured Edelbrock intakes which are much farther off than that. I just measured a Six Pack intake and the ports to bolt hole measured 0.050" different, between front and rear pairs.

But, I would expect a part that is CNCd to be within a few thousandths, front to rear, from port to bolt hole, and only that much because I would give ~0.005" true position tolerance on the tapped holes, if they were drilled.
The CNCd ports should be within 0.001" of whatever datum was used for setup. 0.032", if correct, sounds like an error in production somewhere.

If you don't have any more information, I will certainly give TF a call before I buy.
Robert

Dwayne's cam picked up another 10 hp so the engine is now making 685 hp at 6500 rpm. Getting close to the 700 mark. I'm going to ship the intake off to Wilson for porting and I have another Dominator on order. Not easy making power on these pump gas engines!

The intake manifold gasket issue is a bit of a pain with the TF heads. The TF heads are fully ported so the intake manifold gaskets need to be perfectly located or else they overhang the ports. All I can say is if you're trying to make maximum power with these heads you will be spending a lot of time trying to figure out how to get the intake and the gaskets lined up. If you're just bolting it together for a street engine then don't worry too much, a little overhang one way or the other isn't going to cost you much. But a 700 hp an intake gasket hanging into the port can easily cost 10 or 15 hp.

Well, I'm glad to hear my cam wasn't the low hitter

How I would work around the port alignment issue is to just get away from the OE valley pan gasket. Slightly widen the port opening, and raise the roof a little to allow you to tweak the openings on the manifold to match.
It would require disassembly of the heads, but on a race engine that's not really a big deal.

For a typical s/s deal, just bolt them on and don't worry about it.
As is shown, Andy is making 685hp on pump gas with the mismatch in place.

Almost 700HP on pump gas using a std. port opening head that retails for under 2K!!!!
Now when the MW TF head shows up 750 should be a nice goal....
Brian

Dwayne have you done any extra port work to these heads yet, do you think there is room for improvement? Max wedge style ports?

I didn't read this whole thread, what heads are you running? Do they require standard rockers or offset rockers?
I have a rule with my motors, buy Harland Sharp rockers and never worry about them! But I do know that the offset rockers are considerably higher in price.

Bob I believe they are the standard rocker arm setup as I only been keeping up with Dwayne and Andy post on this thread

"Knock, knock, knockin' on 7's door..."

What rockers do you have now? What is the problem with them? You likely don't need different rockers, and it has nothing to do with snake oil, or what brand of rockers, necessarily. Proper set up is key to any rocker working the way it should. Don't get frustrated with your first Mopar build. Just do your research, and use common sense to separate the gems from the nonsense.

Then I would definitely just buy Harland Sharps and be done with it. B3RE has a nice rocker geometry setup also that would be nice to try.

Anyone who has had their hands on a new TF head take any runner measurements to come up with a MCSA #?

I didn't probe the ports on the set I had here, but they looked fairly roomy inside the intake port. I would suspect the min csa is at the pinch.

I don't think there is any "easy" cfm to be gained with a minor tweak. I could be wrong, and I'm sure someone will do just that and then we'll all know.
There looks to be plenty of meat to make them MW size.
On some heads that really wakes them up(EZ), some it doesn't really do anything(std Victor, SR)unless additional porting is done along with making the port opening bigger.

I didn't check the runners but the port opening is right at 2.80 sq inches. Not a really big port size. I have some SB Chevy heads here with bigger ports. The SBC heads flow 370 cfm!

Here are some pictures that show the port location in respect to the bolt holes. As you can see the port pairs are closer to the outer bolt holes (ruler is metric btw) but they are moved an equal amount left and right. Therefore the ports of both heads still line up.
I was a little worried when Dwayne said that only one pair of ports is shifted but that's not the case.

The paper intake gaskets from the Fel-Pro 1215 valley pan kit line up very nice on my set of heads. The gasket opening is even to slightly larger then the head port opening.