Thanks for the info Andy.

Thanks Andy for the answer .
Would you consider trying a solid ft cam ? I know they give up some power but as these are not a "race" head would this not help the majority of users of this type of head .
I know i might be a Luddite but i am happy to use a cost effective ft cam

Tex

has it been determined what head studs or kit is going to be used with these heads.

I found that flat tappet cams were just too expensive for me to use so I switched to roller cams for my dyno engines. I'm already on the third cam in this engine so that would be a lot of lifters if I was using a flat tappet. Plus if you eat a lifter the entire engine needs to be rebuilt which is a couple of weeks of downtime as well as $2000 in parts.

I agree that a flat tappet setup is less money for a "one and done" street engine, but I can't afford to do engine R&D with a flat tappet cam.

Thanks Andy ,
yes I do understand for R&D a roller is simpler . Thanks again for your input .

Tex

TF has a stud kit listed on their website. The TF kit wasn't available when I built my engine so I made my own stud kit using ARP parts.

Thank's Andy, I had seen a TF number but didn't know how it corelated with ARP's number's, I will check it out.

From Page 7 of the thread: Complete Head Bolt kit is ARP 145-3609...if opted for over studs.

I am going with stud's and as far as I can tell it is 145-4206 kit w/12pt nut's, if you want stud's w/hex nut's it is 145-4006.

Those part numbers are for RPM heads. The center studs will be too short to work on the TF heads. I think we already covered this topic back on page 4 or 5 of this thread.

Andy, did you check to see if any aluminum valley covers work or are close enough to modify to work with the TF heads?

No I didn't. I use a bathtub type valley pan when running std port heads.

Do you ever have to "port" the bathtub valley pans?

Mine had a little overhang on the outside edges of the ports on my CNC ported stealths.

Well it is getting close to that with these TF heads. I'm considering making my own valley plate so I can just run paper gaskets between the intake and the head. I haven't quite figured out how to do it yet so I'll stare at it some more.

It is possible that the bathtub is costing me some power. There is a slight bit of overhang in a few areas but it isn't much.

I opened mine up a bit with the dremel.

Andy years ago after we decided what intake we liked and were going to stick with we would weld a plate across the bottom of our big block intakes. I wish I had one left to post a picture but its not that hard.

Same here........

Me too!

Picked up Fel-Pro Part# 1215 (Kit: High Performance Valley Pan, 4 Intake Gaskets and Distributor Gasket/O-Ring). Haven't installed yet but just laying in place it appears any trimming would be miniscule.

Have done this before but had a problem because I made it from thin Aluminium, with vibration it broke the seals on the block ends. So if your going to make one use about 1/4 ali.