Monte,

Based on your quote above how would your wire your start circuit? Cable/wire size etc. matt

Understood, and my first 1/8th mile outing after the wt. removal and only one batt. sucked and spun like never before but still went 6.20 at 111+ mph so ya I need more seat time but again, too fast for a bar so,..........

I run a Braille, weighs 17#. I've had it about 2 years, street and strip.

Same one I am running for two years now.
The first one conked out on me after sitting too long disconnected in a modestly cold garage. I put a tender on it and it came to life, but never was the same ever again.
I was then told by Braile techs that it should sit no longer than 3 months and then put a Braile tender on it to keep it topped off. They also said that usually when disconnected, they will hold for longer, but still good to top off and keep fresh.
I used to have a US Post office truck battery in its place that weighed close to 65 Lbs.

I like quality 00 cables, with GOOD ends on them. Although I hate it, many insist on grounding the battery to the frame. If you choose to do that, you also need to run a 00 ground cable TO the starter, or at least the engine block, directly from the battery. On the HOT side, I also run 00 cable to a quality starter solenoid, such as a constant duty liftgate solenoid and then 00 from that to starter motor. People need to remember that factory starter solenoids are not rated for constant duty and are also not rated to crank your high compression motor. Do you need a constant duty........NO, but they are better quality and rated for more amp draw.......Another place where big cables, do no good if the solenoid won't pass the juice. The entire starter system needs plenty of flow from hot to ground, with no restrictions or loss of amperage...........It's NOT about voltage. A 00 cable and a speaker wire both carry 12 volts, only one of those will crank your car though

Monte.
R u saying that a 00 ground cable stretching all the way from the negative side/ground of the battery in the trunk and ran all the way to the front to either the starter or the block?

Or are you referring to when the battery is mounted up front in the stock tray position and closer to the starter/engine block?

They don't get any lighter than this and they will start a 720ci aircraft engine several times before needing charging.

http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.co...2&keyType=P

I know my starting system is wired correctly and
I WONT pay pay BIG bucks for a battery.. I'll deal
with the few pounds extra from the battery and loose
the weight elsewhere..the street rod is 2920 with me
and 18 gals of fuel and a real battery that was $43
at Costco... if I want less weight.. I'll run 3 gals
of fuel instead of 18 gals... even then I most likely
wouldnt run that low because I'm too lazy to add fuel
every run..... but to each their own if that floats
your boat

Yes sir

If you can't run the ground cable to the starter itself, mount it as close as possible, and on the same side as the starter. Electricity flows through some very strange places at times. Also run redundant grounds from the engine block to the frame, and battery to the frame. I use a minimum of 10 ga. wire, but prefer 8 ga. for these.

This how mine is wired. A faulty on/off switch will screw the whole thing up as I experienced last year, but there are less places to look when wired this way. On the Racepac, my voltage and amperage never fluctuates unless something rattles loose, or something breaks like the On/Off switch.

I wired my latest car this way. It starts better then any car I have ever had with just a 12 volt system. I'm a believer. I also didn't use any chassis grounds either. I had a couple junction blocks on the big battery cable and tied everything back to it. All electronics ground back to the battery. Then if using an alternator and trunk battery use a cable. I see people make the mistake of having a battery in the trunk, and alternator up front and using a 10 guage wire to connect them.

The problem lies with the fact that a LARGE percentage of guys simply do NOT understand electricity and how it works. They do not understand the ENTIRE circuit has to be up to the task and that the ENTIRE circuit includes the ground side.

I see NICE cars all the time with a 3 dollar, 4 gauge cable from Auto Zone, that runs from the battery to the chassis and that's IT for ground. The guy is scratching his head wondering why it won't start and nothing works right.

Many have NO idea how a relay works, why you need one, or even what it is........much less how to wire the durn thing. It's pitiful.

I covered in another thread, that the chassis is about the WORST thing you can use as a ground, yet guys continue to do it..........why? Because of the proliferation of "old school" guys who come and say "well, I have done it that way for 40 years and had zero problems".........whatever, fine, good for you, but what works and what works better are two different things. I can get my clothes clean beating them on a rock, but a washing machine works better

What Monte says is correct. Modern cars are so electrical dependent that they require multiple grounds along the length of the chassis.There are many modules along the length of the car that perform electrical "TASKS"and need their own ground. Have you looked at the + and - cables that come off the battery. They are not 1 or 2 gauge more like 4 or 6. Many of these cars have electrical problems that show up as mechanical/computer issues but most are ground related. Cars now have bus'( traffic lights that control the flow of computer info) that control the micro pulses of all the computers that run everything including the heater control valves and air supply dams. You would think that all those engineers would know better Remember that a car is a device that uses electricity to produce a function and rides on 4 very large rubber insulating blocks. Now back to the battery question. For stock eliminator, you must keep a battery in the factory location in the engine bay. I don't remember what size but any parts store will give the info for a battery that is used in a Honda. Smallest, lightest and cheapest.

A buddy of mine has been after me to move my battery to the trunk of my Dart for some time now. Unless something changes when the new engine goes in I don't see it's worth the trouble and expense. I run a group 24 and have never had any start issues. I would like to upgrade the charging system though.

The one thing most are not grasping here is.. once
you start the car.. you can throw that battery away..
each component needs its own ground so they can talk
to one another... the alt runs the car and recharges
the battery after the start... put a GOOD alt on it

Monte, I know before you have said that you have nothing in the trunk of the GN. where do you have the battery? I'm really thinking about putting a light weight in and moving it back near the front but...then there is no master cutoff unless you run the wires all they back to the trunk anyway

Mount the switch up front and use a LONG Morse cable to the back. Works great, no long cables needed.

Batt is in pass side floor, as close as I could get it to firewall. Pro-Lite, weighs 9lbs. The master disconnect is mounted inside car as well, with a lever on it that Chad can reach from the seat. Also has a very light Morse type cable that run to back to satisfy the "push" switch rules

Another pic............don't have one of switch