Nice car , any more info you care to share ? More photos . Thanks Gary

Lot of nice info on here.Thanks for sharing.I'm mocking mine up.I just want a street able combo.I have a 470 with 6.535 rods .610 lift, 248/254 @.050 solid roller with Mrl lifters.Going to try a RPM intake and a Victor and M1.Going to run E85 950cfm.It gets hot here in Texas and am having problems when it gets in the upper 90's with my 440 cid!

I took the time to pull out the reverse engineering tool box and measure the location of the TF ports. Turns out that TF doesn't put the ports in a symmetrical location in regards to the bolt holes. The intake gasket as far as I can measure is symmetrical with respect to the bolt holes. One pair of ports on the TF head are shifted over by about 0.032 when compared to the other pair of ports. It is just enough that the gasket doesn't line up correctly.

I would like to either borrow or find the source for said "reverse engineering toolbox".

I was just thinking? how much power would be made if the compression was dropped too say 8:1 and a procharger was added keeping the boost @ or near 10-15lbs?

enough to break a stock block?

Even with a girdle? Those little SB chebbys and fords seem too be holding up...

Andy's example is pushing close to 700 NA...boosted combinations are generally slightly more forgiving than NA, but power potential increases ALOT...

Stock blocks are safe to 700 or so, see the most recent girdle thread:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post1990062

The general consensus is if you think you need a girdle, you might as well step up to an aftermarket block.

This is what I never understand, ask a MoPar guy on here how much a stock block can handle and they will tell you 600 HP. Ask a Chevy guy and they will tell you small and big blocks can take anywhere from 800-1000 HP. I have trouble believing that, and its not a "I'm a MoPar guy so I think they're better" thing. Look at both blocks and tell me which appears stronger, besides the fact that the MoPar stuff has geometry and slower piston on its side. I was also under the impression that Chrysler blocks were cast of a better content iron, but I'm not really sure. Don't get me wrong, I believe the Chevy stuff is pretty durable, much more so than the BOP stuff, and its obvious when you look at the stuff and hold it in your hands. But i'd really just like to get a real, unbiased answer and explanation as to why.

And the Ford stuff don't even get me started, 10 head bolts?!

I am wondering has anyone installed them and found the Quirks , like how much longer the pushrods needs to be than stock , will stock head bolt lengths work, those are the questions that I have of course lengths need to checked but they must know approx. how much longer the pushrods should be for a starting point. I will getting my pair ordered on my next trip to the machine shop. I have been waiting for these for a while ( like most of you) but do we really need to buy Trick flo bolts if we have new ARP's on the shelf ? Im so exited about getting them on I want it to be easy LOL .

The pushrod length will vary depending on the rockers, milling on the block, cam and lifter choice etc.

My pushrods varied by .75" just going from solid, flat tappet to hydraulic roller with my Stealths.

I use a Trickflow adjustable "mockup" rod to get precise length pushrods and order them from Manton.

Yes that has all been sorted out and answered in this thread. You need longer pushrods, the center row of head bolts has to be longer and you need rocker arm studs that are all the same length.

Yea, I'm in the same quandary..... I thought that centrifugal blowers ramped up the boost as the rpms climbed much like a turbo so they were softer on the bottom end parts? What am I missing? The boost doesn't just slam in like a nitrous system does.

The cross-bolted production Hemi and especially the aftermarket big Mopar blocks are substantially better than the standard 2 bolt block. In my opinion the Chevy style 4 bolt main block styles are even better from an engineering standpoint. A stud girdle simply doesn’t upgrade a block to the equivalent of a cross-bolted or 4 main block.

While abrupt “hammering” type loads are harder on parts, there is point where even a “smoother” load is too much. There just isn’t enough material or fasteners in the bottom of a stock 2 bolt Mopar block once the power reaches a certain point.

If I could go back in time and there were one thing I could change on a stock big block Mopar it would be the main cap arrangement and the associated weakness. If there were 2 things I would spread the bores.

Well after a month and a half wait my heads showed up this morning, these things are works of art, now it's time to get the block off to the machine shop.

The stock 440 blocks can and do have main web cracking problems above 600 HP, probally dependent on the tuner and driver
The regular 1972 and later thicker main web 400 blocks can handle a bunch more than that. The very rare 400 "230" casting # winter blocks with the extra thick main webbing can handle a bunch more than the later 400 block do
A new 4 main bolt race block for seruios builds is the best choice

Now someone needs to start casting up blocks.. I could
use a 340 based SB like the R-blocks.. all sorts of
heads out there and not a block to be had

Installed cam #3 today. This cam is a custom grind from Dwayne using Comp HXL and HXX lobes. 264/268 duration with .446/.445 lobe lift. Should have it on the dyno by the end of the week and we'll see what she does.

Also have a modified carb coming from Mark W. I sent him my Holley 950 to have annular boosters installed. We're thinking that the annular boosters will work better with the low RVP unleaded gas and cold temps. So I'll compare that carb to the 850 and 1050 carbs that I've been testing with.

Im sending back the rocker arms I have and looking for some other ones.This is my first Mopar and its turning into a pain. I was looking at some Hugues 15203.I'm building a mild roller 470 and don't wanna spend 1200.