Yeah, I usually preheat also, especially with all the rain we got around here lately. It's amazing how much water comes out of the metal.

Once you get the Argon if the tungsten still burns up the polarity is wrong. I am getting ready to redo the chassis in my Cuda. Mine has 2x3 frame and strut front kit was from Chassisworks from the early 90's. It doesn't fit to my satisfaction. I am going 4130 25.1G spec. I would not use 2x3 rails again in a race car.

What didn't fit for you? I'm waiting on a set of side exit headers so I can mock up the right frame rail width that I need. So far, everything looks a whole lot better than the stock frame rails that I have, now. I'm looking forward to running a straight shot back to the rear panel. Probably around 30" wide outside to outside. It will also allow me to go with a 16" wide slick, too. Not that I need it, but nice to have the extra room.

The cage was bent to clear a stock dash so the A pillar bars are too far away from the body and I don't like the way it looks. My rear frame rails are 28" outside to outside with a 33 x 17 slick. Your front rails probably will not be the same width as the rear. With struts and round tube they will end up around 22 1/2" center to center. The rod ends on the control arms with struts should be close to the width of the rack inner tie rod pivots.

It's lanthinated tungsten, good for about anything. And no radium !!

Thanks. Will put it on my shopping list.

thank you

To add excitement to any air travel, pack an extra thorium electrode in your baggage before you leave for the airport. You will be the star of the show.

I have enough tungsten 2% to last me the rest of my
life and probably someone elses life... I think I
have 10 full boxes and 2 partial boxes... plus the few
that I use as scribes... plus I have 1 box of green tips
but I forget the % on them

Try one, you'll sell what you have now

Green is pure tungsten for aluminum.

.120 DOM or .083 ChromeMoly. .134 ERW is the really cheap way out. Personally, I won't waste my time with it. Same with kits. Custom fit by someone who knows how to do it, is going to make a much nicer result. Don't do the frame ties/frame rails/floor half @$$ed either. That's the foundation for the whole chassis.

Using an old tombstone welder and scratch starting can be done. I've seen experienced people do nice work that way. But you really need to keep the tungsten clean and be able to control the heat. A joint on round tubing in a cage needs to have the heat varied as you run around the joint. Hand control or a pedal, personal preference.

I will either drop the cage through the floor if it's pretty simple or take the roof off if it's complex. I don't want to be aggravated trying to weld up against the roof and/or trying to get a nice fit anymore. I want the bars out tight and I'm not as flexible as I used to be.

Use X's and triangulation rather than straight bars when possible. Much stronger with no additional weight.

TIG welding on a table while you are learning is quite different from doing it twisted up inside a car on round tubing.

I like to run a propane torch flame around the area before welding; as much to preheat a little bit as to clean off the last bit of any remaining contaminants and moisture. Especially on something like a rear end housing.

Keep the A pillar bars out of the windshield. You'll wish you would have the first time you try to see the tree in the right lane.

Get a rulebook or copy of the spec you are building for. Many of the questions being asked are answered there.

I'll try them but I wont sell my 2% stuff... I've
been welding with these for about 40 years now and
I'm very use to them and how they act.... also..
for guys that weld alum.. most guys dont ball the
tip on the tungsten.. if you use reversed polarity
with a brass plate.. hold the tungsten vertical and
hit the pedal... it will instantly put a perfect ball on
the electrode.. makes for welding alum very easy since
the electricity will roll in a circle around the electrode

My old door bars left me with real good visibility, but they were in front of the dash. When I mock up, I know pretty much where I want the new bars. My hoop is a little narrower than I would like. I see lots of areas where a custom bent setup would benefit. Taking my time, measuring everything. Really leaning towards a strut setup with c/m.

Picked up a tank of Argon. Also got some tungsten electrodes. Airgas recommended an E3 electrode (purple tip). They said no radiation, easy start, welds all metals. Are these good? They might be starting a leasing program soon. Was thinking about a Lincoln Diversion if the price is right. They have in house financing for purchase (third party bank loan), but has to be over $5,000. They said the Diversion is around $1,800. I'm going to pester my rep for a discount.

"They said no radiation, "

Say what?

I have not heard that is problem in normal use, am I wrong?

Either no radiation or not radioactive. Something like that. Some of the guys on here who are proficient welders can probably explain this. I don't think it's a high amount at all, but it still is a concern.

I never heard anything about radiation while tig welding. Should I be worried since I tig welded at my last job for 21 years?

I don't think so. Supposed to be negligible in dosage. Has to do with the Thorium.

http://www.iem-inc.com/information/radiation-sources/useful-radioactivity/welding-rods

D-50 , some day your a goner for sure.

LOL... I dont glow yet.. been tigging now for at least
40 years... but we will all go someday .. that amount is
so small I dont even know if it would register on a meter