Guys, I have a 408 with a hardblock half fill that will be in a mostly street driven car, I want to run a standard belt driven style of water pump (not electric) its not on a motor plate. I know the std water pump has some space behind the impeller that some mods can be done to improve water pump flow etc, does anyone have a pump recomendation and any mods to suggest that will give me the best option for a streeter with a half fill block please.

Factory pump for A/C... it has a 8 blade pump VS
a 6 blade pump on the non A/C cars.. a good flowing
elec fan and shroud
EDIT
It will most likely need a oil cooler.. get a large
one.. that oil temp puts heat into the coolant system
also
Also.. you can add a plate to the back of the pump
fins and it acts like a anti spill plate.. some pumps
come with it... just cut a thin plate round and tack
it to each fin.. make sure its centered

Check out flowkooler pumps.

all of the above! You want to start with an oil temp gauge first, just to see where you are at. Drill and tap the drain plug and put one in. 8 blade pump with mods are always good. Stick with stock crank pulley size also.

Just buy the Milodon pump and forget it. You don't have to screw with it.

I have never run an oil cooler. All they do is add restriction to an already restricted system. If you have 8 quarts of QUALITY OIL oil in the pan and your cooling system is correct, an oil coller is not needed.

FWIW you need FLOW. So do NOT run pullies that slow down the water pump. What you lose in HP with the WP you can gain back in better ignition timing and a cooler engine.

Edelbrock makes a very nice pump for smallblocks

Dizusters turbo car runs an Auto Zone pump and a oil cooler. Filled block drives anywhere.
Doug

Water temps do not become an issue with a filled block, it is oil temps that will increase. There was no difference in my water temps before or after I half filled my block. I run the Edelbrock hi flow mechanical that was given to me years ago and so far so good.

That said, if you want to control oil temps on the street, I recommend an oil temp gauge in the pan and a GOOD synthetic oil. I ran Brad Penn with an external filter (7liters of oil) and switched to regular filter on block with Mobil 1 15W50 synthetic (6 liters of oil) and noticed a 20-30 degree difference in oil temps, plus a much better ability to control temps, not to mention an additive package that won't break down at the temps Brad Penn did. My advice- good synthetic oil!

So mshred, your saying you dropped 20-30 deg by changing oil and ditching the remote oil filter?

My car was fine with the filled block on water temp. Nothing special on the water pump as dvw mentioned. It was even OK on oil temp until I added the engine diaper, then the oil temp was uncontrollable.

I added the remote oil cooler with the sandwich type adapter between the filter and block. Works great and bearings looked good when I tore it down this fall.

Fantastic info guys, I have a remote filter set up with dual return feeds into the front and rear of the block somewhat like the R blocks so should I need to run an oil cooler it won't be difficult

PUT AN OIL TEMP GAUGE ON IT FIRST. Otherwise, it's guess-o-matic time. A good quality synthetic oil will handle 250* without a problem ( per Royal Purple ). I run about a 3/4 fill in my 408. 1 pass and I am at 212*. Have no idea what it would line out at on the street for an extended period of time. Every engine / build is different so don't rely on what this or that guy said. Put a guage on it and run it for a while.

Ok, can do and will do

Maybe I should rephrase- it still reaches the same eventual temperature, but it takes MUCH longer to get there, and even once it reaches that temperature, it can come down from it MUCH better with the synthetic oil. Once its hot, if you idle a lot it will increase the oil temps, but if you get steady airflow from driving to hit the oil pan, it helps big time in cooling things down. I can get it from 230-240 to 200-210 degrees just from getting some air to it for a bit, and it will stay there afterwards....could never do that with the Penn oil

Like Crizila said, get a guage on the pan first and run a good synthetic, you may find you dont need need a cooler or anything of that sort. Just my 2 cents and I thought for sure going back to a block mounted filter under h ot headers was going to make things worse, but it didn't. I truly believe the synthetic oil is what made the biggest difference and me personally I ditched the remote filter setup as I just was not a fan of pumping oil further then it had to be from the block, even if it did increase overall oil capacity.

Thanks, makes sense, I have to remote mount my filter due to my oiling system return line split, that said I can probably mount it close to the original if I'm worried at all

Is a HAlf fill above the freeze plugs or Below? Is anyone filling these through the freeze plug holes or is the only way to do it through the 2 large holes on the deck surface?




I wanna fill this bone stock 360 without pulling it apart.

Mine was filled from the deck, freeze plugs in, to just below the water pump hole in the front of the block.

Damn, guess I'll yank the heads off and pour it in that way.


What kind of consistency do I want with this embeco 885?

My street racers been a half fill with a crs pump for eight years, no oil cooler needed but its limited miles and short distances.



80 Volare, not to step on the topic, but do a bit of research on your half fill.

You might find to get the results of doing a half fill you should pull your motor for many reasons.

You could probably just dump it in like you want but the end result might be little benefit without doing it the proven way.

Yep.. I agree... I leveled my block front and back
and level on the deck... I put a torque plate on it
to proper specs.. let it dry a couple of days then
set up the other bank the same way... lots of tamping
and banging on the side walls of the block with a plastic
mallet to get it all settled in place

The engine is out, and on a stand. It's a 150 dollar engine. I'm going to clean the jackets, level it and fill it from the deck, slap it back together and see how much it will take.

Are you gonna street drive it.. if not then go
higher on the fill

Yes. I'm thinking just lower then the water pump holes, will be fine.

What radiators are your guys running that have half block fills?? I have only a 22" rad support, I want to run a 7 blade clutch fan

That will be about a 3/4 fill.

Guys is it worth also installing the steam vent lines from the back of the head/inlet manifold to the t/s housing on these half filled blocks? I have w2 closed chamber heads with a victor manifold

Never seen my water temp over 190. Remember, if you are replacing 2/3 of the water with hard block, whats left goes through the rad 3 times as often as before. Oil temp goes up, water temp goes down.

Crizila,you see in any crazy oil temps with it filled that high?

Oil temps are up for sure, but still well within the operating range of the oil I run - at the track. As I said, I have no experience over long periods of time on the street in hot weather. Half fill, you may have to go with an oil cooler. You will just have to try it and see.