Looking for some help on wiring up my car. Putting battery in trunk with kill switch. One wire altenator Msd ETC.

Run the positive to the master cutoff switch.

Make sure you use around a 200 amp disconnect switch if you are using it for everything. Some are rated like 20 or 30 amps and they fail.

Alternator wire goes to battery otherwise car keeps running when disconnect switch is shut off.

This one would be the minimum I would use.......

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-74101/overview/

Make sure you run large enough wire from the alt to
the battery based on the size of the alt and the
length you are running.. and yes it gets mounted on
the battery side of the shut master switch

hindsight, being what it is, I wish I would have used one of those "push/pull" levers and mounted the switch in the truck instead of putting a hole in the back panel of the car.

On the race car I did mount the switch inside with
the long lever but on the Rampage its mounted on the
bumper.. I dont like drilling holes in the sheet metal
unless its a MUST... you can see it on the right
side of the bumper
EDIT
A tip if you mount the switch with the arm on it..
set it up so you PULL the arm to turn it on.. if you
do it the other way(push for on) you can shut it off
IF the car launches hard.. just the weight of the arm
can turn it off

That's what I used. Flaming river makes a nice one. Mine is located just under the bumper and batt. charge plugs

Here's one way of doing it. This eliminates a hot wire running all the way to the front of the car when the disconnect switch is off.

One thing I did on the alt hot line was to put a
100 amp fuse at both ends of that lead.. just in
case it were to short out some how.. with both ends
fused if it shorted out anywhere on the wire it would
blow one of the fuses.. my alt is a 85 amp Denso

How about a 4 terminal switch like the one Speedway sells?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Four-Post-Battery-Disconnect-Switch,6967.html


I'm doing some re-wiring on the Savoy and I'm looking at this switch to replace the basic Moroso 2 post unit.

Gus

That switch works well.. just use the field wire on
the small terminals

Agree - I did the same.

Gus. I've also done that before. Since your going to run the field wire to the rear and back, you might want to up the wire gauge a bit. Another trick is to get rid of the push on connectors, modify the tabs for small nuts & bolts and use eyelet connectors for the alternator. The factory push on connectors seem OK but I'm still looking for aftermarket connectors that don't spread the first time you push them on.

Smart! Mines only fused on one end. Gotta change it.

Fused mine also....cheap insurance.

Don't forget to covert the stock Mopar amp gauge to a voltmeter, make sure it is activated off the ignition switch when running so it doesn't drain the battery when not running

A nice way to wire the 1 ga. starter is to use a rear solenoid so the big cable is only live when cranking! And when using a disconnect, just put it between the solenoid & battery (+).

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tm-1.shtml

I have a continues duty relay on mine mounted to the firewall. Its triggers from my ignition switch but its wires run through my 4 post disconnect. Works great.

I also did the starter solenoid in the trunk. I used a Jeep solenoid that works with the stock neutral safety switch.

I'm running a Denso Toyota alternator so I have to determine what wire I'm going to run back to the switch

Gus

It really doesnt matter.. one goes to key on side
for power and the other is the sense/exciter .. if
you have a third wire that is for the dash bulb if
it quits working