Is the 80 psi cold or hot?

Hot accelerating.

It is possible your distributor was not totally secure and moved on you.

I doubt a Cloys double roller would stretch enough for you to notice even at 40k miles. Disconnect your coil wire. Take the distributor cap off. Turn the engine by hand clockwise slightly until you notice the distributor rotor move. Mark the location of the rotor tip and the harmonic damper. Turn the crank the opposite direction and see how far it moves before the rotor starts moving. If you see movement almost immediately you do not have a timing chain issue.

Check your valve lash.

If you do not have any significant lash adjustments and your timing chain is good you may not have any real issue.

I would re-do the compression test, make sure the battery is charged, do the rear cylinders first. If you have access to the tooling a leak down test would not be a bad idea. If the rear cylinders are still low and you can't do a leak down test, do a "wet" test (tablespoon of oil in each) to see if it jumps up, if so that is a ring sealing issue.

I hope for your sake the distributor just moved and the only damage was to your shorts.

-Michael

A little on the high side but okay. Should be idling around 35-40. Don't want too much higher in that you begin to wash the bearings.

I've always used 20/50, would going with a lighter oil decrease the oil pressure and be better in general?

I wouldn't be afraid to go a slight bit lighter on the wt. EDIT with more thought YES I would go lighter

Do we know what the bearing clearances are? I assume you are running some type of zinc additive.

OK, so if ligher weight oil then 20/50, which one? 10/30?

Dart4forte, I have o idea on the bearing clearances. The engine was last rebuilt in 2003...

@68cuda440, I tried what you said. turned the motor one way, then the other watching the distributor rotor. On turning it back the reverse direction, the cap did not move initially. I didn't mark it but I can turn the crank a bit before the rotor moves at all. So I guessing it looks like the chain is loose.

[quote=]OK, so if ligher weight oil then 20/50, which one? 10/30?

On turning it back the reverse direction, the cap did not move initially. I didn't mark it but I can turn the crank a bit before the rotor moves at all. So I guessing it looks like the chain is loose. [/quote] I ain't an oil guy so I have no valid input but first I'd research & see if a straight wt or a multi is the best way to go. On the slop see how many degrees of play you get on the dampener AND there is/can be slop in the chain/gears and in the dist lower tang/intergear slot that it fits into & both need to be checked/dealt with as needed and they both add up in what you see at the rotor for movement with the crank being turned