Am I the only one that thinks having those heads milled for a compression boost is worthwhile? Is there enough squish/quench if milled .020 with a .039 gasket? 906 heads already have 0.100 in the shallow end, correct? Since it already apart... every little bit helps.

C'mon now. Nitrous or boost fixes lack of compression.

I'd have to see how much that would set me back to have the heads milled if it were worth it. Also would the intake have to be milled also?

don't waste time milling heads. if your going to do, go about .06 off the bottom and have them fix the intake side as well. you'll find that will cost about $300 for the pair. at that point i'd buy the sidewinder heads or something else. for the slight bump in compression you'll never feel it. not worth the money

Doesnt sound like it would be worth the money then. That would almost double how much im into the whole motor

300 to mill a set of heads is steep, but I know alot of shops charge more if you have them milled alot. Realistically you can get a set of 906s down to 74 CC without going crazy milling. If a shop will do it for $100 bucks thats worth it, as it'd bump compression around 3/4 of a point.

The cheapest thing to do is find a set of stock pistons from an earlier engine and swing them in. I've sold a couple sets from engines I've torn down.

One thing to keep in mind when surfacing Mopar BB Iron heads, alumunin heads also(differnt ratio for each brand ), is for each .010 you take off the cylinder head mating surfaces you need to remove .012 from the intake mating surface to keep the manifold aligned properly to the intake ports

and that's why the job costs about $300.00

First I would mockup first & see how far the intake bolt holes (or better yet the top/bottom alignment of the ports) are in the "V" above or below dead centered in the intake manifold bolt hole "tunnel". this way when they mill the deck(s) they can mill the intake face more or less than the prescribed (.012 for .010) amount (as needed) so you end up with dead on alignment. they'll do the math to effect the slope change amt & you're paying likely the same or close to it anyway. EDIT wouldn't hurt to mill the head intake face and the intake. You want NO vac leaks.

AT LAST someone else came in with the true costs of milling heads. Years ago I was quoted $180 to do a skim cut on a pair, but that did not include the intake faces. Now add the extra charges for the time to go 0.060, which is really a lot of passes at least on machines I know, and you may well be looking at $500 for the complete job.

BUT didn't the OP say way back in the thread that the heads have been milled a bunch? So isn't the whole "mill the heads" comment worthless?

The real way to increase power is to increase flow and the head swap is the best way to do that. We now have a sort of stairstep of heads, each with increasing cost and airflow. But as the Stealth heads are least or close to least cost and offer flows way above stock or pocket ported 906s or 452s or whatever, that's where I would start looking.

R.

Man, you guys just can't do this without spending a fortune, can you?

Degree in the cam, you have the stuff. Run the stock rockers. Bolt it together, bolt it in the car, have fun. Save your money for the big build you have planned.

A mild cam in a 440, in a dart, will be fun on the street. Your not drag racing, a couple of tenths of a second slower will not be noticed on the street, but the extra expense to save those extra tenths will be missed. It will buy a lot of gas! Gene

sell those parts and buy a whiplash for 165$, cheap and works with all the stock parts.

my 2 SB have never had the heads off, both whiplash rollers.

the 440 got a set of gaskets,hand lapped the valves,whiplash cam/springs/lifters under 400$

got 5000 miles on it now and it is nothing but fun with it in a daily driver.

just say'in

Boy, SFT, you sure got religion on those Whiplash cams!

R.

Isn't any magic in those whiplash cams. They have you wind it forward to close the intake valve early to make up for the low compression.

I'd use the mopar cam and advance it as far as you like as long as the exh lobe center isn't beyond 118. On a 110 LSA cam, that would be a 102 intake installed centerline.

I have degreed the last 3 cams I've put in my car, 1 Isky, 2 comps, and have always found them to be spot on where they should be when I start out "dot to dot".

The internet has a way of making the best way the ONLY way. Not degreeing a cam isn't the end of the world. If you have the tools and want to see what everyone's talking about, go for it, if not, you'll join with millions of others who have just lined the dots up with a ruler and everything has been fine.

You've been lucky three times, will you not check the next new cam you use? Bottom lines is there are hundreds of motors out there that are not running as best they could with after market cams do to the cam being retarded or advanced way more than it should because the owner either installed it straight up dot to dot and didn't want to check it or didn't know how to check the cam timing in the motor or who ever installed it( including a lot of regular automotive repair shops) didn't want to or didn't check the cam timing I've had a lot of motors that the cam timing would have been way off if I hadn't checked it. If I had aligned the dots and assumed that it was dead on I would have had a real dud OP always degree the cam in any of your motors I'm not the luckiest person here on Earth, I'm not the unluckiest either, so I check every cam I install I sleep a lot easier knowing exactly where the cam timing and valve to piston clearnces are

after yrs of cam swaps that do nothing but make a pig until 3500 rpm with a mix-matched of stock parts/intakes/carbs/headers.

it is nice to have a 165$ cam in a 300$ JY engine and have fun on the daily 100 mile grind too and from work.

I happy to have one work like they said it was going to. not a race cam for sure but in traffic and at the stop light I cant stop the ear to ear grin I have.