If someone is willing to to the work, I'm all for doing some home porting.
I did it for the first time 30 years ago.

I have been thinking of doing some porting myself, I actually like that kind of work and have done a lot of 2-stroke porting, but the problem is lack of time... and iron heads will need long hours
The valves are 2.14/1.81s
Weight loss is another reason I've been looking at alu.

Sell the iron heads and apply that money towards a better set of new aluminum heads Buy the best you can afford at the time of purchase

I think that's what I wanna do
but I'm still curious what you guys think what it will do in hp and ET's

We have no idea. It's that simple. You can guess-timate based on head flow, but since we don't KNOW what yours flow...who knows? Any of the aluminum heads "should" produce an improvement but how much is a crap shoot.

You absolutely cannot bolt on any better flowing heads on without a tune up change to see the entire potential of that change, also.

A set of great flowing aluminum heads are going to put a real smile on your face. WAG, three tenths in the 1/4? I also agree on the need for a much looser converter. If you think your best shift point is 6,000 I wouldn't be afraid to go as loose as 5500 stall. A very high stall is softer on the initial hit, but pulls harder on average through the run.

I like your car.
My 73 might be slightly lighter than your 72 (I've lightened it a lot, but it still has steel bumpers and stock doors and glass. It weighs 3510 with me in it. It has a little less compression than yours (11.4), and a little less cam (.585 Ultradyne flat tappet)
It runs approximately the same as yours:

7.32 1/8
11.45 1/4
1.55 60 ft.

I think mine might 60 ft better because I have 10.5 x 29.5 slicks.

Sorry, I got so involved with uploading the picture I forgot to include some points that may help, what did and didn't improve performance:

2.14 & 1.81 valves: Heads pocket ported and ports cleaned up
950 Holly on M1 intake (I had a 800 dp Holley before- the 950 is faster)
Turbo Action "J" 5000 converter...works better than the 4000 Coan it used to have
4.30 spool (4.56 did not change performance)
Cal-Tracs helped the car hook and leave consistently

It seems to me your getting good performance from your car, but I know what you mean, it's time for a little more thrill.....

I'm not sure what the duration is on that UD cam, but if you have an honest 11.4cr, I'd be looking for it to be in the mid/upper 260's to go along with that 5000 stall.

As for the OP heads, I've never dyno tested unported 906's with stock valve sizes vs 2.14/1.81 installed. I'm sure someone has done it, or done some in car testing, but what I have seen is that the flow numbers don't really suggest that the 2.14/1.81 upgrade is the hot ticket unless at least "some" blending is done.

My first 11sec combo, circa 1986.
440 with pistons .055 down the hole, home pocket ported 906's(when I bought a flow bench years later I tested them and found they flowed just under 240), racer brown stx-19 on a 105(in at 103)bought it at a garage sale for $20, original torker, 850 Holley, hooker 2" headers, Fairbanks 9" converter($200 at a swap meet, it was new), 4.56's, ss springs, 5/16" fuel line & pick up(original), mech fuel pump, flat hood, crank driven w/p, full interior, wipers, heater.
Went 11.60's at 116.
Swapped the cam for a crower solid that was like 248/254-110, in at 106, ran much "nicer", went 11.50's, but lost 1mph...... Went 115.

If you have the money i would get better heads and a converter.

I say that because i had a all steel 1973 dodge dart that weighed 3520 with me in it and ran 6.80 in the 1/8 at 102 mph on 93 pump gas. the engine was pretty close to yours except i had a better set of heads. here is what the engine had in it.
my compression came out to 10.8 and i have 184 PSI cranking compression.

.030 over steel crank 440
wisco pro-true forged flat top pistons i think around .006 in the hole
eagle rods
Dewayne of porter racing heads did a awesome job of selecting me a solid roller cam to go with the stock port Indy EZ heads i got from him.the cam is a roller version of the mopar 590 solid cam

cam comp solid roller 264 at 0.050 and 590 lift
i ran crane gold 1.6 roller rockers
Stock port Indy EZ heads. I ran out of money so Dewayne checked the valve guides ,ground the valve seats and did a very ,very light bowl port on them.
2 inch tti headers
wieand tunnel-ram with 2 750 dp Holley's
dynamic 9.5 inch stall converter that stalled round 4200.which was the wrong one for the cam i had, but i dint have the money for a good one at the time.
4.10 and 4.30 gears
M/T ET street drag radials. in 275/60/15 which is about a 28x9 slick
I let me friend drive the car at the time that weighed 100 pounds less than i do and he ran 3 back to back 10.49 in the 1/4

well before i sold the dart i put in a 8 inch ATI converter that stalled around 5400 and a 3.5 inch exhaust so i could drive it on the street. Man the car was a hole different animal, on the street it was a whole different car and i think with some tuning the dart would of ran some low 10.40 or high 10.30 in the 1/4. also i never did get to do much tuning when i had the 9.5 converter in the car so who knows how much faster it would of been. well sorry for such a long post, i think your car would run a lot better with a better set of heads and a converter matched to your engine set up. mopar65

Nice Charger!
Looks like I need better traction

How can you all be so fast?

Here's manufacturers flow chart. A friend flowed them and compared to his Edelbrock RPM's they flowed a little more. His RPM's are just cleaned up a little. Don't have his chart.

Thanks for your detailed answer!
I thought my 10" was loose, but the more I read your inputs I realize it's not.
I have sent SMR Transmission a quote, will be interesting what they'll come up with. I'll keep you posted.

Now I'm a little confused. This is the answer from SMR:

Thanks for your interest in the premium quality transmission products of SMR Transmissions and Converters specializing only in Chrysler products. We take great pride in the design and/or building of every transmission and converter to meet the specific needs of your application to provide the ultimate in reliability, performance and efficiency.

Having reviewed your tech sheet and the information provided, I recommend that we provide a 9 inch custom built, torque converter for your 20% street/80% strip '72 446 cu. in. Charger. With an operating range of 3200-7000 rpm, our custom built Competition Eliminator 9" will provide maximum torque multiplication at a flash stall* of 4200 rpm. without loss of high r.p.m. efficiency to maximize e.t. potential. Your shift points should occur at approximately 6900 rpm.
*flash stall occurs from a dead stop, full throttle launch - without tire spin and can only be determined by reading a data recorder or playback tach.

This custom built converter, is constructed with a special competition stator, the super duty forged steel drive hub (input shaft spline), inner and outer sprag races, heavy duty sprag, alloy drive tube, triple Torrington bearings, full furnace brazing, internal and external balancing, a Billet Steel front cover, pilot and mounting pads and much more, to provide maximum e.t. potential and superb reliability under the extreme that you will be subjecting it to.

With your current investment in quality components, this premium quality converter will allow you to obtain the maximum performance potential from your Charger while obtaining satisfactory street driving and allow you the enjoyment of having un-matched reliability.



Your Cost

SMR COMPETITION ELIMINATOR M/T 9 " Custom Built Race Converter as described $1,379.70



All prices are in U.S. currency, shipping charges extra.

Regards,

Pat Storey
SMR TRANSMISSIONS and CONVERTERS

Holy crap...no way that combo needs an almost $1400 converter!!!!!!!!

The one in my street/strip 1,000+ hp 8 sec car cost a little over half that.
Give Ultimate Converters a call.

I agree Lenny redid my 8 inch ATI in the 73 dart

I better buy three before they raise the price!

I'm waiting for a reply from Ultimate.

Okay, it seems like I have to keep my converter for a while...
This is what I got from Ultimate:

Hi Ulf, I would recommend our Billet 9.5 TF727 race converter for your application, approx. stall to be 38-4200. Great street manners also, it will drive very well on the street with no heat issues at all, but at WOT it will flash to the recommended stall speed, very quick and durable. This converter has a one piece billet front cover, furnace brazed and brazed on all the fin tips, triple bearing s, antiballooning flange on pump cover and alum stator with 8 element sprag. I also build these with billet stator and 10 strut Mechanical diodes. They come with a one year guarantee and one free stall adjustment , if needed. I build each converter myself per application, assuring you the right converter the first time, very important when going overseas. Your cost on the converter is $925, with the Mech diode set up, it is $1295 plus shipping. Thank you for your interest in Ultimate.

Thank You,
Lenny Croteau
Ultimate Converter Concepts
Phone: 704-892-6837

Check with PTC. They were extremely reasonable on the 9.5 I bought from them.

Have just filled in their spec sheet, thanks