MPH can be skewed by a lot of things un related to the engine also... aero dynamics, gearing, stall, chassis set up, driver... just to name a few. Dyno and flow bench are tools to help you get a better number at the track but if you don't know how to use them they are worthless just like a wrench if you don't know what to do with it.

This!! ^^^^^^^^^^

Peak HP and TQ only occuring 600 rpm apart? Any chance of valvetrain instability? Peak power I would expect a minimum of 1000 rpm more than TQ = 6700. I doubt it's the cam's duration. J.Rob

I don't think we have a valvetrain issue, at least I don't see or hear any signs of it. Torque peak is probably closer to 5300 than 5700. The last report I ran said 5700 but when I look at the numbers it looks like the peak is 5300 and then 5700 just had a little spike which might not be real.

Intake manifold vacuum starts to go back up over 6000 rpm so I think that is what I need to focus on first. Not sure if I'm running out of air or if the gauge is getting wacky on me.

Andy,can you please post as much info on that build as possible???
Looks very interesting???
Thank Nick

It is just a bracket motor type build with some upgraded parts. 10.5 shelf pistons from Diamond, 6.70 long Chevy rods, 3.91 crank (SCAT Superlight). I'll be running a big solid solid roller so I went with the Jesel front drive kit (belt drive and belt driven distributor). Trick Flow heads right out of the box, a Victor intake (or Mopar M1 4500) and a 850 DP carb.

The Superlight crank is a little higher end part than most guys use as is the Jesel front kit but neither of those items are "exotic". Just stuff that the typical bracket guy doesn't spend money on.

I haven't sorted out the camshaft yet. The first one I tried might be a bit too big for this engine so I'll try a smaller one next. The pump gas compression makes the cam choice a little more difficult.

I checked the net lift with the full spring load and there doesn't appear to be much flex. Gross lift is .690 but actual net lift with 0.015 cold lash is .680. So that tells me that the rocker arms are a touch more than the 1.50 adv ratio. With the checking spring and no lash I was getting around .694 so there doesn't appear to be much flex at all.

andy f,so your saying the jesel belt drive is the best choice,dont the belt has to be changed every year

Looks like those rockers are quite rigid. Be nice if they started making those again.

Another steel rocker besides comp would be nice! I contacted ras a couple weeks ago and they said they will have another rocker out for us soon.

Nice indicator set-up!

From what I have heard.. I dont know for fact.. but
TD is making steel rockers also.. I dont know what
they fit or if they are making for BB or SB

MPH will never be calibrated beyond what it is. Factors causing it to be low yes, but not high.
Doug

I like to use a belt drive when using a big solid roller. The belt drive provides a solid thrust adjustment, it works well with the crank trigger, it provides a simple way to mount a belt driven distributor and it makes it easy to adjust/change the camshaft.

Andy; what rockers do you have on those haeds? I see that you have mopar valve covers? Thanks

Rocker arms are from RAS. Yes, I have MP covers but I don't really like them. I'm going to make my own covers since I'm tired of messing around with stuff that doesn't fit right.

Do you think Andy that with T&D rockers those rocker arm covers will work? Thanks

What brand and size of studs are those for the valve covers? Are those Moroso Gaskets?

I have a set of these heads coming to Australia for a mild 440 build.
Thanks for all the info Andy.

ARP stainless steel valve cover studs. Moroso valve cover gaskets.