|
Re: Correct sound deadner and wheel well undercoat
[Re: Neil]
#195551
01/18/09 04:32 PM
01/18/09 04:32 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,938
California
1970mopar
master
|
master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,938
California
|
Quote:
It's suprisingly easy to duplicate the factory undercoating appearance. All it takes is to not care what it looks like and your sure to get it right.
After a few beers its even better! 
|
|
|
Re: Correct sound deadner and wheel well undercoat
[Re: 1970mopar]
#195553
01/18/09 04:54 PM
01/18/09 04:54 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,033
Southeast Virginia
68jim
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,033
Southeast Virginia
|
Quote:
Quote:
It's suprisingly easy to duplicate the factory undercoating appearance. All it takes is to not care what it looks like and your sure to get it right.
After a few beers its even better!
You're absolutely right. The first wheelwell I took my time. Sprayed a little - moved the light - sprayed a little - moved the light...you get the idea. Overspray on the framerails, brakelines, gas tank wasn't so much as intentional it pretty much is a function of how that gun shoots out. The learning curve is quick. By the time I got to the last wheelwell it was pull the trigger once and let-r-rip. That stuff has a nasty smell until it cures. You want a respirator while shooting and plenty of beer afterwards.
Jim
|
|
|
Re: Correct sound deadner and wheel well undercoat
[Re: 1970mopar]
#195556
01/19/09 10:32 AM
01/19/09 10:32 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,301
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
|
master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,301
West Coast, USA
|
Quote:
RESTO RICK or Frank Badalson/Roger Gibson - they both sell what is agreed is the most correct undercoating.
obtaining the correct finish when applying comes down to the application process.
I used Resto Rick's and the shultz gun stuff too. Great results, but still not quit able to get the heavy, super-course build-up look the factory presure fed system left in some spots. The thick portion of the pattern was from when the spray guy moved his hand too slow, or was too close and sprayed too much material. I probably could have sprayer a few more gallons under my car as I attempted to better, perfectly matched the remaining, intact stuff under the car, but I feel Ricks is just a bit too thin. Probably would'nt spray well out of the Shultz gun if it was thicker. Knowing the little I know about Rick, he is probably able to do it perfectly, adn I just didn't have his talent on this job, but I got close enough.
A pressure fed- airless system with a huge tip would probably be able to match it perfectly. The kind they spray elastometric sealants with. The pump I remember was called a Bulldog. I have about 20 years of sraying with an airless in a previous life, and that's what the pattern looks like it was originally applied with, or some kind of a presurized pot pot with little or no air(a Shultz gun hooked up to a 2 gallon presure pot would work). With a system like that, I could have got a dead on match with the over-heavily sprayed areas using a slightly thickend batch of Ricks stuff. I just wasn't willing to invest the time and money to get that last 5% of perfection. If I had a business or several more to do, then maybe I would have gone there.
My fender wells still have the original stuff in them with the super thick texture, but the underside of my car about two feet out on wither side of the transmision tunnel was all softend and scraped up from years of oil mist etc soaking into it. I also added subframe connectors and had to scrape off some of the old stuff out to the door sills.
On a side note: Once I gave up on trying to create a museum piece, and decided to just do the best I can while restoring my car at home, I began to make a lot of progress. Trying to do things perfectly every time was leading to me getting nothing done. Once I gave up trying to have a perfect restoration, this labor of love became a lot more enjoyable and I'm a lot closer to getting it back on the road after 25 years. I've had the thing for 30 years, so it's about time I got to drive it again. Should be done in a few more months.
PICTURE NOTE: The lighter colored texture below the four-speed shifter opening and towards the engine compartment is original. The darker stuff is Rick's product. It's as close to perfect as you can get, unless you're trying to reproduce the super thick texture left here and there when the factory guy screwed up(not pictured). Once I sprayed the remaining original texture black to freshen up the look, it matched extreamly close to Rick's stuff. It's hard for the laymen to tell the diference between the two textures!
|
|
|
|
|
.jpg){kind=link}