You had the MOST power on the first run you say......and that is the ONLY one where it was close to going...........what's that tell you

The fronts are probably going to be way loose for a radial at that setting..........and depending on how Mark has your rears valved, that extension may be too tight

Thanks Monte I will add 5 more clicks on the front and loosen the extension another 3 clicks?

I run a Hyperkontrol, well at least about to try it.

Otherdodge, you are a 76mm Air to air Intercooler right?

How much boost are you running now down track to net you 133mph in your sig?

This is a 408" right?

What tire?

How many total clicks on the strange fronts?

How loose is the converter under full boost?

Just confirming, but I would bet you can leave on near full boost... My car is 54/46, weighs 250lbs more then yours, and has a 116" wheelbase. Same rear shocks, same size turbo... Mine will leave on that power level no problem.

You had the MOST power on the first run you say......and that is the ONLY one where it was close to going...........what's that tell you [/quote]

You treed me Monte!

Exactly... Needs a bunch more power!

Diz, yes 76mm, air to air.

It hit 14 at the top of third but mostly high 13's during the pass limited by the manual boost controller I had at the time.

It is a 389 (stroked 5.2. Was like that when I bought the truck, but wish it was a 408 because of the bore size for rings).

tire is a 315/60/15 Radial

For the front, it had been full loose on every run but will change it to about 10 clicks per Monte's advice.

The converter is a 3800 PTC.

I can probably get it to 10 lbs boost at the launch (never tried it). I was surprised that you could leave on that much boost from reading your previous posts! With some playing around, I will up the launch boost. My previous problem was initial stick but spin very soon after. I didn't realize that was a shock setting issue. I thought I needed to slow the boost down because I would be in full boost by 3 seconds.

I love this thread so much knowledge and insight thanks all for sharing....ive been learning a bunch


FastmOp what size spring are you running in your wastegate?

Great question. Think it was stuck. Testing soon.

Well I would say yours probably makes similar power at similar boost as mine. Pretty close anyway… So while I am sure that you could get this thing to leave on 5psi, and ramp in within 3 seconds… that will leave a LOT on the table.

On any halfway decent track, (even Wednesday night test and tune with the street cars running), mine will leave on 12~13psi 4,000rpm two step with absolutely no problem. We’re talking 0.02 60ft consistency over MANY runs, and MANY tracks with that tuneup. The boost is all in as fast as I can possibly get it in (boost controller ramp from 12psi to 16psi in 0.1sec, even though it usually takes around 0.3sec to physically do it). 1.41~1.43 60ft all day long.

Even on arguably the worst absolute JUNK unprepped terrible track I have ever been on in the middle of summer, mine would still leave on 8psi/3500rpm ramping to 16psi in 2 seconds. Only went 1.59 60ft… but it got down the track.

If you were honest with Mark about the power, he sets the baseline tuneup at 15R10C. That means EVERY ONE of his customers starts at that value, because he custom tunes the shocks for your car/power level.

That being said, I would do the following…

Put the car on the trans brake with NO 2 step, and see how loose the converter is at full boost (14psi). Whatever the converter stalls to at that power take 1500RPM off that for the 2 step. (say it goes to 5000 RPM, I would take 1500rpm off that number for the 2 step. So 5000-1500rpm = 3500 two step). Now set the boost controller to 10psi, and plug in that 3500 two step number in. Put it on the trans brake at 3500, and see if it will make 10psi at that RPM level.

If it makes the 10psi… you are good to go. If it won’t make that much boost, move the 2 step RPM up 200rpm at a time until it makes the 10psi you’re looking for.

Set the boost controller to go from 10psi to the full 14psi in 0.3sec.


Set the rear shocks at 15R/10C
Do you have caltracs? If so, put the bars in the upper holes, with zero gap on the drivers side, and 2 flats of preload on the passenger side).
Set the fronts in the middle of the setting to start.

Go up there and let it eat.

Make a few passes to make sure it will hook, but from there start adding boost/RPM on the launch. I have found that adding boost instead of RPM is easier to get the car off the line. Again, if you can’t make more boost without any more RPM, add 200rpm at a time to get the boost up 1~2psi on the launch. If you try to jump from 10psi at 3500rpm to 14psi at 4000RPM you won’t learn anything. Take slow steps… If you get to a point where you’ve added boost/RPM and it spins, don’t lower the power back down… click the Rebound 2 clicks tighter on the rears and try again… It may need the fronts tightened up too, but it’s really hard to say where to go without watching the car on video, or having someone pretty sharp watching the starting line.

The only advice I can give on the front adjustment, is if the truck “leap frogs” forward and spins, that would be an indication to tighten the fronts. If you’re watching on video, I try to get around a full turn of rear tire rotation before the car picks the front tires up off the ground. If you paint a stripe on the tire, and have someone even slow motion with the iphone, you can usually see this pretty easy.

But for the most part, since you’re just trying to get a handle on getting the truck down the track (not fine tuning), I would say the above tuneup guide will get you started.

Good luck!