, track time is much more productive and fun then 50? more hp.

I like the as is supercharge solution, to get the power to the track with a torquey lightweight motor is a struggle, unless drifting is in the cards. Auto X wants the less weight solution, and alum heads.

Run it as is, until it quits.

So, as most of you know I'm scatter brained when it comes to builds. My thought process of right now is similar to the one I started with. Send the engine to IMM. Have them look it over and tell me what kind of condition it's in. Fix the small problems. If good, have them regasket and seal it. Add an Edelbrock Performer RPM to clear the hood and maybe a cam. Then just go. Second quickest and cheapest way to get a reliable engine after just throwing it in there.

I'll do a different engine swap when I do paint and body years down the line. But first, I want to make sure I have another project running and driving where I won't go insane, again, with nothing to work on at the house.

Build for RELIABILITY and simplicity, not horsepower/torque Sammy! All of that power is meaningless if your car dosen't run & we all know how much it sucks to have your car down in the garage. That being said, do not skimp on quality parts on your next build, especially the vibration damper!
I learned the hard way

I know... I know... *head bashing into wall*

Next build will probably be an aluminum Gen III Hemi...

So how much for the supercharger ? Might know a guy in Oz who needs it (even though he doesn't know that yet )

Depends, how much for the Viper engine...

That's a fact, which is why you see a very basic 5.7L in my car. While I don't have the funds to go crazy with it, it'll do 95% of what I want, when I want it, reliably and not stressed.

Sammy, read my post in Rylis' thread. I guess I could copy and paste here.

copied and pasted;

I thought you bought that engine to be a reliable put together combination.

If the compression ratio is setup and designed for Supercharging probably not going to be optimal for normally aspirated.

Put it together like you bought it. Either that or sell it as a whole for what you paid for it.

I thought your car was over at Hotchkis to put in this motor. It's been there for monthes. What else are they doing/undoing/correcting?

Kind of the game plan I'm putting together; however, if you give me too much time I'll overthink things, recalculate what I want or what's plausible, and possibly change my mind.

Hotchkis doesn't necessarily do all that much engine work so that's why I'd rather send it to a professional. Hotchkis is currently finishing off my 6-point cage. The plan was to get the small issues fixed with this engine and throw it in with a T56 transmission and a Borgeson PS box. There's also some small things like redoing my brake lines and other things.

Since product installations is their main market for business, they've been bringing in installations each week which puts my Dart on the sideline. Not only that, but they've had some of the boss's race cars needing work and prep for races which obviously has more priority than my Dart. The Dart has been there for about 3.5 months now.

Another idea based off of Goody, Rylis, and Amxautox's suggestions. When IMM checks out the engine and if all the internals look alright, see how much he can squeeze out of the 360 using the same internals, intake, carb and heads. Maybe get some aluminum heads. Sell/store the J heads and Supercharger. Light, reliable, streetable (non-overwhelming) power.

Stroked is the way to go. The 427 in the Red Brick is more than enough to scare the pants off of you. If you lived in Northern CA, I would take you for a ride.

Lee

I'll give ya 100 bucks for that ProCharger-woodchipper. Ya know, just to make your decisionmaking-issues easier ofcourse...

Flip the blower, intake, and J heads.

Take the cash and buy a set of Eddy heads and RPM intake. Find the proper cam to go with them. Assemble and enjoy.

I think for Autox neither will hook up. If building for Track Day warrior, leave boost alone for reliabilities sake. Running balls out for 20+ laps is a battle against heat already so don't compound the problem with boost IMO. I have tuned my car pretty conservatively from idle to 4000 rpm and it is still to much for 335's in an Autox scenario. Add a supercharger and I could drift the entire 1 mile course easily. Put 275's on the rear of my car now and I could probably do it already.

This. Brian and Fred have built a few stroked+blown small blocks. They make sick power. Get a Snow unit or = and have fun.

I like the idea of a whipple supercharger and FI, one of the front intake blowers keeps the hood clearance low and you get instant torque without the heat. That and a set of aluminum SB heads, roller cam, K1/Molner crank and rods and you will be on your way to a good winning combination. Tim

Do you already have the borgeson box?

The engine going anywhere for work is going to cost money. What does a Leakdown test show? Where's the air leak? I'd do the absolute minimum to get running like it sits. Get to driving and having fun.

I'm not voting you go with a Hemi, but fyi, Hemi swaps can be cheap. 300 rwhp with log manifolds and a bone stock early 5.7 (with manual steering). Or 400 rwhp with a bit of work and headers. If you already have the borgeson box, then buy the TTI's and get out your hammer. Fits on my car. I highly recommend putting the motor in from below. My second piece of advice for those reading- if the headers don't fit with the TTI mounts, modify the mounts to fit the headers. Emil did that and has pretty headers. I did not and I do not.

I'm mostly going to Borgeson for the lighter weight and faster steering ratio. My box is most likely due for a rebuild anyways.

The compression test was done when the engine was bought. As for where the source of the problem is. It's unknown. IIRC the main seal was leaking before he took it out.

Yeah, these threads were a bad idea. I'm all over the place now. Depending on the condition of the block, I'm at the point where I'll either just sell the top end and go to aluminum components or just run it as is.

Just do a simple turn the key and drive it stock stroke 360 with a small carb, even if it makes 400 hp that will be plenty for autocross and track days given the brakes and tires that you have. If you start trying to build some high powered thing or do a gen 3 hemi swap you will be just looking at it sitting the garage for years.
You are not going to win the optima fastest street car shootout with the car if it has 400,500 or 700 horsepower...so build something you can get and drive and not lift the hood for a month.