Yep, head flow numbers don't mean a ton to me unless there is a way to really document everything. I found this out years ago on my own bench when I played around with head placement over the cylinder. It is easy to pick up some cfm my moving the intake over closer to the center of the bore. I finally built a fixture with dowel pins so the head was always in the same location on the bore. I also machined up a radius plate that I used on all heads. Once I did that I was able to start getting repeatable results.

There were some guys on SpeedTalk a while back who had a test fixture which they sent from guy to guy so everyone could calibrate their benches to the same fixture. Something like that makes sense for people who are working back and forth a bunch.

A Flowbench never has been, nor ever will be a Dynomometer.
And as I am quite sure we all know, it is just a "tool" to measure gains or losses in one particular area.
I don't discuss "flow" on the internet.... way too many variables not just in benchs, but in methodologies, which ALL can affect results.

THANKS to ALL of you here for posting your results, from ALL locations, very informative and much appreciated.

My first set of TF heads showed up today and I figured out a couple of things. First of all they need 10x of the longer 5.000 inch head studs. That is a common part number but until TF or ARP build a kit you'll have to source your own. Same stud that is used in the B1 kit so if you have a spare B1 head stud kit laying around you can rob them from it. If you're building your own head stud kit I'd order 24 of the 2.725 short stud from ARP. The 2.725 stud fits better than the standard 2.750 stud that they use in their kits. The 2.725 stud screws in further and clears the header flange.

Even more interesting is the fact that the rocker shaft studs need to be all short ones. No long ones required. I used 10x of the 2.500 ARP stud and it worked just fine.

My first set of TF heads showed up today and I figured out a couple of things. First of all they need 10x of the longer 5.000 inch head studs. That is a common part number but until TF or ARP build a kit you'll have to source your own. Same stud that is used in the B1 kit so if you have a spare B1 head stud kit laying around you can rob them from it. If you're building your own head stud kit I'd order 24 of the 2.725 short stud from ARP. The 2.725 stud fits better than the standard 2.750 stud that they use in their kits. The 2.725 stud screws in further and clears the header flange.

Even more interesting is the fact that the rocker shaft studs need to be all short ones. No long ones required. I used 10x of the 2.500 ARP stud and it worked just fine.

I'm surprised ARP doesn't offer a stud kit for the Victor heads yet. I would have thought there would have been enough demand for it that they would have issued a part number for it.

Then you put a head gasket on the head, located by the dowel pin holes, and then I go......... Hmmmmm
First pic is a Cometic, second is the TF recommended Fel-Pro 1009.
The Fel-Pro is right at the edge of the square. I put some bluing on the head and scribed where the end of the head gasket lays.
I'm thinking there's gonna be a little leak here if you don't do something about it.
I also have a Victor graphite faced gasket here that was wide enough in this area that it would probably seal this off okay, but the gasket fire ring was ever so slightly inside the chambers in a few areas.
IMO, for the next batch of castings, TF should just fill these squares in. There is one at each end of the head, and they both have this same issue.

Got a call from TF and they are listening because I brought up the these holes and they are going correct this problem in the next castings. They told me if I had my heads and hadn't put them on send them back but if I wanted to use them just fill the holes in with right stuff. He said they had done alot of testing and assured me they were good but they wanted to go ahead and fill the holes in. If you guys have any ideas and suggestions to make to TF I suggest you call them because they are trying hard to make us a very good head.

That's why I'm buying a set of these heads off of TF. They obviously do care.

If you guys have any ideas and suggestions to make to TF...

1. Get guide clearance checked and corrected as needed
2. Get valve seat contact pattern checked and corrected as needed
3. Replace titanium retainers, if equipped, with tool steel retainers for street use << or switch to springs w/o dampers if you're going to still use ti retainers - Brad >>
4. Fill in stupid square holes in head surface

Well, here's a start, courtesy of a post from earlier: