Excellent, folks! I appreciate it!

If you have several psi at the carb inlet at WOT (with an adequate fuel line ID end to end) then your delivery is adequate (tho an elec helps priming) and if your fuel ain't percolating then a return line ain't absolutely required but cooler fuel (from it constantly moving from the recirculating) does help power slightly (every little bit adds up)

Can anyone offer plans for wiring the fuel pump, including the relay? Is it on the internet somewhere?

Use the Carter pump. Puts out a steady 7 psi and doesn't require a return or relay to run it. This one is on my 32 Ford with an early Hemi with a 3 deuce setup. Runs perfect, but insulate it well from the chassis to cut down on the noise.

A couple of decades ago, I installed a Mallory 140 with regulator, plumbed into the factory mechanical pump, works great and if either would fail, I should be able to get home.
I also installed a fuel pressure gauge (electric) and mounted inside the car.

I decided to research this because I thought the electric fuel pump was a more modern way to move the fuel from tank to carb. It also would add some HP to the drive train. Are there any schematics available for wiring the pump, relay, and oil pressure sensor?

You folks have been a great source of information, and I thank you all.

If you go with a Carter pump the wiring is simple. No relay is needed just a fused 12 volt power line (hot when key is on) and a ground. Also, if you add a hidden toggle switch in the power line it makes for a good anti theft device.

By the way, electric pumps aren't that new... the '63 Austin Healey 3000 I drove in college had one.

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html

Hope this helps

Also, I bought a tee for the oil sender and the oil switch.

Very good info.

So why won't you use a mechanical fuel pump?
500 hp six pak engines work fine on a mechanical pump.

I currently have a mechanical fuel pump, but have had issues with those pumps in the past. I was just researching a way to "modernize" my current setup.

The main reason is to deal with current gas which boils and vapor locks more easily. As most cars use pressurized EFI, vapor pressure of gasoline is not controlled to the lower levels of the 60's and 70's.

My '47 Power Wagon, for example, would not re-start after hot soak at all unless the fuel pump and adjacent lines in the engine compartment were hosed down with cool water. It would also cut out rolling on a 90 degree plus day.

My '78 Ford F250 had borderline vapor lock running and was very hard to start after hot soak. When I added a deeper tank + longer pickup, it also would cut out running at higher load in hot weather. Check showed fuel pressure dropping to near zero at the carb.

An electric pump fixed both... as a bonus, the carb bowl fills faster after sitting and much less cranking on cold start. The trucks are functional and fun again. As much as I would like to keep it simple, the electric pump can help keep these vehicles rolling.

I have aluminum heads and intake. How would that effect the heat soak issue?

Sure sounds like a lot of over complication for a simple deal. I run a Mr. Gasket pump right in front of the rear end. Been running it about four years now. Other than being a little noisy it works great. If I get the chance I'd change it for the noise but regulate to 6 psi right before the carb, no return and it supplies a 400 hp 360 in every situation. The car can sit for 2-4 weeks and to start it all that has to be done is start the pump, let it run until it deadheads, pump the electric choke carb three times and it fires right up. Sometimes too fast. GOOD grounding is the key.

I would guess Al heads and manifold would get more heat to the carb and tend to boil the fuel out more. As far as actual vapor lock in the pump and suction line, probably not much difference since that is down low... though exhaust and headers can have an impact.

A heat isolating gasket between the carb and manifold would help a lot with carb heat... as thick as you can fit.

I have a 1 inch 4 hole phenolic spacer. Would that help?

Yes, the spacer should help reduce heat transfer quite a bit.

I have used the Holley red for years in a few cars. Needs no regulator as its preset about 6 psi. Ron