Flow numbers on the 270 head are floating around, there is a brochure from Trick Flow that I've seen. 350cfm @ .700 lift is what I recall on the intake side. Exhaust flow didn't change.

I'm safe then. I wont make 600 horse after the head exchange. I'm at like 530-540 currently.

The 270 looks like it might be a good head for my Procharger BB build. HMMMMM

AndyF, you ever use a strobe or timing light on the valve train while it's running with the clear valve covers?

No, I don't have the right equipment to do that. I can shoot video with my iPhone and then do slow motion but I haven't tried it yet. My guess is that the iPhone can't slow down enough to see anything but I could be wrong.

Trick Flow has their 2017 catalog on their website. It has the 270 heads in it as well as a new valley plate. I don't think you can order any of the parts yet though.

Here is a link to the Car Craft article: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/trying-find-extra-power-rocker-arm-testing/

Has some embedded videos so the link might be slow due to the ads.

Congrats Andy! Awesome, great article and videos for Hot Rod magazine. Very cool to get the info here first on Moparts. Love those RAS rocker arms, glad I have a set. Any hopes of those being produced again?

The strobe does the work. Just turn the room lights down. Easiest way is using a timing light since it will be synced to the motor, so it will fire at the exact same time every revolution. It'll look like the valves aren't moving, but you will be able to see anomalies like spring oscillation, or various parts deflecting. You'll also be able to video it with just a regular cell phone at normal speed since it will only pick up the split second the timing light fires. If the timing light has that dial on it, you can delay the firing of the light to see the rocker at different amounts of lift. Just think of what the damper looks like when you're setting the timing. I don't know how long you can keep the motor at high revs, but just try it at idle and I think you'll be intrigued. Of course seeing a video with the clear covers would be great, too.

Trying to order head studs for the Trick Flow heads..
Summit has a stud kit (TFS-61604304) with 22 short studs and 10 long studs (don't mention length) - this kit apparently is only available with hex nuts.

What do I need to order if I want the best fitting studs?

AndyF suggested 24 x 2.725 studs and 10 x 5.000 studs - is this still the way to go?
This doesn't include the rocker arm studs, correct? AndyF suggested 10 x 2.750 for the rocker arm shafts.

Also looking for 12 point nuts.

What are the right ARP part numbers for the above studs and nuts, washers?

I use the 2.725 long studs since they are shorter and will clear the header flange. I told Trick Flow that but they went with the longer studs in their kit. I also told ARP about it but they sell the longer studs in their kits. So whatever......

You can just order the studs by description from ARP. I think they have a website now with a shopping cart but you'll have to check. I also order ARP stuff from Summit sometimes but Summit doesn't have everything in their catalog.

Thank you Andy! Why 24 short studs and not 22 like in the TF kits?
What's the thread for the studs? 3/8-16 and 3/8-24?
Can't find the 2.725 studs online. Do you have a part number?

Here is the next article from the Hot Rod website:

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/test-intake-manifolds-carburetors-440-stroker-search-ultimate-power/

I think I'm at the end of the road in terms of making power with the 240 heads. We're up into sonic choke range so the engine just doesn't pick up power very easy anymore.

Are you going to back-to-back the 240's and 270's on the other short block?

I'm not sure about a back-to-back test since that is so much work but I do plan to run the 270 heads on the same 470 inch shortblock with the same camshaft.

I noticed that a few days ago, it's really impressive 700+ hp with a smallish, modest CR motor . How hard would it be to get the M1 tunnel ram digitally scanned and 3d printed?

That's close enough for me.

Just a matter of someone being willing to spend the money to get it digitized and reproduced. I might do it someday, I'm getting closer and closer to that kind of stuff.

I brought that up because there are a couple of companies nearby that do the digitizing and printing. I'd love to have the grilles for my Barracuda in a lightweight material, not heavy pot metal. The intake would be nice, just for availability and losing a few Lbs wouldn't hurt either. I haven't talked to anyone about the actual cost of getting it done.

They didn't print the dyno results for some reason but I think I can post them on here since it is a pdf file.