I had looked at it in the past, but I went back and re-read the Sanborn post. I did much of what he did, maybe not exactly the same way, but it accomplished the same thing. I was using a solid roller and bushed the bores. I also cut the oil to the left galley with a plug in the passage under the front main bearing. No crossover, no oil in the left galley. Sanborn mentions his engine oiled the top end through the pushrods, just like your Magnum, because of the T&Ds. We used Cranes and initially oiled the heads as originally designed through the passages from the 2 and 4 cam journals.

When we did the oil system, we took the oiling for the head away from the cam journals and restricted the amount of oil going to the heads. All of the oil in the right galley went to the crank and stayed on the crank with none being bled off to do something else, except for some lube for the cam bearings. We went from fixing a rod bearing every 7 or 8 runs to being able to run a full season without taking the pan off.

I have lots of street miles on a solid roller setup with the oil blocked to the lifters. No issues to date, probably 10,000 or more miles this way. The cams I have run are grooved so the rockers oil full time and provide lots of drainback which I think is a plus.

ok, you guys know way more than i about these engines. i'v only built 3 and this will be #4. thanks for all your input here. originaly i thought maybe instead of totally blocking left galley i would drill a .060" hole in the plug just to get enough oil when street driving,which wont be much street driving. i have restricted oil to the rocker shaft to .060" each side since a spraybar oil rockers. my cam also full time oils. so looks like i will be fine blocking left oil galley which i will do. thanks again

I'd give you an A.

Not to be disrepectful, but tubing the oil gallery or bushing the lifters bore does not make it priority oiling. The oil still goes all the way up to the lifters and back down to the mains. Priority oiling will always oil the mains first.

That said, if you are not running a hydro lifter you should be blocking off ALL the oil to the lifters.

The only other exception to that rule is pushrod oiling. Then you need some oil at the lifters.

I'm with you as the circuit is designed for the LA, but if you are preventing oil going to the lifters (with the tube) the next path (albeit not a 'direct' path) for the oil becomes the Galley/web passage to the Mains....so with the mods we are now making....the mains become the 'Priority' (i.e., first in line) route by blocking (or at least obstructing) the path to the lifters. Also as important is that the rod bearings now become second (not third in line) through the crank to rod jounal passages. It's not a direct path, but it is as direct (priority as we can practically modify it to be...short of recasting the block. I just tried to put it in simpler terms so that some Moparts members (who may not otherwise understand) can get a hold of what we're speaking of. It's all good.

Also important to point out that since the engine designers never envisioned these 360 max cube motors to be turning 8000 rpm, there was nothing really wrong with the way they routed the oil. Tappet noise and (lash free) ease of maintenance were priorities as was near silent under hood noise...even at cold start-ups.

I go along with splash/drip oiling being sufficient for solids and most solid roller lifters....But I believe that latest design solid rollers (that do have internal oil passages) that direct oil feed the roller axles (such as the MRL's) DO benefit from lifter galley (direct pressure) oiling. My MRL's are providing pushrod oiling on my 414, I am not tubed/bushed but I have restricted the oil passages in the heads to the shafts with bushings that only allow (at best) .002 of clearance in the shaft for minimal oil to pass through. works great on my motor with the big Milodon pump and Dragster pan, I wouldn't run it with a conventional pump and pan though... and I'm only turning 7000-7200.

I get you SW and how you are defining "priority". It makes sense. Just pointing out that what we are calling priority is not the same as what the "other" brands are calling it, since their stuff has the oil go directly to the mains and then to the cam. In reality, an old engineering friend told me that since the sytem is always "loaded" once pressure occurs, it really makes no difference that the oil has to go up the block, turn horizontal, move forward and then turn 90*'s down to get to the mains. If you skipped all that, you would have a few less 90's in the system.

I'm not sure, but if I were going to do pushrod oiling that it might not be better to tube the passenger side and restrict the drivers side some. I would think that drilling a small .080 hole in the tube (maybe even as small as .0625) would help control the leaks around the lifters. If the bores were bushed, you could do the same to both sides.

I was stunned by how much oil leaks past the lifters. At 45 lbs of pressure they leak like a sieve. I didn't have a very good testing method but just turning the engine at cranking speed made the leaks even worse. The tube or bushing them dried it up by about 75%.

That's why I get uptight about oil control in these things. If you actually saw how much got past the liftes more guys would be trying to dry it up (I would think...but maybe not).

And you are correct about the OE engineering and RPM's. The small amount of degrees the oil timing is off has ZERO effect on performance until you to 6000-6500. After that, full groove mains are a MUST (although I know some who don't use them and get lucky...it's not a chevvie). at 7500 you need to make sure the pickup have enough area (most don't). At about 8200 the oiling timing issue must be addressed. I know guys who paid to have it fixed in the crank, but those had some issues. If you want reliable oiling over 8000 you have to correct the oil timing or you will kill number 3 and 4 rod bearings. If you fix it, they will go to 10,000 plus.

That of course, is not considering valve train issues.

Good discussion, like the old Moparts days.

In my own case, I think I'm gonna let sleeping dogs lie, the motor runs GREAT and is super reliable, last 3 times to the track I only lift the hood to help it cool a little quicker.

That Milo pump and pan has plenty of capacity and volume so the leaking doesn't seem to bother anything. When I first did this I was only getting 42 psi at 6000, too low but I found the problem was the restrictive fittings going in and out of the Freightliner cooler...But the Bearings looked like new. I ported the fittings to 7/16" ID and pressure went right back up. I really like running the remote filter and big cooler with the 10/30 Synthetic probably have close to 10 quarts in the system and still at least 60psi at the stripe at 7K. I'd like to at least restrict the #1 galley passage...but I'm not willing to pull the crank out to do it. The #2/#4 shaft/stud bushing restrictors upped the pressure 6-8 psi at the stripe and I'm still getting a little oil inside the shaft/rocker fulcrum (where I don't think pushrod oiling does an adequate job alone).

Just like with electricity, any change (and specifically WHERE in the circuit that change occurs) along the line to a series/parallel flow has an effect on the entire system