Oh well.... when I was working on the pre proto F-body
front suspension I had to pull about 12 ball joints a
day so I could set up for another front end(this was the
transverse bars).. yeah once in a while I would tear a
boot.. but not often... I HAD to make sure the fork was
under the boot.. on both sides of it.. I actually cut the
angle down on my pickle fork so it went in on a easier angle
EDIT
plus I always put grease on the fork so it slides on the boot

Nice Steff. That is what I have been thinking also

My comment on your lightening, IMO there is one glaring point where a failure might occur, (EVERY item has a failure point) its on the second LCA pictured, on the top of the LCA (which in use is the bottom), approx 2"? to the left of the pivot point, right above where the adjuster loads against the arm. That area is in tension under load, with the removed flanges in this area. I think this one area is overlightened relative to the rest of the arm, and simply adding back minimum flanges on both sides, or boxing the two sides together would reduce the stress concentration. Is it a big deal, not likely. This mod maybe already in the cards as I have no idea if this a progress pic or completion.

And weights before and after would make for good discussion.

I don't remember the before & after weights. A couple pounds maybe? I've been running these things for quite awhile with plenty of street miles and many "wheels up" launches at the track. They are plenty strong enough. No worries what so ever. I didn't plate the area where the T-Bar adjuster was due to not knowing at the time how much room I needed for the adjuster, and once I got them on the car I was going to measure and then take them back off and add a plate to box them. Never did though and again, not sure it needs to be, based on the abuse they've already taken.

That's good, but it would be the area I looked at first when doing regular check overs.

here is a pic of my stock shock towers. Do you guys that have done a front coil think they will be strong enough for coilovers?

also thinking about hole sawing my frame connectors. I have a 12 point cage in the car anyway and was thinking the heavy 2x2 square tubing is just adding weight

You're probably better off buying chrome-moly square tubing and welding those in.
I have though of this for a minute now being that I also did as you did, used heavy square steel tubing for frame connectors.

I would suggest you not revisit the Swiss Cheese debacle of 63'from yours truly: Pontiac related.

One area of the LCA's that I gave some serious thought to was the Torsion bar adjusting bolt and threaded sleeve to both be made out of Titanium. Though this may sound contradicting along other parts I have made/purchased in lightweight alloys, something about that load area makes me a deer in the lights. I only wish they could be stamped out of the elusive alloy and then I could sleep in bed, not at the tree. LOL.

I would add a few gussets in the right places and maybe a Chrome-moly bar or two triangular to that set up for strength, especially after a wheels up launch.

Contrary to the front end, I just received my new Launcher springs today from Tri-city and they weigh 90 Lbs for the pair.
I'll see what my El-cheapo RJS made in Mehico SS springs weigh compared to these new brutes.

Here is what Im thinking. If I go coil over, i can hack my lower control arms like Steff did. Maybe even more. I lose the weight of the t bars, the adjuster bolt and tab thing, cut out the lever. Maybe take a good look at the spindles for weight reduction.

Magnumforce sells coilover kits for to much money to use in the stock shock mount.

I would have to say that the Spindles are probably no-mans land as far as weight reduction. I think there are some 72'-73' Spindles that have less mass in their casting and thus far lighter by a pound or less. I haven't found them to compare against mine though.
About the only thing that can possible be done there are the two massive spindle mounting bolts and nuts in Titanium, along with about 16 castle nuts in titanium. EX$penSive indeed it would be.
I'm saving my wooden nickels.

1Lb 11oz so far and more to come when i cut that huge lump of steel the torsion bar goes into

Ray you could delete all your front end pinch welds on the frame.
Time consuming, but I'll bet there's some weight to be lost.

Matt

Would cost more.......but the LIGHT way to fix this is go to a Pinto style spindle and the coilovers. You would have to fab or buy lower control arms and Pinto spindle brakes. But then you lose the torsion bars, gain coilovers, a better lower control arm and better overall suspension. You could even lose the K-member and just put in a rack crossmember

Thanks Monte but I have no money or I should say no money Im willing to spend on the car. I think another crash is in our immediate future. Anyway...

FMJ, how much do those ti bolts cost? Cuz I just lost almost a lb on one spindle

Oh and i am ditching the torsion bars

I got a quote a while back for $25.00 per bolt. That is of course, titanium units, not Aluminum. But it only shaves about a 1/4 Lb.per spindle since Titanium is only about a 1/4 lighter than steel. Only good if you're chasing ounces.