Ordering an adjustable shift light this week, don't want a tach in the car.

Could put it in temporarily, find best et/mph, and adjust tranny to shift there automatically.

The 318 manifolds probably need to go.

I have a set of Dougs headers for another project, they are going in tomorrow.

Setting the shift points on the 44RH is problematic, no one makes governor weights that I'm aware of for the application.

After finding the optimum shift point for manual operation I'll hide the lamp in the dash.

The OD is heavier than the 904, the covnertor sucks, and the 2" pipe neck stinks too. I saw you run Saturday - it's a nice looking car. But it looks faster than it showed by a long shot. You know it's all about the combo. Yours has some mismatches. Personally I'd go back to the 904, add headers, and raise your shift points to 5500. Are you going to Carl's rental?

1) Removing the overdrive isn't an option, it makes the car very enjoyable at highway speeds.

2) Headers will be in the car by next weekend.

3) shift points are easy once I have a shift light tucked in the car.

Lets do the headers and see what shakes loose next.. Converter and input shaft change in the future is a possibility depending on how the car runs in 2 weeks.

Track rental I assume? When/where? I was just going to show up on a normal test and tune day.

Again just a reminder of the original intent of the car- It was going to be a long distance vehicle you could comfortably cruise long distance in and look fairly stock with a modest amount of power, that is why it had manifolds in the first place.

Looks like you were in the staging lanes next to me

I remember your car when we were waiting for tech, my son didn't get pictures of it though.

Why an LD4B on a 2.02 340 head?

No particular reason, I found a good deal on one and they have the same runner size as the ld340 intake and the ports were just opened up a bit to match the heads better. It works really well.

1) Removing the overdrive isn't an option, it makes the car very enjoyable at highway speeds.

2) Headers will be in the car by next weekend.

3) shift points are easy once I have a shift light tucked in the car.

Lets do the headers and see what shakes loose next.. Converter and input shaft change in the future is a possibility depending on how the car runs in 2 weeks.

Track rental I assume? When/where? I was just going to show up on a normal test and tune day.
[/quote]


I played with the A500 OD trans in my Dart when we put it together.(now a 904) It does make for a good fun driver, mine is set up with a 904 input and manuel valve body.

I would suggest you doing that, but DON'T buy a off the shelf converter. Have one made for your combo.

I would look at a air gap intake that matches your port size on the head http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/manifolds/chrysler/rpm-air-gap-sb.shtml

Thick tube, thick flange headers

Like it was said it's about the combo of parts being happy, and playing nice

Already have a Performer RPM, is an airgap version going to bring much to the table?

headers will make a good improvement. tighter lobe sep and looser vert would really help. if ya ever pull that cam again go tighter on the lobe sep, at least 110 and that would still be mild sounding. i ran a 112 lobe sep in a w2 headed 408 once and it was a pig off the line. i now use 108 but it does sound radical. my vert is a 8" dynamic 5400 and on the street you would think its a 3500. not bad at all. just some things to think about.

Roller cams seem to be a little more flexible, the car on the street has impressive manners and doesn't feel weak downstairs at all. I'd wager it has better response and low end then the first cam, you could feel it as soon as I went for the first road test.

I was shocked, my experience picking a "old school" flat slider cam for an application is almost useless in picking a roller.

Tech has certainly changed in the last 30 years as far as cams go.

The first pass at the track was on street tires, it was useless as they went up in flames instantly even trying to walk it out the hole.

The slicks were on the car 10 minutes later.

Plan of attack is headers -> Shift points and then a converter depending on what it runs. If the car runs well into the 13's odds are I'm going to leave it alone at that point as I do have other projects that have been languishing on the back burner. For years.

The only reason the Duster was at the track is I have a CSX we just got on the road a few months ago. The CSX was suppose to be at the track but has a random skip we have been unable to isolate yet.

Think tracking down a random skip on a 40 year old car is tough? Try a 30 year boosted EFI car that had been abused and neglected for years. PITA.

The Duster is JUST quicker than the CSX, due to slicks. The CSX ran 14.5 at 97 mph on street tires with a abused piston failing on its 3rd pass in July.

Link to detailed cam specs if interested-

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=661&sb=0

ok, yeah. my 112 lobe sep cam was a flat tappet. the looser vert or just a good quality vert by dynamic or lenny may do wonders. PTC on a budget but i think they are hit or miss.

My son and I pulled the manifolds off tonight, the ID on the manifold outlet is a splendid 1.75"

Been sidelined by a cold bug the kids brought home from school, going to be hard pressed to make the track on the 10th but I think we can make it.

I think it runs pretty good for having 318 manifolds and as heavy as it is. 14.2 not too bad. lol

My first car I raced had a 360 LA 2bbl motor with a 4bbl intake added otherwise totally stock 200,000 miles and all, dual 2" off the 273 manifolds, 2.94 open rear 205-70-14 tires and I could get a 2.00 60ft out of it at 3500LBS, I think you need to improve your 60 FT and headers ain't gonna do much there, 4 HP ain't much. Might be as easy as advancing the cam 3-4 degrees and shifting later will bring up the ET. Something is definately wrong in the 60 ft. That motor even ETd better shifting around 5000.

We will find out soon.. I think the manifolds were strangling the engine just as it was starting to get into its sweet spot. Headers and a higher shift point might just do the trick.

FYI CompCams lists the power range on this cam at 1200-5400 rpm. Remember its original application is a Ram/Durango/Dakota. Not sure if that is with a barrel intake or just general recommendation. Kegger is only good for 4500 rpm or so.

It should be a good match for a porky Duster.

If I feel it needs more cam, I can always try a set of 1.7 rockers I have on the shelf.