This will be my first time installing a valley pan gasket.

440 stock heads,edelbrock performer manifold, and headers.

I searched the web and there are alot of different opinions on how to do this.



At this time i will also be installing mopar performance valve covers using the fel pro 1612 gaskets.

My questions

Should i use the fiber gaskets on both sides of the pan gasket?

When i disassemble it should i put back together the way it was?Meaning use the gaskets if they were installed last time?

Rtv the end rails and corners and nowhere else?

Keep the heat crossover covered?

I am putting a new one on because oil is pooling up on top of the valley pan.

Any advice or tips?? Thanks Tim.

I used the fel-pro HP pan with heat block off. I installed the 4 gaskets = 1 each side of pan.

I installed those gaskets dry with the supplied black rtv in the 4 corners and a thin coat on the block/pan on end rails. I also used some copper rtv on the bolt threds to stop oil wicking up the threds and pooling on the intake.

I got the pan with end rails installed and snug pulling the pan down then slipped the gaskets into place. dropped intake on with the other gaskets. installed intake bolts and torqued to specs then torqued end rails down.

I did let mine sit 24 hrs for the rtv to cure before running engine.

I played around with intakes/leaks with "just" the pan with no gaskets.

gaskets fixed the leak issues I had. I have even swapped intake out 2x already with same gaskets/pan.

SUPERFORMANCE for the M/T valve covers and all other engine gaskets.

I'd use the side gaskets with the valley pan and Fellpro has thick ones and superformance (on here) has .015" thin ones. First I'd mockup the valley pan/gaskets/intake dry & see what your dimentions require as the height of the "V" will vary considerably due to block height block milling head milling head gasket thickness intake milling. Barring measureing the horizontle "height" of the head ports compared to the horizontle "height" of the intake ports & using that as a baseline I would simply pick the right gaskets (intake needs milled in some cases) so the bolt holes are dead centered. I would block off the heat risers and use "the right stuff" on the front rear "bars"

If I use the side gaskets I usually hold them in place with some copper spray adhesive to make the job easier...

A bump for any more advice or tips. Thanks !!

Since the 60s Ive installed all mine with just tins.Never had a problem with either iron or aluminum intakes and or heads.I run now alumionum heads and intake.Only place I use RTV is in the 4 corners and a slight amount where the hold downs bolt.Rocky

I usually attach the fiber gaskets to the pan with Indian Head, then use just a little RTV on the end seals.

The last 2 engines I've put together, I couldn't have squeezed 2 of them in there, so I opted to put it on the head side only, and just used some Hylomar (the newer version made by Permatex, it's name escapes me now) on each mating surface.

For the RTV, I put a line along each block end, and a little extra in the corners.

Only time I used side gaskets was on an aluminum intake and sometimes not even there.They were never installed on original iron head motors and when done right never leaked.I've use valley pan gaskets over in an emergency and if you seal them right they will not leak.

Neither of my 440s will take the gaskets. They haven't been decked or had the heads machined.

Hylomar is its own company. Permatex used to market Hylomar Blue in this country. Permatex might attempt to make its own version, but it'll never be as good as the original.
They have a variety of products.
http://hylomar.com/

Just don't get it on your hands unless you like blue hands!

After fighting end seals on intake manifolds for nearly 40 years I am happy to say that they go into the junk box immediately and are ably replaced by silicone if I'm feeling cheap and The Right Stuff if I have a few extra bucks.

R.

Clean the heads and manifold surfaces up very well and set the intake on the heads and go from there As Robert pointed out and you already know not all parts line up and fit proeprly, epscially non stock parts The oil poolings is coming out of the valley pan, one side or the other Let us know what you find and do

I have never used the paper side gaskets on any build and I have been building them since 75. Man I'm old. Mopar used to sell a gasket sealing spray can just for shim steel pans and head gaskets. I still have some left. I do use right stuff for the ends. It ain't cheap.

Or the valley pan is cracked.

Could be that too I've seen that on a 383 motor with the heat insulation pack under it I have had a problem motor,440, that is wicking the oil up one of the intake manifold bolts and leaking onto the top of the intake, dangest thing I have seen in a while Never say Never

Just remember once you mill the intake,you can't go back ,you're stuck with it for that engine if having things correct concerns you .

Next question.?

I know to rtv between the block and the pan gasket.

Front and rear rail and corners.

Do i put it anywhere else?

Around the ports?

Between the manifold and pan?

Taking a closer look it seems my set up has no fiber gaskets at all.Just a tin pan gasket. I can also see a little blue rtv.

When i reassemble i will be using the right stuff black.

Parts should be here tomorrow . gonna tear it down in the morning.

I would suggest a thin film of cement around the (4) ports on each side (on both sides) of the tin valley pan

The blue RTV is probally the main reason it is leaking oil around the stock valley pan That stuff is worthless on motors in my opinion, I can't tell you how many guys that I know that tried to use that stuff on intakes when it first came out, they never sealed up oil tight As far as the "Right Stuff" you might want to reconsider using it,I've never used it due to its reputation on being very, very hard to take apart and remove once it has set Maybe some other people on here who have used it will chime in on there experiences and likes and dislike of it I have used Hylomar with good results on intake gaskets, heads and intake sufaces IHTHs

Have been using this for 10 yrs on everything,not slimy like most silicone,never failed.