On my Milodon #30930 7-Qt low profile pan, the pan curves down right after the bolt holes, and with me using the BCR stud girdle, the inner side part where the pan/girdle studs go was seeing oil, and the oil would drip down the oil pan studs. The outside of the oil pan sealed fine. I was able to fix the leaks by just putting some RTV around the studs, under the nuts holding the oil pan on.

It sounds like you may have a different problem, but may be worth checking if it looks like the oil is dripping from the pan bolts?

Did a leak down test on warm engine this weekend and all 8 where in the 6-10% leak down range so i guess that is not the problem.

Any toughts on running a vacuum pump on a street motor?

If you have a good baffle then it wouldnt be a issue.. but
if you dont.. do you feel like stopping every 5 miles to
pour the oil back in the engine from the catch can... you
need to find the base problem

I'm a little late to the game here, sorry

Unless your crankcase is experiencing some extreme pressure you should not be leaking between the oil pan/gasket/timing cover/seal retainer and I doubt that to be the case because, as stated, the rear main seal is dry and no mentions of leaks anywhere else.

I suspect your choice, application or method of using RTV sealer for the lack of sealing ability.

1) Use Permatex Ultra Black or equivalent.

2) Remove all traces of oil and apply an 1/8" BEAD to the areas of concern. Do Not spread sealant with your finger.

3) Install oil pan and gasket. Tighten bolts just snug enough to disperse sealant. Do Not allow sealer to skin over.

4) After 12-24 hours apply full torque to the fasteners.

5) Fill with oil, start and check for leaks.

Thanks,I appreciate your support

Make sure your oil pan and windage tray are not hitting the rear main cap studs/nuts if you are using main studs. They can hit just enough to keep the pan from completely pulling down on the block rail.

Make sure that the welds on sides of the windage tray doesn’t interfere. Install it with all the bolts but leave out the gaskets and have a look.

I had to do some grinding and welding on my tray to make it work, Mega block with Milodon #30930 pan and #32005 tray.

Impossible, that cannot happen!

I do not have a interference issue with the windage tray and I do not use studs on the mail. Like I have mentioned before I have tried many times now to seal this up with different gaskets with Würth Super RTV Silicone between all layers (pan gskets and tray) Been trying without any silicone, with only small amounts in suspected areas. I've been checking for a flat pan rail and windage tray and everything have been washed down with brake cleaner before assmbly and offcourse checking for holes / cracks in the pan.

Could the angle of the engine cause the leak in the rear? Running a TKO 600 transmission and that makes the engine being tilted more that normal towards the firewall.

Again, you are missing something. Bolts too long and bottoming out before full torque can be applied to the oil pan gasket?

You have either;
A) A component issue
or
B) An installation issue

The angle of the motor has nothing to do with a leak. Please, re-read my suggestion for proper installation of the Superformance gasket.

Key points...... Quality RTV sealer on the joints and across rear seal retainer, apply in bead form, do not spread out with your finger and do not allow it to skin over before installation.

I'm using the mopar performance pan bolts with the litte blue treadlocking compound on them and they are not bootomig out.
I will reorder a set of your gaskets and try again with a 1/8" bead of RTV silicone between the timing comer/ rear main seal retainer and the block. I guess I do the same between the pan and the Gasket. I think it's the 5th time I pull the pan this summer.....

I would agree with A or B if it wasn't for C = "dip stick blows out of the hole"( original post). He needs to get a definitive answer on crank case pressure FIRST. Lots of good suggestions on this thread and if the OP has done them all?, it leads back to a crank case pressure issue. Couple things the OP could try; 1.Start the engine up with both valve covers vented to the atmosphere. Just let it idle until it gets up to operating temp. Still got leaks? I would lean towards A or B. 2. Over fill it with oil until you are sure the oil level is above the pan rails on all sides and front and rear ( level the motor ). Let it sit that way over night. Got leaks in the same places? Again, I would be more apt to lean towards A or B.

The OP is running open element breathers.....


I have also seen dipsticks that fit very loose.
Not saying he does or does not have a blow-by issue.

Either way, the OP would need to have some severe crankcase pressure to blow past a properly sealed oil pan/gasket, especially a BB Mopar. And with no mention of leaks from other areas it keeps leading me back to improper installation or component issue but my eyes are not what they used to be.... can't see Norway from here anymore

I'm sure you are right about the Norway thing.