Thanks Dave,
Tough to find an Aftermarket bar for it though....

Could you post hex size, bar diameter and length? Maybe someone could find something to work with.

Drag radials are ALL about weight percentage........if the car is too light in the front, it will stand up, regardless of the weight of the front springs. It simply doesn't matter

Monte,

Thanks buddy. At this point it's so close that if I can slow the rate (degree) of rise per foot of travel a few more degrees I can hit second and be confident it won't go over. The DR's (after hearing all the comments) are hooking fine so it's up to me to figure out how to get it off the line at a more reasonable wheelstand height.

I know taking a little gear out of it might be all it takes (and I hope it does the trick) and it may not cost me anything RPM wise on the big end, I just want to try adding the weight (which I made real easy to unbolt) to the existing set-up first. It's so close to the point where I can just stick it and go.

Old picture but Statically the jack stand is right at the fore/aft CG (it's basically see-sawing right there). So Where I sit is right in the middle of the see-saw so I neither help or hurt the balance. So in rough #'s I have 17.25 pounds per inch in front and 26 lbs per inch to the back, so adding ~35 pounds to the front will move the CG forward about 1 1/2" doesn't sound like much but on such a short wheelbase it's more than a 6% increase in the fulcrum point (cg to rotational axis)

I think what I really need (since the driver is right on top of the CG) is a much shorter and much lighter (I'm 6'-2" and 235) driver that needs to pull the seat up about 4" to drive the thing

Ran some calcs, i think the 3.73's should help with the launch by killing the torque by about 9-10% , I'll go to the line with about 40 pounds of easily removable ballast under the bumper