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VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT #1856498
06/25/15 11:17 AM
06/25/15 11:17 AM
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moparmacka Offline OP
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Next stupid questions

When setting the lash in a small block with a solid roller, is there any special procedure or is it ok to use the old Mopar Performance valve lash decal procedure.

How much do you compensate for adjusting valve lash cold. Crane recommend 0.020" hot (solid roller) and the engine is W5 heads with Harland Sharp rockers.

Thanks
Macka

Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: moparmacka] #1856505
06/25/15 11:35 AM
06/25/15 11:35 AM
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You can use the old mopar decal procedure on any 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order. If you have a 4-7 swap (or omore swapped cylinder) firing orders just adjust the order that is on the decal to reflect the new firing order.

For a .020 HOT lash setting with a CI block and aluminum heads you need to be .004-.006 LESS COLD to START with. Get the engine to operating temp and check you HOT setting against the COLD setting until you get the .020 that Crane wants. For example, if you set the valves at .016 COLD and with the engine to temp they check at .024 HOT, you should understand that your COLD setting should be adjusted to .010 and again, you would want to start out with the setting dead cold and warm it up and re-check the HOT lash.

If you have a CI block and CI heads, I try to set them cold .002 LESS than HOT lash and warm up and check.

For those of you with the Midas touch and have aluminum blocks and heads you start COLD lash .010-.012 LESS than the HOT setting and warm up and check.

FWIW the cam card lash settings are suggestions. Most of the time if you test you will find out that lash can be set tighter than what the card says and performance will improve, especially cams that call out for .028-.032 HOT settings. I usually end up at .020 or so on those with much improved performance.

I NEVER set lash any wider than the cam card says HOT. If you loosen the lash and the engine is happy you need another cam.

My .000169 cents (adjusted for 2015 inflation).


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: moparmacka] #1856522
06/25/15 12:02 PM
06/25/15 12:02 PM
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The mopar chart is likely fine, if you have an old school 60s grind, when that chart was made, if you don't, I wouldn't use it and personally, I NEVER use it anyway. The ONLY proper way to adjust valves is with the lifter on the heel of the lobe. To make SURE that is the case, use the tried and true ex opening and intake closing method. This is NEVER wrong

Monte

Last edited by Monte_Smith; 06/25/15 12:02 PM.
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Monte_Smith] #1856544
06/25/15 12:27 PM
06/25/15 12:27 PM
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I use the open/closed method also
wave

Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1856552
06/25/15 12:47 PM
06/25/15 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted By MR_P_BODY
I use the open/closed method also
wave


Same here but recently found .004 by slightly rotating engine over more so what`s your method Mike................... thumbs


72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Thumperdart] #1856578
06/25/15 01:12 PM
06/25/15 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted By Thumperdart
Originally Posted By MR_P_BODY
I use the open/closed method also
wave


Same here but recently found .004 by slightly rotating engine over more so what`s your method Mike................... thumbs


Mine doesnt do that... when its on the heal thats it.. I have
rolled it back and forth to check
wave

Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1856605
06/25/15 01:30 PM
06/25/15 01:30 PM
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I used to do in. fully open then set ex. then ex. just starts to open set in. but went to ex. fully open and found it to be .004 looser my old way............... shruggy


72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Thumperdart] #1856621
06/25/15 01:48 PM
06/25/15 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted By Thumperdart
Originally Posted By MR_P_BODY
I use the open/closed method also
wave


Same here but recently found .004 by slightly rotating engine over more so what`s your method Mike................... thumbs
No matter how open, or how closed, you are STILL using THAT method, in lieu of some "chart". Cam timing as you have seen, can vary how much open or how much closed, as to where you need to adjust, but it still remains that ON THE HEEL is the only RIGHT way to do it. So how do you know where the TRUE heel is?.........simple, you LOOK, when you install cam. You are going to have the intake off, whether it is in the car or not. So after the cam is installed and degreed, you roll motor until cam is clearly on heel and see where the valves are in relation to open and closed. THIS is the RIGHT place to adjust it. So where is "TRUE" heel........again simple. Its 180* from the top of the lobe. This is true for ANY cam and ANY cam timing

Monte

Last edited by Monte_Smith; 06/25/15 01:54 PM.
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Monte_Smith] #1856633
06/25/15 02:01 PM
06/25/15 02:01 PM
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I agree it`s best w/intake off and I THOUGHT I had it figured it out but apparently just a bit off.


72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Monte_Smith] #1856891
06/25/15 07:12 PM
06/25/15 07:12 PM
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moparmacka Offline OP
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So Monte, do you commence at intake no1 on the heel ang go in the firing order, or do yo wing it watching rockers. I thought setting on the heel or base circle would be the most accurate way.

Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Monte_Smith] #1856897
06/25/15 07:17 PM
06/25/15 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
The ONLY proper way to adjust valves is with the lifter on the heel of the lobe.


Heel or base circle? Heel is one distinct spot, base circle spans many degrees.


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Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: John_Kunkel] #1856964
06/25/15 08:32 PM
06/25/15 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted By John_Kunkel
Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
The ONLY proper way to adjust valves is with the lifter on the heel of the lobe.


Heel or base circle? Heel is one distinct spot, base circle spans many degrees.


Base
wave

Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: John_Kunkel] #1857146
06/25/15 11:34 PM
06/25/15 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted By John_Kunkel
Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
The ONLY proper way to adjust valves is with the lifter on the heel of the lobe.


Heel or base circle? Heel is one distinct spot, base circle spans many degrees.
This has been discussed before and the answer is that it depends on how the lobe is shaped, but you can usually say the heel is on the base circle

Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: moparmacka] #1857289
06/26/15 10:20 AM
06/26/15 10:20 AM
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Cheers.
Monte, you find max lift then rotate 180 degrees.
I tried a Cranes recommendation today. Sounds a little weird almost closed and just opening!

Last edited by moparmacka; 06/26/15 10:21 AM.
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: madscientist] #1857362
06/26/15 12:52 PM
06/26/15 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted By madscientist
You can use the old mopar decal procedure on any 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order. If you have a 4-7 swap (or omore swapped cylinder) firing orders just adjust the order that is on the decal to reflect the new firing order.

For a .020 HOT lash setting with a CI block and aluminum heads you need to be .004-.006 LESS COLD to START with. Get the engine to operating temp and check you HOT setting against the COLD setting until you get the .020 that Crane wants. For example, if you set the valves at .016 COLD and with the engine to temp they check at .024 HOT, you should understand that your COLD setting should be adjusted to .010 and again, you would want to start out with the setting dead cold and warm it up and re-check the HOT lash.

If you have a CI block and CI heads, I try to set them cold .002 LESS than HOT lash and warm up and check.

For those of you with the Midas touch and have aluminum blocks and heads you start COLD lash .010-.012 LESS than the HOT setting and warm up and check.

FWIW the cam card lash settings are suggestions. Most of the time if you test you will find out that lash can be set tighter than what the card says and performance will improve, especially cams that call out for .028-.032 HOT settings. I usually end up at .020 or so on those with much improved performance.

I NEVER set lash any wider than the cam card says HOT. If you loosen the lash and the engine is happy you need another cam.

My .000169 cents (adjusted for 2015 inflation).
My Comp Cams cam card does not give a hot / cold setting. It just gives a setting ( .012 / .012 ). Assume they are looking at cold? I have used all the adjusting methods listed and they all work equally well IMO - as long as you stay out of the ramp area. Picking a cam is always a compromise. Running tighter lash than recommended, although giving you more lift and duration, doesn't always equate to improved performance. Within limits, changing lash is a good way to dial in your cam if you are in the ball park to start with. With todays lift rates, you sure don't want to run off the ramp area of the lobe ( on ether side ).


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Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: moparmacka] #1857428
06/26/15 03:02 PM
06/26/15 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted By moparmacka
Cheers.
Monte, you find max lift then rotate 180 degrees.
I tried a Cranes recommendation today. Sounds a little weird almost closed and just opening!
Don't forget that the cam rotates half as fast as the crankshafts does so when the intake lobes is at max lift at say 110 ATDC the motor will need to rotate 360 degrees to get the cam lobes positioned exactly opposite of where it was on the intake stroke at 110 ATDC work scope If you rotate the crank 180 from max lift(1/2 of 180 equals 90 cam degrees) it may still have the valves opened or be on the closing ramps on a big duration cam scope


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Monte_Smith] #1857567
06/26/15 06:42 PM
06/26/15 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
This has been discussed before and the answer is that it depends on how the lobe is shaped, but you can usually say the heel is on the base circle


Regardless of lobe "shape", the base circle is the base circle and it is equidistant from the rotational center of the lobe. Since the base circle is comprised of several degrees of cam rotation, proper lash can be measured anywhere on the base circle; so this nonsense that the valve lash must be adjusted on the precise heel (180° from max lift) is just that...nonsense.


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Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: moparmacka] #1857613
06/26/15 07:50 PM
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On the most radical cam lobes, you would still have about half the lobe being base circle. That leaves a ton of room for small variables. The Mopar two valve per 90 degrees will put the valve being set with the lobe being very close to the heel. How close? Take the installed centerline for either intake or exhaust, what ever you are setting, subtract 90 degrees from the installed CL, divide by two because we are talking CAM degrees, which are half crank degrees. A 112 lsa in at 112 would be 112-90= 22, divided by two, you get 11 degrees of the cam lobe from the exact center of the heel. I seriously doubt anyone can be within 11 degrees on all 16 valves just by watching the valve motion. I have trouble getting within 10 crank degrees due to fighting compression forces, and I am looking at the degreed damper. Either the two valve per 90, or watching where the adjacent valve is as you bump the motor around will work just fine IMHO. Either will get you within a few degrees of the exact center of the lobe heel.

Last edited by gregsdart; 06/26/15 07:54 PM.

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Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: John_Kunkel] #1857675
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Originally Posted By John_Kunkel
Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
This has been discussed before and the answer is that it depends on how the lobe is shaped, but you can usually say the heel is on the base circle


Regardless of lobe "shape", the base circle is the base circle and it is equidistant from the rotational center of the lobe. Since the base circle is comprised of several degrees of cam rotation, proper lash can be measured anywhere on the base circle; so this nonsense that the valve lash must be adjusted on the precise heel (180° from max lift) is just that...nonsense.
Jeez dude, what is your problem, you said this same stuff last time this was brought up. Some cams, depending on flat tappet, roller, hydraulic lobes have different shapes. The amount of degrees on the base circle is NOT THE SAME ON EVERY CAM MADE. Hence my suggestion to adjust it on the heel, because then you KNOW for a fact you are on the base circle. Why is that nonsense............please explain.

Just like Dom said.............he was using some "method" he thought was right and was on the base circle. It wasn't, he rolled it a little more and the lash loosened .004. If he had put it on the HEEL to start with he would have no doubt been on the base circle........correct?.......So explain the "nonsense" part of my suggestion again

Last edited by Monte_Smith; 06/26/15 08:53 PM.
Re: VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT [Re: Monte_Smith] #1857733
06/26/15 10:13 PM
06/26/15 10:13 PM
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Hey, I really "Swore" it was perfect my old way and decided to check it again and guess what? I was wrong even though I "thought" for sure it was perfect but this time I measured every square in. of each lobe and got my .004 back.


72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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