Did they weld the crack or was that necessary?

Tom, those look good and I appreciate you doing the homework for us. Wade and I were talking about going to that exact same wheel/tire combo in the future. I need to know what the offset of those is and if you ditched the spacers or not. I was looking at wheels just like Samy's in that 18x10.5 size, but im too chicken and poor at the moment.

BTW, Vaughn Machine is in Cali and does very good aluminum wheel work.

I kind of like the way that I figured it out by finding a test wheel and tire that barely rubs the leaf springs and start playing with the rimsntires calculator to find what new wheel to put on. Unfortunately for my car, some trimming, rolling, and folding will be required.

Tom was also dealing with spacers and tire rub. In some instances they were hitting the leaf springs, swap spacers around and they were hitting the inner fender. I think he got it just right at the end.

Wow! They're not that far from me. That could be useful if I ever find a good, cheap CL wheel.

I was bummed at Hotchkis because they were having a lot of timing issues. Twice I ran a great lap only to have the clock not stop. The run that shows 51 seconds was actually a 28.190, good enough for second, .1 out of first.

They do weld cracks if nec.

These 18x10.5 have a +42 offset. I run the 8.8 so I don't use much spacer on back, looks like a 7/16 will be good if I get the rear end perfectly centered and the leafs in 1/2 inch. The front will be tough, these Rival S 315 tires are wide. I'm hoping if I mill the Córdoba hub I can run no or little spacer, and get minimal rubbing inside....

Just wondered if the "small crack in the bead" you said you had needed to be welded up or?

Nice to learn what is ok and what needs to be repaired when looking at used rims for sale.

Nice Tom! Too bad they goofed up your time! Even with the times they showed, you were right on second with the .547 vs .534. Great job. Good luck fitting those wheels on front. Should be even faster! Mine is in the body shop. It was supposed to be done Friday. It wasn't. Now, we are shooting for Tuesday. Rick.

Different wheel shops will have WAY different standards on this one, the shop I use is very conservative, if the bend or the crack is anywhere near the hub/lug area they won't touch it. The shop I use (Wheels America) has the best equipment, so they can true wheels via CNC to a very high standard.

Rick what are you getting done?

So did they leave the crack and it was determined not significant? Nothing wrong with that.

Just would like to know what kind of minor cracks are fine. $620 total into a forged rims like that is awesome.

Did they just check it, polish out nicks, and repaint?

No they repaired this one, I'm guessing they welded it since again it was about 3/4 of an inch into the lip. If it was possible to just CNC it out they would. They also CNC'd the face of these, to give a machined finish, painted the inserts hyper silver, and then cleared the whole thing... Here again are the before and after shots

I honestly think the Hellwig helper springs are giving the Hotchkis leafs the little bit more spring rate I wanted... The Valiant feels better balanced. I always felt the rear was dictating lean more than the front. Not conclusive, but before and after photos:

And two more, looks to me like the rear fender lip isn't rolling as far down the wheel...

How close did the rears get to the target number I gave you Tom?

Looks awesome sir! Let me know what you figure out in the front.

Btw- I rub frame rail with 265/40/18 and +45mm in the front. still have 1+ turn each way (borgeson box, 3.0 lock to lock I think).

Also- I was trying to talk the BFG guys into a rival in 305/30/19. They said they'd look into it. Doubt it'll happen. I told then it's a factory size for a number of cars- anybody know what that is a factory size for?

That looks really good Tom. With the amount of tire you have on the ground, it will exaggerate ANY weakness IMO. With that said, you may need to step up rates across the board. I can say that I didn't even notice a difference in ride going from 1.06 to 1.18's.

Unsure what # you mean.... Unless it was 1, as in 1st place is the target...

Thanks Wade I'm sure the 315/30 will rub the frame in front, unless I do massive fender modification. I'm hoping either BFG or Bridgestone brings out one of their new 200TW tires in a 295/30/18, that would be perfect in front on these 10.5 wheels.

Thanks Emil, I do want to step up the front bars, I think that and a rear Panhard are next.

Here are the two leaders of our Cam classes this year, the Valiant with a 108" wheelbase weighs 3250lb leads CAM-T. The Mustang II with a 96"? Wheelbase weighs 2900lb and leads CAM-S. The most interesting part I think is that these are arguably the two lowest buck cars in the classes, but they are the best balanced for Autocross. The Yellow Camaro is living proof that $100k dollars buys you massive HP, Hydroboost brakes, everything DSE makes for suspension, but the bottom half of our Autocross results...