I,ve checked jegs and Mancini.anyone got a good source for this tool?

I have a stud remover I got from matco I think. It works just like a socket, slide it over the stud and it grabs it.

Thanks.I see them on amazon and e-bay but I don't want to get something that's going to damage my studs.thats why I was looking for a recommendation for something good that wont break the bank.thats also why I was sticking to automotive sites while looking.this isn't something I need to use on a regular basis.

Screw a nut onto the stud approximately 1 1/2 inches, screw on another nut and with a wrench on the bottom nut and a socket or wrench on the top nut tighten the nuts together. Put a socket on the top nut and unscrew the stud. Works every time with no damage.

I just double nut them and back them out.
The stud remover I have from NAPA works too, but it does scar up the shank of the stud.

Like said, Matco, Snap on etc is where you get a real stud installer and remover. Those cam lock tools should never be used an a race engine, they damage the stud. LIKE THE 2 CAM LOCK TOOLS i HAVE SITTING ON THE LID. They are for one removal, imo. This tool has 3x the leverage as 2 double nuts.

Different col let for each size fastener. This one came from Snap On.

Every fastener is a stud on my motors.

You know its GREAT to have fancy tools from back in your old racing days BUT most do it your selfers have budgets to stick to. I do a lot of engines and double nutting has worked every single time and it FREE. Head studs aren't supposed to be cranked in tight anyway and take very little to break them loose. Take you pick and buy a fancy tool or try the free way. Its up to you.

If double nutting worked on every fastener, then I wouldn't own a stud tool. And it's not a fancy tool, it's a basic tool and I use it for many pieces of equipment, not just race cars.

His question was about head studs. If he's in the garage business your tool may be necessary although even with 33 years as a Millwright I never needed one.

Studs should only be finger tight so you really shouldn't need much force to remove them. ARP broaches the ends of most of their studs so you can use a hex wrench for removal. I spin my head studs in and out in just a few minutes with a T handle allen wrench.

Double nutting works for studs that have been damaged or corroded but the collet style tool is the best setup. You only need 3 or 4 collets to everything on a normal engine so it isn't a big investment. Only time I use the collet tool is if I'm tearing down a motor that some goober built who locktited the studs in place.

He asked about a stud tool , I educated him on what one looks like and how it works. Get over yourself!

Double nuts here too, as mentioned the studs shouldn't be more than hand tight. BTW, not all ARP studs are broached for allen wrenches, the ones in my R1 block aren't.

OK guys heres the prob.after I got my engine together I realized I couldn't get my headers on,i had to grind off the top of the stud.not enough room to dbl nut and for some reason they wont turn out easily by hand.i can and did get them out but just want to make it easier in the future.

If I have a stud like that and I may have to remove it quickly at the track for maintenance is I remove it at home and screw a couple of nuts on the stud so you can hold it in a vice. I then cut a small screwdriver slot ( with a cut off wheel) across the top of the stud so when its in the car I can take a screwdriver to screw out the stud after the nut is removed.

THANKS.that's exactly what I ended up doing.but I would still like to have the tool.ME LIKES TOOLS.

Sounds like you need to buy shorter studs from ARP. The new studs should be broached for an allen wrench. Then they will be easy to install and remove.

ARP has the shorter studs to clear the exhaust flange on a std port head like the Indy EZ.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=675443&store=snapon-store
Looks like $535 from the truck.
Buy it on ebay used for a lot less.

R.

I didn't buy the full kit, I just bought the housing and the 3 collets needed for engine work. If you do it that way it is only $150 or so.

I just pulled a set in about 10 minutes with a Thandle allen. Just to add on most INdy heads use a 12 point nut. The six points often have to be ground on to clear the headers.
FWIW
Todd

I covered the topic in my big block book and showed the correct ARP stud to use. ARP makes a slightly shorter head stud with additional coarse threads so you can screw it further into the block. This gets the stud out of the way of the header flange. Both of the ARP studs come with a broached end so you just use an Allen wrench to install and remove.