Got everything but studs for rocker shaft to hold down. Indy SR's anybody got a part #?

I know Indy offers a stud kit for their heads, but don't have a part #. Any Indy dealer should be able to provide that for you (along w/ the product ).

EDIT: If my Google search for ya' is correct, the ICH # is 440-R4-11.

Just got ahold of Indy. Part #440-R4-11 washer stud and nut kit!

I had to use those Indy studs when I put in my HS set on the 440-1 heads. The studs and nuts look like Chinese crap and if you can find some better stuff it would probably be a good idea. And post up the source as I would like better stuff myself.

You can order ARP stuff and make your own kit - these are Summit part numbers - I just used these for my HS rockers

ARP-200-8556 WASHER 10-PC comes in a package
ARP-300-8332 12 PT NUTS 10PC comes in a package
ARP-AJ2500-1B STUD 3/8 X 2.500 – you need 6 of these
ARP-AJ3250-1B SHAFT STUD – 3/8 x 3.25 you need 4 of these

Thanks!

That's handy to know. I may need something longer than what I have already and had no idea that Summit carried (or at least lists) a variety of ARP studs in different lengths.

I used to sell an ARP stud kit but the kits were expensive and people didn't buy them. So I killed off that part number.

ARP was supposed to set up a Mopar rocker arm shaft stud kit but I guess then never did. I gave them all of the info back when I was working on my big block book.

IIRC, I bought your last two kits.

The Rocker Shaft Holt down bolts or studs still seems to be the potential weak point.

I am running the 440 Source Stealth heads, and the aftermarket Stainless Steel roller tipped rockers which use bronze bushings on the thicker shaft with the upgraded hold down hardware. Big steel shaft hold downs. The whole kit came with bolts and washers.

On the stealth heads, the rocker shaft end and center holes are tapped with heli-coils that provide one full inch of threads to connect to (16 1/2 rotations before a threaded rod bottoms in the hole). The three supplied bolts only go down 6 threads before getting tight with the shaft and hold downs in place. That's 10 full threads NOT being used.

On the two deeper holes, the threaded rod will go in 12 turns before bottoming in the hole. The Supplied bolts again only engage the top 6 threads. That's only 1/2 of the available threads to hold the rockers shafts in place.

Since there is so much more material there to use, I am going to install high strength Studs in the holes using ALL of the available threads in the heads.

Why no one makes a proper stud kit for the stealth or Edelbrock RPM heads is just beyond me. I know Indy has a set for their heads, but don't know if they will work here. Also read here somewhere they were junk anyway.

So... I want ARP type studs with a full 1" of 3/8-16 rolled threads to grab all of the threads in the head. Smooth up to the 3/8-24 threads at the other end which should also be a full 1" of threads with a total length of 3.3" to 3.5" for the short ones and 3.8 to 4.1" for the long ones. Total length will depend on how long the threaded length is at top end.

For the Stealth heads anyway, this will be optimum for strength and rigidity for the rocker shaft using the heads as they come from 440 Source.

Will post Part numbers for all of it once the final fit is done. Already checked for clearance with the Mopar Performance cast valve covers for studs sticking up.

I bought grade 8 bolts at hardware store, cut heads off to make studs for my HS equipped, Edy Headed 512.

Agree with you, bolts only using small part of threads in aluminum heads even if heli-coiled did not feel right to me.

I had called HS tech on this, they kinda ho-hummed my concern but agreed that studs were not a bad idea if I was concerned.

You ran a die on those cut off Grade 8 bolts with no heads to make your own threads?

I messed around with a couple of non-optimal solutions until I bought the stud kit from AR Engineering. Once those were installed, I never had a problem. I'm running Eddy RPM heads, Hughes Aluminum Rockers, Hughes shafts and the Hughes spacer/hold-down kit. The really nice part about the kit that AndyF put together was that there was an allen head recess in the top of the stud. You could bottom out the stud in the rocker support stand and then back it up one or two threads so that there would be two threads showing up top when everything was torqued down. By inserting an allen key into the top of the stud, you could keep the stud from sinking as you tightened the nut. I've included a picture of the setup but its low-res so you can't really zoom in on the rocker hold-down studs. I also attached a pic of the stud that came with the Eddy heads ... they were too short with the Hughes holddown kit. If you spun the stud until it bottomed out in the rocker support, there weren't enough threads up top to extend out past the nut. If you spun the Eddy Stud out enough so the top nut would have full thread engagement, then the stud didn't have many threads into the rocker stand. The AR Eng kit had all the right thread lengths, shank length and the NF thread up top. I should have bought a few more sets when I had the chance. And I seem to remember that Eddy provided a special stud for the rocker stand where the oil feed comes up through. It had a reduced diameter along the unthreaded shank so that more oil could get through. I couldn't find that when I was finally doing the install and Hughes Tech Support said not to worry about it. I didn't and at pre-lube, with the cam lined up properly for each bank, my rockers were getting plenty of oil.

Maybe Andy could share with us the info he put together for ARP when he thought they would put together a proper kit. Or maybe we could do a GroupBuy through Andy. He should have put that info into his book (maybe it's there - I'll have to check so he doesn't tell me to RTFM).

Found some at Orchard Supply that were plenty long enough and threaded all the way to the bolt heads.

You made your own studs by cutting the threaded portion off of bolts? I know farmers who do that kind of stuff when they are broke down in the field but why not just log onto the Summit website and order the correct ARP studs? When you get ARP studs they have the proper coarse/fine thread so you can correctly pull to torque and they have the broached allen end.

Was putting valve train back together over a weekend, noted potential issue and went to hardware store so not to wait. Torque only 25 or 30 pounds,,,,don't even require grade 8's. Double nut tighten's studs ok.

Indeed, the threads in your aluminum heads aren't grade 8. ARP makes nice stuff but it isn't always needed.

Found out that the dorman studs that some have used that have broken causing extensive damage are not actually grade 8 studs, but rather grade 5.5 and heat treated. Not good.

As it turns out, No one makes correct studs for this application, including ARP. Contacted ARP and discussed it with their engineering department and none of their production studs have the length with the threaded area long enough to fully engage the threads in the Stealth heads.

Since the bolts that came in the rocker shaft hold down kit only use 6 of 13 threads available (used a probe and counted the actual threads in the inserts.) I decided to get longer bolts from ARP. The bolts all have a full one inch of threads (16) to fully engage the inserts. This will be more than strong enough.

While about $50 in bolts sounds ridiculous, comparing that to the investment in the rest of the engine makes the expense required. Just not a place to go cheap and have the engine be a grenade.

Your conversation with ARP didn't get you the correct answer. The ARP studs have 3/4 inch grip length which is 2 diameters of thread or 12 threads. That is more than adequate.

Agreed Andy, I think this is getting way overthought here. As mentioned, Summit sells them, I sell them separately, but they arent cheap.I've used H/S rockers for over 25 years, and always used the same thread engagement, didnt need 1" of thread.Before all the ARP stud craze became the rage ( and they are better) we used grade 8 bolts and made thousand and thousand of passes on 9 second cars with bolts. To be fair, the cams now are much more " narly", but we used to run the Lunati .750 roller cam in a lot of engiones,. and it wasnt necessarily friendly.We can think this to death, I'll keep with what has been working fine.

I don't sell the ARP stud kit anymore since I don't add any value to it. I was just buying studs from ARP and selling them to people. Since I had to charge some money to cover my costs the price of the kit was higher than if people just bought the parts from Summit. So I got rid of the middleman (myself).