okay...how do you add attachments?

Elaborate on the "no fire" statement. Please dont tell me you cranked it. if it sparks like described with the key in "run and in "start" then all is good except the dist (reluctor gap/pickup continuity), somewhere between dist and zigzag pullapart connector there's a problem since from the other (body) half (that you used) of the zigzag connector downstream it is OK as it is producing sparks but we might still be missing something. Do NOT fire it till we get this & we are CLOSE!. Do you have another dist you can plug in (/6/sb/bb) & spin the bottom shaft by hand & see if it make it spark just like dragging the male end of the body half along the intake does (in run and in crank/yellow wire pulled from SR).

I am going to pull the distributor out of my Superbee and hook it up. So I should hook it all up as normal, minus the starter relay, pull distributor with cap intact, spin bottom and listen for spark?

hand bump the crank on the Super Bee with a 1&1/4" socket/short extension/breaker bar till the magnet is dead even with the reluctor then remove the dist so you can quickly/easily return it to its original position when you are done with it. (1) turn key "on" (2) helper hold coil wire 1/4" from ground (3) yellow wire pulled from SR (4) spin dist lower shaft by hand (no rotor/cap needed). (5) see if it sparks (6) have someone hold key to "crank" repeat-spin dist (7) see if it sparks

I don't have the underdash harness installed, so no key. I was planning to use a remote starter switch to jump the relay. Is this a problem? I thought running the jumper to the ballast would provide a bypass of the ignition key?

remote starter switch connected to large "batt" stud on SR and other clamp on the brown wire terminal next to it, that'll take care of the cranking. seperately running a jumper to the blue wire (upstream) end of the ballast will feed thru the ballast & on to the coil and & I'm assuming your blue wire there at the ballast T's off & runs to the blue/yellow wire in the ECU pentastar connector to feed the ECU. You would T this blue wire further & go to the alt and to the reg for it to charge during this. (plus a green wire from other alt field terminal to the other terminal in reg). ('70 up system I am assuming) Wouldn't hurt to have a seperate jumper from "batt" stud on SR directly to coil positive primary terminal then have a helper remove it when it starts. You NEED helpers/extra hands.

Yes, my blue wire t's off and goes to blue/yellow wire of ECU. You saying I need to take that blue/yellow and also run to the alt/regulator? I am seriously thinking I am lost...and need to put a new underdash harness in, and take that safer approach...but desperately want to hear this thing run. The car is a 69 Charger R/T SE, and the motor is numbers matching...so I definitely don't want to risk damaging it...

for it to charge yes you would want to T from the blue (ign1 run) wire so the alt would charge but I'm thinking we can get by with a 25 minute breakin on just the battery & we definitely need to keep is simple here

Okay, I need to recruit some extra hands, and am going to start going through my wiring harness and cleaning all the terminals and fixing any suspect wires. I think tomorrow will be better for pulling the Bee's distributor, so lets pick this up then. I want to thank you and everyone for the advice, suggestions, and experience they offer. You helped me revive my a 69 Coronet 500 that I rebuilt the motor on, and I guess since my wiring harness was still intact, I didn't have any break in problems. It fired right off. This Charger...how many times have I told myself not to take on someone elses basket case....

Robert...tried to PM you, you are over your PM limit...?

Here is where we are. I pulled the underdash harness, made lots of repairs, cleaned all terminals, all new fuses and reinstalled. I now have 12 volts to my ballast upstream side, and 6 on the downstream side in the run position. When the key is turned to start, I have 12 on the downstream side. I pulled distributor, and in the start position, get spark out of coil when I rotate it (this is the new distributor, not the Superbee one). I reattached coil wire, pulled number one plug wire and put a spare plug in it, and in the start position, get spark to the plug. I think these are all positive signs. Anything else I need to check prior to reattaching starter wire and firing it up? Awaiting your blessing..
Dave

Dave you have fire in run and in crank so you are set there. gap at .008" initial at 15 with magnet dead even. rotor phasing is in the ballpark I am assuming. dist moderately snugged so it can be turned by hand but not too loose. that's it for dist checks. all the rest of the checks/caveats. keep us posted

After 2 weeks of job-related drama, a high school graduation, I am finally back to work on the Charger. Today I realigned top dead center, re installed distributor, found out my fuel pump is not working...ran a gravity feed can (sorry Robert)...did all my pre-fire checks, and crossed my fingers. Within 2 seconds the sweet sound of a new 440 firing up was heard, and its purring like a kitten now (with header paint burning off, which set off fire alarm in my garage... Car started running hot, and I noticed my heater core had smoke coming out of it, so shut it down. Will bypass heater core, and finish break in after I check all fluids. THANK YOU to all who helped with advice and extra hands...now I can pull the fuel pump and figure that out...

do you have a fan in front of the rad? the smoke is either misting coolant from the core leaking or electrical if the resistor on top of the heater box is possibly touching something it shouldn't