ok, i'll check that out. thanks Mike.

have you ever had the angle CNC corrected?

Yes... the block I'm running now... I was told that one bank was
about 1.25* off.. and they corrected that.. I have checked others
and came up with some less than 1* but let it fly

Not to detract from topic but what is recommended for clearance on new bushing and lifter ..in my case using solid roller ??

I like .001

oh not more clearance .. is there any need to drill a small in side bushing to line up with the oil band of lifter on base circle if Not going with push rod oiling ?

You dont need to add the hole if your not using hyd or PR oiling..
the lifters get plenty of oil from the drain back from the top end

All I will add to this is you better read up and understand how the oiling system works BEFORE attempting this. Joe Blow said this and Jimmy Tightwad said this doesn't help after you forget to drill a hole here or there. Lots of GOOD articles with step by step instructions and its a very easy process. You have two or three different processes going on in this thread.

I had a hole put in mine so I could either do push rod oiling or through the head.

Thats why I suggested reading the MP SB book on it.. it gives you
the oil flow path and goes into how to do it... yes if you do it
wrong or forget to drill a hole, you end up with a spun bearing

Not sure who is charging 900.00 but most I have ever paid is 600.00. Control the oil going to the cam bearings also drilled .030 plugs work for me keeps oil on the mains and rods and not on the cam bearings.

yes and I appreciate all the info here. rereading crabmans post I think I fully understand he's saying to just plug the drivers side with a plug at the #1 or front main journal and don't bother with tubing the pass. side. I like the idea. will any bearings be starved for oil with this simple procedure?
cam journals are grooved for full time oiling and I oil thru the head(restricted) and well as spray bars in the valve covers.

I used that reaming tool from MP. It can be difficult to use. It needs low speed and a good amount of pressure and lube. I used a hand drill and basically had to stand on it to get it to work. The front of the reamer does not cut, it only cuts on the sides. What I did was get the front grooves of the reamer and ground them on an angle to act as a cutter, similar to a drill bit. They are normally flat at the front and don't cut. After grinding an angle on all the front edges, the process was much much easier. It cut the lifter gallery bigger as well as reaming the gallery to the 5/8" so that the 1/2" copper pipe could go in. As stated above half the pipe goes in from the front and half goes in from the rear. Also tap the front gallery for a pipe plug with loc-tite instead of using the cup style core plug. Then you need to peen the copper pipe with an old lifter that is ground down some to make it go in. After the lifter can go in, a little flap wheel to polish the tube so the lifter can freely slide up and down.
This procedure is basically free if you can borrow the reamer tool, but time consuming.
Edit The block needs to be fully cleaned after this process. But we all know that.

best machine quoted me a price for lifter bushing a few years back and I think it was about $650-$700 back then. my machinist does it for $450. best also said it could be worth up to 30hp.
I like the plug the drivers side and let it eat gig.

Regardless of how you do it, I thought this might be handy.

Yes. Thank you. I looked in all of my books and could not find a diagram as good as this one. Looks like all the bearings are feed from the pass side, so no worries starving bearings but just plugging at front #1 main.

That diagram shows the number 1 main getting oil from the drivers side

Yeah, I wouldn't do it that way myself.

yeah, now I know what the cross over tube is for. to get more oil to the front main, but if you did not have the crossover tube and plugged that orifice at the the front main as crabman explained, wouldn't that produce more pressure at that front main. I don't believe I have a problem getting oil to that front main as of now.

Back in the day when Herb and the guys were using a W2 head, 4 speed and leaving off the mat--umm yea they were looking for any advantage in oiling--My points were this: That "kit" Mopar sold was crap--it was expensive --could be sourced local for tons less and just did not work well at all--you wound up tossing the reamer, getting a drill bit and the issues just kept on adding up --and for what? Beceause it was in the Mopar book folks thought they had to do it. Many a good block has been ruined while folks learned how to really do it--You guys are bracket racing--turn it 6500 and shift--WTH!! Goofing around with a $50 stock block--spend big $$$$ to correct the lifters --Duh??? I know that corrected lifter geometry helps some--in a bracket engine who cares??? The slant six car that runs 16 seconds will whip your behind with a baby seat in the back and the same oil that was in there when he bought the car if he can DRIVE--Bracket racers all tend to want to go faster never thinking about winning--that has always floored me! My point was that for the price of a 2 cent drive in plug you could get half the benefit and plug 8 of the 16 leaks. I had 3 race cars with small blocks and made hundreds of rounds with them over 15 years--I never saw any advantage to spending the $$$ so that if an engine was already flying apart that I could keep oil pressure???? That is just silly! If I had an aftermarket block and was doing a max effort small block sure--it is well worth doing but I was able to take a $30 cast 360 crank--turn it up to 7200 for years with zero issues--never even spun a rod bearing--Never hurt an engine ever in all my years of racing--never once!! Blew some Torqueflites to smithereens--Now THAT is where to spend some $$$$!!
To perpetuate the Myth that new guys here NEED to tube a $50 bracket race block is a dis-service and that was my gripe--