gregsdart ,

Care to elaborate on the keeping it small for my deal? Don't disagree by any means, just curios. I am extremely interested in the theory.
Badass car by the way!

My experience, as a pump gas racer, watching the alky guys goof around with that fuel and the problems they have, and breaking out the fuel testers and such...Ain't worth it. All my stuff runs on the same fuel. The ATV, the generator, and the race car...can't beat that. And I only need to take 10g for a weekend of racing vs an entire drum and all the pumps and BS. We won the season on E10 93...I won three big races that year, and anything can be made consistent with time and good parts...

I am simple, and plenty of MBB combo's will make more than enough HP to kill a stock block on pump gas with today's heads. If you have a race fuel motor already, we have found Snow's water injection to work really well on 93 and 14:1...I would go that route long before I went to alky...And we have never had any cooling issues on pump, even round robin.

Somehow my last posts got deleted, so here is a repeat.
My thinking on going small motor was based on getting max life pout of a motor that will not overpower the tires even on a junk track, yet still make enough power to keep you at a 10.00, out of the expensive 9.99 or faster zone. One combo that would be dirt cheap would be to go with a 400 block, 7.10 rods, Ross 1.120 ch flat tops, a 383 crank cut to 3.54 stroke for 426 cubes. The biggest expense are pistons and rods, somebody will probably give you a crank! Compression with flat tops would be about 10.00, for pump 93. A 426 with a set of small port heads ought to make great power and still shift at 6400 rpm, about perfect with your current gears.

I do want to make the car capable of running faster. How I am going to use that has yet to be determined, I foresee a throttle stop in my future. I do not have a power or et goal in mind. The car will cert., it has. I don't like the heat, wearing a 3 layer suit in the middle of the summer does not appeal to me. But I can if I want to!
My local tack switched to Ihra this year and is starting a index program, one class will be 10.00. Yep, interested! I haven't talked to the track or really looked at the Ihra rule book to see what the differences are.
Going from a iron headed 440 to a aluminum headed 4oo will take some weight out and a good set of heads are going to make some more power. I am a bracket racer and have not been bitten by the go faster bug. Running super at my local track I'm being chased 99% of the time and I'm good with that. Lots of low 9, 8 and 7 second cars. I refuse to spend that kind of money to bracket race. If I can't be competitive the car will be for sale.
I understand from everything I've read that alcohol is more consistent. I know absolutely nothing about it. How bad is the learning curve?

Did I hear Throttle Stop If you're looking at SST 10.90??? I would at least shoot for running 9.90 or 1-second under at the very least (more would be even better and at your weight shouldn't be all that hard. .02

Rickster

Thanks for the reply!
The last engine would run on pump, 10:1 comp. with 280@ .050 cam. The po mixed 50/50. I drained the cell and filled it with 93. I've heard many say Race gas is more consistent. I didn't see any change in performance or consistency. 5 gal. fuel cell burnt about a quart a pass. I just topped it off after every pass and mixed the fuel I bought with what was left over in the can from the previous week.
The car has a good cooling system and a alternator. I can sit on the line for a long time without the temp. rising.
The new engine will be a pump gas deal. If for some reason I can't find the consistency I'm looking for I may make the switch.