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First I'd like to throw out the disclaimer; I'm, like most people, thrilled you're making a mopar specific line of parts, and they can't be beat for the money, no doubt.

Making big power with that type crank can obviouly be done and lots are. I know from experience in hundreds of cases, and it's no exaggeration that when you're in a thousand Hp range you can't compare a less expensive crank to a upper level crank over time. We've done literally hundreds of motors over the years for customers in that range and when we use inexpensive cranks they just don't hold up over time. Sure they'll make it right off the bat, but when you look at bearings between two similar HP engines, one with an inexpensive crank, and one with an expensive crank the effects are plain to see. I'm not crapping on your parts, just stating a proven fact. I would buy the best budget would allow for a crank, because in that area, (for me) the long term benefits out weigh the initial savings for that type power.

To ad to that, my 21 year old son is finally showing interest in cars, and we're talking about building a 500 inch motor together on the tightest budget we can just to see what we can get. My intentions are to use your parts and heads for his first build. I'm sure for the combo it will be more than respectable, and will live just fine at it.

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You beat me to it. Sure, that thing made 1450 hp for a few dyno pulls, but what happens when it becomes two piece after 20 laps and destroys the block, the cam gets sawed in half and the heads get borked? Sorry, but I've seen firsthand what happens when a crank fails and it isn't pretty.

When MP was selling 1053 strokers people said the same thing until cranks started breaking and wiping out entire motors. We broke one in half in a S/C dragster that was a fairly mild build.

I'm not a rich guy and can't afford stupid mistakes with this motor. The consensus seems to be that I'm ok with a quality forging. I kinda knew that but was just looking for a few informed opinions.

Thanks again,

Marc

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I can understand your concerns. Even though the engine in the December issue of Hot Rod was built many months ago, and has lasted quite a bit longer than "a few dyno pulls," I can see what you are saying. At the 1400+ horsepower level, it is possible there could be fatigue issues which can affect the long term lifetime expentancy of the parts. To be perfectly honest, we haven't had large numbers of people using our stuff which have had verified dyno results at the 1400+ horsepower range, so there is no fact based and verifyable evidence (supported by multiple builds) that I am aware of to prove yay or nay on this issue.

We have, however, had several dozens of people running our stuff at the 900-1000HP level for over 5 years. Every year these engines are torn down, cranks magged, etc, so at this level it is verifiable that fatigue is not an issue in terms of long term reliability. That's why we "officially" rate the cranks at 1000 horsepower.

Just something else to chew on. Appreciate everyone's objective input.

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Keep up the good work at 440 source, I have one of your 4.5 cranks going in my hemi for my street/strip duster. Im happy with it for the cost.

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We have, however, had several dozens of people running our stuff at the 900-1000HP level for over 5 years. Every year these engines are torn down, cranks magged, etc, so at this level it is verifiable that fatigue is not an issue in terms of long term reliability. That's why we "officially" rate the cranks at 1000 horsepower.

Just something else to chew on. Appreciate everyone's objective input.

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i am in the 900/1000 range and feel i got a good product for the build i had in mind. [440source]

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Billet crank for 1000 hp is a waist of money .

You can make 2500 hp with a forged crank easy.

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hey! I have a billet crank for an 800hp motor

cost me $3641

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Billet crank for 1000 hp is a waist of money .

You can make 2500 hp with a forged crank easy.

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hey! I have a billet crank for an 800hp motor

cost me $3641

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And later if you decide to make 2800 HP you can use the same crank.

In all seriousness, were all very happy to have cranks in the range offered now. There are cranks for every need and budget now, thanks to companies like 440 source. I still think that 1000 HP motors need upper level cranks (just my opinion), but if it meant the difference between having a complete motor, or not because of budget I'd do what I had to. IMO it's never a waste of money, if it's available, to buy the best crank you can afford.

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Billet crank for 1000 hp is a waist of money .

You can make 2500 hp with a forged crank easy.

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hey! I have a billet crank for an 800hp motor

cost me $3641

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Well, now you have an excuse to put a 14-71 blower on top of that Hemi and make some real steam!

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I do have the right compression for blown alcohol, but i don't think the pistons are up for it. I do think about a 14/71 all the time

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From what I was told......I thought a used Bryant fuel crank was good enough too.. But now I have a hole in the side of my KB block because of it.

A used up fuel crank would maybe be good to 5-600HP anything over that I would be scared. You should mag a crank like that and don't bet your engine on a tiny crack.

Ill have the engine out of the car soon so I can show you a 2 piece Billet crank.

I would rather run a 440 source forged crank at 1500HP then a cracked billet. At least you know it will bend before it will break in half.

My new crank is going to be a Callies magnum.. but thats $2000 rather then $599.. and they claim it will handle 1800HP without a problem.. and heres hoping.

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How much HP are you playin' with??1500???Maybe a used crank was not your best choice But a used $3500 crank for $300,one might have it checked,measured & mag'd and still be WAY ahead of the game

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hemi-itis, did your crank already have a standard snout? don't they usually have splined snouts?

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that is my thaught,no keyway slot.