Re: lifting body to install engine from below
[Re: FJR doc]
#1783738
03/20/15 12:33 AM
03/20/15 12:33 AM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,123 CA
crackedback
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,123
CA
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Quote:
I bought brackets from AutoTwirler that attached to the front bumper bracket mounting holes. Purchased some scrap 4x4 steel tubing from a scrap yard. Worked great for engine removal and hopefully as well for installation.
Yep,
No need to spend excessive $ on something so simple to solve and be absolutely safe.
Want an engine dolly, harbor freight 1K moving dolly, another cheap smaller one for under the trans pan and a small piece of plywood to fill the open areas of dolly and some carriage bolts/nuts.
My lift bar is possibly available to be borrowed/rented.
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Re: lifting body to install engine from below
[Re: 5571]
#1783739
03/20/15 12:57 AM
03/20/15 12:57 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
I have a four post lift, I was thinking of doing the install with that, lowering the car over it. I can see how you can get access to the K frame bolts at ground level, but how are you guys getting to holding up the trans? When you have to raise the car to get the trans brace? Wont the engine tilt back on the motor mounts and hit the firewall?
Last time I put a ratchet strap under to hold up the trans while I lifted the car to get the jack under the trans tail.
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Re: lifting body to install engine from below
[Re: crackedback]
#1783741
03/20/15 01:22 AM
03/20/15 01:22 AM
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,661 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,661
Cut and Shoot, TX
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Seems to me that a tiny bit of engineering is in order. If the rear axle is used as the fulcrum, the weight of the front of the car is going to be some fraction of the total car weight, maybe several hundred lbs, especially if the fenders and hood are on the car. But if you simply move the fulcrum to the forward spring brackets, the front of the car will weigh much less. And if you move the fulcrum a few more inches forward, the front of the car will weigh zero or less than zero, meaning the car will actually tilt backwards.
When I can lift the front of the car with my own muscles and without too much effort, I figure the fulcrum is in the right place for a safe lift with an engine crane or whatever.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
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Re: lifting body to install engine from below
[Re: kentj340]
#1783742
03/20/15 01:40 AM
03/20/15 01:40 AM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,123 CA
crackedback
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,123
CA
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Quote:
Seems to me that a tiny bit of engineering is in order. If the rear axle is used as the fulcrum, the weight of the front of the car is going to be some fraction of the total car weight, maybe several hundred lbs, especially if the fenders and hood are on the car. But if you simply move the fulcrum to the forward spring brackets, the front of the car will weigh much less. And if you move the fulcrum a few more inches forward, the front of the car will weigh zero or less than zero, meaning the car will actually tilt backwards.
When I can lift the front of the car with my own muscles and without too much effort, I figure the fulcrum is in the right place for a safe lift with an engine crane or whatever.
You'd be surprised what a spare tire or two and a 100# tool box in the trunk will do to the distribution and actual force required to lift the front end. It's minimal. Nice illustration!
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Re: lifting body to install engine from below
[Re: Evil Spirit]
#1783746
03/20/15 02:21 PM
03/20/15 02:21 PM
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,123 CA
crackedback
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,123
CA
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Quote:
Just remember whatever you engineer to lift the car shell up to install the engine package also may need to support the weight of the assembled front end when you are through. It may have to hold of lift the weight of the complete front end to remove the engine cradle to get the car on stands or the tires. Same for the engine/x-member cradle. You need to design the cradle or the body lift brackets to handle the total weight of the mated package, not just the weight of the single pieces.
A floor jack under each frame rail/t-bar crossmember will lift the front, no need to stress the lift bars unless you don't have an alternative.
I jacked mine back up, then reinstalled a set of bumper bolt mount body dollies.
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Re: lifting body to install engine from below
[Re: burdar]
#1783748
03/22/15 02:25 AM
03/22/15 02:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,559 So Cal
autoxcuda
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So Cal
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Quote:
The engine is in. The 2" x 1/8" angle worked just fine to lift the car. I had the rear supported on body stands at the forward leaf spring mount. There was very little weight on the front. I would however recommend using 1/4" angle. Once the engine was bolted up, I wanted to see what the 1/8" could handle and lifted the car up with the cherry picker. The angle showed a little bit of deflection. It held the weight OK but 1/4" angle would be nice insurance.
Are you just temporarily putting the engine in for mock up? Why are you putting it in before the body is painted?
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Re: lifting body to install engine from below
[Re: kentj340]
#1783751
03/23/15 12:00 AM
03/23/15 12:00 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,716 Baltimore/Denver
64Post
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,716
Baltimore/Denver
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Quote:
Seems to me that a tiny bit of engineering is in order. If the rear axle is used as the fulcrum, the weight of the front of the car is going to be some fraction of the total car weight, maybe several hundred lbs, especially if the fenders and hood are on the car. But if you simply move the fulcrum to the forward spring brackets, the front of the car will weigh much less. And if you move the fulcrum a few more inches forward, the front of the car will weigh zero or less than zero, meaning the car will actually tilt backwards.
When I can lift the front of the car with my own muscles and without too much effort, I figure the fulcrum is in the right place for a safe lift with an engine crane or whatever.
Looks solid on paper but... the farther forward you move the fulcrum (jack stands) the higher you need to jack the car up so the gas tank and bumper don't hit the ground. That increase the angle the frame sits on the jack stands raising the risk of the jack stands walking or completely kicking out. Essentially, you're introducing a side load onto the jack stands. Using the axle as a pivot point introduces no such load as the weight is carried through the CL of the jack stands.
This is a simple process. There is no need to over-engineer or introduce risk into the equation. As mentioned, a couple hundred pounds of weight in the trunk works wonders for over all counter balance, although I've never used CW myself.
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