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Well I can tell you what happens when the rear cam plug is not installed all the way in.... The cam walks until the cam lobe wears,

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Well that's really strange because the timing sprocket usually stops the cam from moving back!!

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Well I can tell you what happens when the rear cam plug is not installed all the way in.... The cam walks until the cam lobe wears,



Well that's really strange because the timing sprocket usually stops the cam from moving back!!



Just going by what I was told by the guy who took the motor apart.

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Hope this is not seen as too dumb a question, but why are solid rollers prone to walk vs flat tappet??

And where is the button installed, front or back?

Anyone have some pics?.......

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Thanks for all the info guys, I understand the physics of the problem now.

I've ordered both the Comp. Cams buttons; nylon and roller, to see which we prefer, and have polished the area where they will contact the cover, (standard sheet metal).

It seems pretty stout with no deflection when I give it a substantial push so I'm not sure of the need for one of the cast covers outside of the timing adjustability feature.

I may weld a reinforcement plate on the outside of the cover if your consensus agrees it would help.

I'm using a Comp Cam's cam and rollers and timing set so compatibility should work when it comes to adjusting end play.

Getting close to installing the cam so stay tuned for more questions, You guys are a big help to all of us needing your expertise and I know I appreciate it!!

Joe

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John, do you plan on measuring the gap then welding the same thickness onto the pump?

I guess that would result in a substantial back-up to the cover.

It would entail at least a couple of assembly/dis-assembly
routines though.

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