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Re: building fast 383's [Re: 69dart] #1765702
03/01/15 10:18 PM
03/01/15 10:18 PM
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383ute Offline OP
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danbob that's what i really wanta see some numbers. what weight is your roadster? are good core blocks easy to come by over there? a good 440 block over here in oz are just to much money. a good block that's had all the checks & machining add good main caps added ect & where on the way to a indy or kb block. factor in weight saving & rusty 40 year old jackets + strength & bore size. a big dollar block sounds like a good option. it'll just take me 5 years to get one. hey guys keep the NA specs comming please.

Re: building fast 383's [Re: 383ute] #1765703
03/01/15 11:29 PM
03/01/15 11:29 PM
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danbob Offline
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The car is a 70 duster weighs about 3400ish with driver.
I found the core engine for 200 bucks on craigslist. There are still good deals if your patient.


How much hp are you looking to make ?

Re: building fast 383's [Re: danbob] #1765704
03/02/15 12:46 AM
03/02/15 12:46 AM
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383ute Offline OP
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i really hope this 383 of mine makes 500hp @ the engine. with decent headers i'd like to see 540ish. with a cam change i'm sure there's abit more there. i do have access to a mushroom lifter mini express cam but then i'd need all the other stuff to go with it. cash is the cork in my build. if a solid cam would make a decent jump in performence i'd swap the old mopar one out, as i used the mopar one as a good base line because it's so hard to find good info about 383 builds specialy with ez heads. i haven't found any info about that combo. in my head i'm thinking less cubes & short stroke = less wheel spin & what we lack down low we'll make up top. i'm very tempted to build another race 383 or 400 long rod motor & rev it to the moon . but that screams aftermarket block & weight loss.

Last edited by 383ute; 03/02/15 12:58 AM.
Re: building fast 383's [Re: dvw] #1765705
03/02/15 03:42 PM
03/02/15 03:42 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

A 383 with stock heads, good pistons, and the right cam would make good power with a 75 MM turbo. With eddy heads I bet you could make 700+ @15psi.
Doug




It could make that kind of HP , but the big question is ... FOR HOW LONG ??


+700HP in a boosted STOCK 383 block sounds scary to me ...

Re: building fast 383's [Re: 383ute] #1765706
03/02/15 03:47 PM
03/02/15 03:47 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

i really hope this 383 of mine makes 500hp @ the engine. with decent headers i'd like to see 540ish. with a cam change i'm sure there's abit more there. i do have access to a mushroom lifter mini express cam but then i'd need all the other stuff to go with it. cash is the cork in my build. if a solid cam would make a decent jump in performence i'd swap the old mopar one out, as i used the mopar one as a good base line because it's so hard to find good info about 383 builds specialy with ez heads. i haven't found any info about that combo. in my head i'm thinking less cubes & short stroke = less wheel spin & what we lack down low we'll make up top. i'm very tempted to build another race 383 or 400 long rod motor & rev it to the moon . but that screams aftermarket block & weight loss.




Look in the tech archive , Dwayne porter built a 383 that was destined for stock eliminator that ended up making 500HP with unported 906's. He ended up having to add valve reliefs because he had negative piston to valve clearance. Once he added the valve reliefs and installed a good intake and carb it made 500hp.

If you have access to a 400 block that would be the better choice , but the hard part is making compression with the short stroke , think small chambers and domed pistons.

If you have a 440 crank and a 400 block that would be the way to go on the cheap.

Re: building fast 383's [Re: JohnRR] #1765707
03/02/15 08:38 PM
03/02/15 08:38 PM
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383ute Offline OP
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Look in the tech archive , Dwayne porter built a 383 that was destined for stock eliminator that ended up making 500HP with unported 906's. He ended up having to add valve reliefs because he had negative piston to valve clearance. Once he added the valve reliefs and installed a good intake and carb it made 500hp.

If you have access to a 400 block that would be the better choice , but the hard part is making compression with the short stroke , think small chambers and domed pistons.

If you have a 440 crank and a 400 block that would be the way to go on the cheap.

thanks . well that build in the tech archives is what my friend & i want his 383 to go like in his 72 cuda. which i'll start porting in about a hour.
as for mine. am i under estermating the power for my ez headed 383 ? . i hope so . indy says bolt on 100 hp. originly i wanted to use a victor inlet manifold, good custom headers & 3 1/2" exhaust & 850-950 carb, was expecting 570-600hp @7000rpm ish. now i've drawn a line in the sand , & will just use what i've got. i'm still up in the air about cam & stall, there both $200-300 items.

& yes it was ment to be a stroker till if found out i had 2 holes into the water jackets on 2 cylinders & needed resleeving. that's where my stroking money went. & i have that option down the track or turbo. & turbo wins hands down. i'm wanting mid to low 11's i just don't know what to expect. 3200 ish lbs 3.9 gear. i hope i'm underestermating by 40 hp & by removing tail gate, pasenger seat & exhaust i'll drop easy 100-140 lbs.

Re: building fast 383's [Re: 383ute] #1765708
03/02/15 09:56 PM
03/02/15 09:56 PM
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Brookeville, Md
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indy says bolt on 100 hp.
I don't know how anybody can claim this w/o knowing anything about the build. You aren't going to gain 100hp w/o some serious improvements to the rest of the motor. IF you are looking at running 11's there is no need for a boosted 383. And if you can get a decent performance stall for 2-300 I'll take 2. You MIGHT be able to find a used 3800 for $300. W/ a 383 and at your weight you'll probably need 4500+.

Re: building fast 383's [Re: Mr.Yuck] #1765709
03/03/15 02:20 AM
03/03/15 02:20 AM
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Quote:

indy says bolt on 100 hp.
I don't know how anybody can claim this w/o knowing anything about the build. You aren't going to gain 100hp w/o some serious improvements to the rest of the motor. IF you are looking at running 11's there is no need for a boosted 383. And if you can get a decent performance stall for 2-300 I'll take 2. You MIGHT be able to find a used 3800 for $300. W/ a 383 and at your weight you'll probably need 4500+.




The video I posted above he claims low 10s at upper 130s and #3600 with stock 383 and ebay turbo

Re: building fast 383's [Re: Mr.Yuck] #1765710
03/03/15 09:40 AM
03/03/15 09:40 AM
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383ute Offline OP
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Quote:

indy says bolt on 100 hp.
I don't know how anybody can claim this w/o knowing anything about the build. You aren't going to gain 100hp w/o some serious improvements to the rest of the motor. IF you are looking at running 11's there is no need for a boosted 383. And if you can get a decent performance stall for 2-300 I'll take 2. You MIGHT be able to find a used 3800 for $300. W/ a 383 and at your weight you'll probably need 4500+.




i have a 9" 3500 rpm stall already, still unused, i can take it back to the converter shop & have it modified for $200.
i haven't ran my engine yet so i could reuse the lifters, so i'd only need a camshaft $200 ish .
i want my current engine-car combo to run at leased 11.5.
using a turbo i'd expect 9 second et's.
of course 100 bolt on hp would require other extencive mods ( i believe i'd be close enough to get gains heading towards 100hp )
& yes a stall converter of 4000+ rpm probably would be best i'm still lerning. the whole way i've been trying to keep my build streetable but on the other hand want it to be fast. my good friends always try to steer me down the wrong path. even today my good mate was trying to convince me to use the mopar mini express cam. we needed to get a umpire ( our local mopar engine builder ) he said run it as it is. & start saving for a turbo .

Last edited by 383ute; 03/03/15 09:50 AM.
Re: building fast 383's [Re: 451Cuda] #1765711
03/03/15 10:38 AM
03/03/15 10:38 AM
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Brookeville, Md
Mr.Yuck Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

indy says bolt on 100 hp.
I don't know how anybody can claim this w/o knowing anything about the build. You aren't going to gain 100hp w/o some serious improvements to the rest of the motor. IF you are looking at running 11's there is no need for a boosted 383. And if you can get a decent performance stall for 2-300 I'll take 2. You MIGHT be able to find a used 3800 for $300. W/ a 383 and at your weight you'll probably need 4500+.




The video I posted above he claims low 10s at upper 130s and #3600 with stock 383 and ebay turbo




yes that is cool video, however somebody claiming there heads can provide a bolt on 100hp claim is bee ess. Maybe if somebody built a 500 inch race motor and topped w/ a set of stock 516 heads. But who does that?
That turbo set-up is exactly what I'd do if I was going to go boosted.

Re: building fast 383's [Re: Mr.Yuck] #1765712
03/03/15 12:01 PM
03/03/15 12:01 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

Maybe if somebody built a 500 inch race motor and topped w/ a set of stock 516 heads. But who does that?





there is probably a half dozen guys on this sight that have done it ...

Re: building fast 383's [Re: JohnRR] #1765713
03/03/15 01:51 PM
03/03/15 01:51 PM
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From all the studying and collating of data here's where my thoughts are:

Use the turbo to build power at lower rpm than normally aspirated. Big heads on a small motor will need mega rpm to make big power. Mega rpm means mega $$$ (even Australian dollars) into the valvetrain. The turbo takes care of the mass airflow you need at a lower rpm.

Build the turbo motor with 9:1 compression and squish. That will get you moving better before the turbo spools up, and the squish helps octane sensitivity.

No way would I suggest using 440 rods in a 383 stroke motor that wasn't going to see 9000 rpm. A 2:1 Rod/Stroke ratio isn't meant for a street car. Look at all the latest Enginemasters builds. 4" strokes with 6.2" rods, R/S ratios in the 1.45 - 1.55 range. Sure that's not what Smokey said, but the dyno doesn't lie the way the competition is set up.

Actually I'd think seriously about offset grinding the journals to 2.20" and using bigblock chevy +.250 rods, 6.385 long. That's get you a little more stroke, a really good cheap rod, and a little shorter piston that needs to be custom or semi-custom anyway. This makes the most sense to me, even though it leaves the R/S ratio at around 1.8. The other way would be using the stock 383 rods and putting your money into really good light pistons and rod bolts. You're not going to hurt that stock rod from compressive loading. It's the rod bolts and high rpm that expose the rod's weaknesses.
But the 6.385 rod and 3.50" stroke looks really good to me, and cheap.

Do everything you can to keep the intake charge cool. This is really important for max power but also for getting the engine to live. I am thinking about methanol or E85 injection right after the turbo compressor outlet, coming on when the boost hits a certain psi.

Sounds like you already have a pretty big stock of information, hope this helps.

I recently drove an old 2.3liter turbocharged Volvo sedan. Boy do I love turbos! especially at altitude. If you use your head you can make so much more power per dollar with a turbo that it's crazy.

R.

Re: building fast 383's [Re: dogdays] #1765714
03/03/15 08:09 PM
03/03/15 08:09 PM
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383ute Offline OP
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thanks dogdays. that's the advice & direction i need. i guess i was second guessing my cam mostly, after reading so much about old mopar grinds this & old mopar grinds that. while i was porting the 516 heads yesterday my mate had my MP big block b-rb engines book out. after compering my parts to the books drag racing package recommendations, going off that my ute should go 10.5 et as is. i'll take 1 second off that because i'm only a back yard wrencher & my chassi won't be as spot on as theres. should i start a new thead about the milder cuda build

Re: building fast 383's [Re: dogdays] #1765715
03/03/15 08:44 PM
03/03/15 08:44 PM
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383ute Offline OP
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Actually I'd think seriously about offset grinding the journals to 2.20" and using bigblock chevy +.250 rods, 6.385 long. That's get you a little more stroke, a really good cheap rod, and a little shorter piston that needs to be custom or semi-custom anyway. This makes the most sense to me, even though it leaves the R/S ratio at around 1.8. The other way would be using the stock 383 rods and putting your money into really good light pistons and rod bolts. You're not going to hurt that stock rod from compressive loading. It's the rod bolts and high rpm that expose the rod's weaknesses.
But the 6.385 rod and 3.50" stroke looks really good to me, and cheap.

these exact idears are also floating in my head also. my pistons are nos old 1972 forged arias ( not sure of spelling ) heavy yes but still 80 grams lighter than stock cast pistons. & my b motor rods are beam polished, shot peened, honed for floating pins, with oil hole drilled, resized after fitting arp wave lock 3/8 bolts, & lightend 383 forged crank. crank, pistons & rods about 4 1/2 pounds lighter than stock. would that do in your opinion ? i was thinking at leased replacing my rods for the larger 7/16 bolts & using new main caps & girdle ? the engine builder i know surgested really looking into a aftermarket block.
off set grinding my crank for lighter chev rods & extra light piston
there's at leased 2 more pounds of weight saving there. wow .

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