So I went to the junkyard and grabbed an EGR solenoid for less than $15. I'll let you know how it goes once I get the thing all put back together. I pulled the water pump off last night and the threads on the bolt were a little messed up but I tried threading another bolt of the same thread and it felt good and firm. So then I notice I used the wrong bolt in that spot. It was just a little bit too short and wouldn't thread in enough, hence the leaking and stretching of the threads. So I'm going to just clean up the threads and put it back together. I got lucky on that one!

That's what happens when the machine shop takes all the nicely labelled baggies of bolts and hardware and takes them out the bags and dump them in the bottom of my oil pan even though they didn't use them...

Ok so I replaced the EGR solenoid and EGR is functioning now. Fixed the EVAP leak and passed the EVAP test. But I failed the smog. The only driveability issue I'm having is hesitation when I first hit the gas from a stop. I came home and checked the flash codes and I've got 34 and 52. I already put a new VSS in. I'm going to take a look at the VSS circuit and see what I can see. But I have no idea what the Internal Control Failure is.

I've got high HC and CO Nox is good.


Lambda calc say's it's at .729

53 Internal control failure
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits

little more info for you

http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-53.html

If I am reading this correctly the hydrocarbons are high but the Co is way ouT in left field. engine running rich?

how do the spark plugs look?

Oh man. When I checked out the wiring when the engine was out the wires going to the o2 sensor were bare and shorting on eachother. I wonder if that did damage to the computer.

Again did you diagnose the back pressure EGR system correctly? Its not about a guess. Its a guess on how many other parts you want to blame/swap and none fix the problem. I try to help.

lol?

Lol, Lol.

Anyways..

I thought it was 53 but I see on the paper I wrote on when I was in the truck it says 52. So it's 52.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes/faults/code-51-52.html

Basically, running rich, which your smog test agrees with. Not likely the O2 sensor here. Run thru the driveability troubleshooting guide on the link. Might be something like coolant temp sensor stuck cold or similar.

So the VSS tested bad. I swapped it and it definitely helped with the hesitation I'm getting when I give it just a little bit of gas. But it's still smoother with the EGR capped off. I drove it around the block a few times and it's running good except for the very slight hesitation on acceleration. I'm curious to see if the rich code comes back or if it's fixed and I should try to smog it again. I could just take it in to my friends shop and try to smog it again but hes given me so many free tests I really want to have it right before I take it to him again. I checked the codes after driving it and it only has 12 for battery/computer has been unplugged which is normal since it was unplugged when I was testing the VSS circuit.

Passed smog with everything under the averages. So very clean. But I still do have some acceleration hesitation and idle feels a little bit shaky. But runs perfect with the EGR capped off.

I know you probably can't in Cali, but I yanked all my smog off an 88 R/C I had and it ran 10x better and still avg'd 17.2mpg combined. I had the same issues, ran like poo poo sputtered, hesitated, I could tune it out so I yanked all the unnecessary garbage and problem solved.

Ya I wouldn't ask my friend to pass a truck like that so I would be looking at paying $100 extra every other year to bribe some other smog tech to pass it. I would rather just fix it right.


I swear it's running hotter than normal and it boiled over when we did the smog. I'm sure it wouldn't have boiled over if we had put the fan in front of it but oh well. When I worked there we didn't bother to put the fan on unless it was really hot that day or the vehicle looked suspect. It didn't really get that hot and it was clean so the test was short. But it did boil over after he turned it off. And it was leaking out the radiator cap. No other leaks. Made me think bad radiator cap or bad fan clutch. But the radiator cap is new. I cleaned it off and topped off the coolant and drove it all around today. It runs perfect on the freeway but when I get stopped at a light it doesn't overheat but it does seem to inch up a little bit. Makes me think fan clutch. Also, everything else it new.

Cap
Radiator
Hoses
Thermostat
CTS
Water Pump

Other than the running hot issue it does still have hesitation on acceleration at low speeds, on the freeway it runs perfect. It almost feels like I'm driving with the E-brake on until I get past 35 or so. Feels a bit underpowered.

Clue 1.

Oh, that's helpful.

Swapped out the fan clutch and the running hot is fixed. Still has hesitation on acceleration but I've got the EGR capped off so it's running perfect. But I still want to find out why the EGR is too much or too soon or whatever the issue is. I have tested the EGR valve itself for operation with a vacuum pump and it makes the engine shutter when I apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve. The solenoid is working giving EGR only when it hit the gas. I'm getting 18-20 lbs after the transducer when I give it gas. Not sure what else to try. I noticed today that the back of the oil pan was covered in oil again. I noticed when I got the truck back not only was the timing off so bad it was backfiring it was also over full on oil. Oil is up over 1/2 in past full. Is that really enough to make a seal fail? I don't think it is and I'm hoping it's just the oil filter plate leaking again but Idk. I cleaned it all off and drove it around and don't see anything yet so I'll have to drive it more and maybe get some UV dye to figure that one out.

I doubt unhooking the EGR will cause your vehicle to fail emissions inspection. You can leave it on and hook it up when you need the test. I've had cars pass w/ a non-operational smog pump. Sorry I can't help. The one and only thing we have good going on here in Md. is that if you tag your vehicle as Historic, you don't need that silly emissions inspection anymore.

Yea I know I could just leave it how it is now but I want it all fixed up right. You can get a historic tag in cali too.

"These special plates are issued, upon request, for motor vehicles manufactured after 1922 which are at least 25 years old and of historic interest."
-CA DMV

But my pickup is only an 89.

/And actually unhooking your EGR will cause it to fail for NOx most likely. But ya I could hook it up for the test.