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Use anything BUT a diaphram (Chivvy) type clutch, go with the original borg and beck style. I have used Ram, Zoom, and Hayes for the last 30 years and I usually go back to Hays. I have a friend who rebuilds the pressure plates for me so I don't have to buy them anymore.

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Use anything BUT a diaphram (Chivvy) type clutch, go with the original borg and beck style. I

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Yepp, yepp, yepp. I have had diaphram clutches that ust flat out wouldnt work. Install a B&B and youre back to Driving a B&B plate with a sintered iron clutch disc is alot of "fun" on the street.

Take personal experiences with a grain of salt when it comes to brands. Never know how someone set one up, and used (or abused) it.

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Nobody likes Hays anymore?

I had one in my Duster for 8+ years with no problems. I believe it was the street/strip version.

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Same here, I've had a street/strip Hays forever. They may be old school but so am I. 340 4-speed 4:10

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....I run a 10.95 McLeod diaphragm with the overcenter spring in place and an adjustable positive stop on the clutch pedal in the Cuda. This gives a light modern feel and the stop prevents overcentering the clutch diaphragm.....

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You still can't beat this set up for the money and performance. Handles 400 rwhp with ease
Rochester Clutch and Brake
585-232-3717

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CENTERFORCE dual friction for my Duster

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We have installed a butt load of centerforce dual frictions with ZERO issues.

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Ted,
Due to your advanced years you might want to inquire about the amount of pedal pressure/force to engage the clutch on each brand.

My Hays clutch setup was fairly stiff when compared to a standard clutch.

Just looking after the well being of your left leg and knee here.

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I think a Mcleod B&B plate with a street/strip rag disc should do the trick.
Jamie Passon will set you up with a good Mcleod clutch at a fair price.
Gus

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Just a couple of comments..
a. Make sure you have the proper Z-bar so the fork push rod runs parallel to the bellhousing
b. Add a torque strap, a big help for keeping the Z-bar and nylon bearings together

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b. Add a torque strap, a big help for keeping the Z-bar and nylon bearings together

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It may but that is a custom disc manufactured by RC&B. There are even better friction materials than what is in the picture. The 10.95 p-p in the pic is a 2800lb clutch that currently resides behind a 400 rear wheel hp stroker and the pedal effort is easy.

For the custom p-p you get to decide how much pressure you want ie 2200lbs, 2600 lbs etc. Each p-p is carefully and individually manufactured, and the person who does the work has over 25 yrs experience. Being around since 1924 allows RC&B to build clutches on fixturing that is precise and exact, unlike the mass produced clutches of today.

Too many variables for one size fits all.
If you have an off the shelf car then use an off the shelf one size fits all clutch.

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I agree, give Sammy Jr. a call at Rochester clutch and brake. I had a custom one built for my 600hp 570Tq stroker. and it cost less than what you listed above. You won't be sorry. Here is a link to the website: http://www.rochesterclutch.com/racing.shtml

Here is a pic of my clutch.... Yeah diaphrams are for Women and Chivvy's huh ...

Notice the fully balanced marks.