After only being used in the yard for trash and such for several years I got in my 99 Dakota awhile back and it cranked as usual but as soon as I released the key it cut off. I repeted the scenario several times and then began to rev it up and drop it in gear in one fluent motion to get it moved to where I wanted it. Since then I have really not messed with it much. I sold my 97 to help buy another car so it is time to put this one back in service. I was told that these ignition switchs go bad fairly regularly and it acts like that. I haven't had a chance to check anything but it would make sense if there is a separate feed for the run after you let the key come back from the start position. Is there a fused ignition feed?

What say you?

Thanks in advance, Kevin

Maybe someone in the weekday crowd knwos the answer?

Thanks

The old "dual-ballast" resistors used to do that too. The "run" circuit would burn out. BUT, the "crank" circuit would still be good for start-up.

Does the rest of the vehicle not have a "+" feed? Like the radio and other stuff that would be up in "run".

You could take a testlight to the bottom of the column, at the interconnect, and see if there is output from the ignition switch for a quick check.

I believe the radio and all is still powered but it has been long enough since I meshed with it that I don't remember. Good point about checking output at the base of the column. Really need to start at the coil and trace backwards.

Check the battery.If its going bad they wont run unless you hold the gas and brake together.Low batterys do strange things to them.Never really had problems at the shop with ignitions.Rocky

Good to know thanks. As for the battery, I use the one out of my driver Dakota so if it operated it I would think it was fine for this one. Cant say what it aint though until I can say what it is.

when you release the key, do you have your foot on the gas?
Mine seems to loose its idle setting after sitting for a while of non use and I need to reteach it. You basically start the truck and push the gas keeping it at about 1500 rpms for about 15-20 seconds..let off if it dies try it again..sometimes you may have to go as high as 2k. It may take 2-3 times before it learns.. Just a thought

That's a good thought, the computer adjust to carbon build up over time when one is in regular use and when you disconnect the battery for an extended period of time it returns to base setting and sometimes it will take a drive cycle or 2 to relearn where it lieks to idle. In my case I have tried foot feeding it to keep it running and even feeding the throttle body to eliminate a fuel issue, it is the ignition losing power just not sure where or why. Should be simple enough to track down just hoping someone would say oh yea it the XXXX they do that all the time. I was hoping maybe there was a fuse or relay or something. Pretty much just being lazy.

Sounds like it might be the Idle Air Control Motor on the back of the throttle body.

What happens when cranking if you open the throttle to WOT and hold the key in start as rpm spikes, then release the key back to run while keeping the throttle wide open?

battery was dead and out, the computer has memory loss, clean throttle body and drive it, the computer will readjust, all will be fine. give the computer time to do it's thing.

Uh, ya what he said.

I went back and reread my original post, because everyone was running down the idle path and I guess I wasn't clear. It starts and runs when it is in the start position, when I allow the key to relax it cuts off due to lack of power to the ignition, I can rev it to the moon and when the key relaxes it cuts off regardless if I have it matted or not. I am the one who first mentioned the carbon in explanation or respond to an earlier post. I am well aware of the effects of carbon as well as the cure and how to overcome it if the computer has lost memory, I also knwon pretty much how the IAC works which is why I questioned how it could have an effect on my issue.

Here again is the sympton, engine cranks and runs fine when the key is the start position as soon as the key is released it dies from lack or power to the ignition. I was able to move it only by revving it and letting the residual RPMs move it a few feet at a time as it was winding down. Again, it cuts off regardless of the foot feed and it is not effected by feeding the throttle body for a lack of fuel condition. It is spark that is making it cut off not carbon and anything fuel related. Sorry if I wasn't clear on this. My original question was are ignition switches in these trucks known to fail in this manner, which i think Rock said no and secondly is there an ignition fuse or relay I should check.

Thanks for your patience.

No need for ya'll to apologise and I don't mean to sound like I don't appreciate the input. Although I am familiar with much of the late model stuff I am not by any means an expert on computers or injection, in fact very little working knowledge. I have been a writer, manager, director and now analyst in dealerships for over 30 years so although I haven't turned many bolts of the later stuff, I have always had to explain it to the customer like I knew what I was talking about. Old stuff is my bag and I will fix my late stuff when needed due to the fact that I am cheap.

As for the issue, I haven't really checked much of anything as for relays and such, I did spray carb cleaner down the throttle body as the key was being released in order to make sure it wasn't a fuel issue. If it were the fuel shutdown or relay wouldn't run until the pressure bled off rather than a complete shut off like ignition, kinda peter out. Right, wrong or otherwise I am convinced it is in the ignition. Usually when the key doesn't return to run the radio and AC wont energize and I don't remember that being the case, again soemthing I have seen in the past so I think it would have registered on me but who knows. I should be able to easily jump power to the coil and at least verify I'm thinking right.

Guess I misunderstood your original post. Sounds like it could be the ignition switch.
Looking at my 97 factory manual there a start and a run circuit coming off of the switch.

You know I did not even pay attention to what eng it is. But on yours it should have a seperate auto shutdown relay and fuel pump relay as both are controlled by the same ground in the PCM but the auto shutdown relay will power the coil or coils and fuel injectors on some years and the fuel pump relay will power the fuel pump and may power the fuel injectors on some years. In therory if the PCM does not ground the circuit both relays should turn off as they should splice into one ground back to the PCM but its two seperate relays. If the shutown relay would have say dirty contacts and loose the connection through the contacts after the eng starts and starts charging from the higher voltage and current going through the contacts and heating them up after the alt starts charging and the voltage now runs over 14 (I had this happen before ) then it could loose the ign but still have fuel with the fuel pump relay still working as the auto shutdown relay would stop sending power to the coil or coils depending on the eng. Its just a senario but thats why I wondered if the coil or coils are still getting power after it starts. You could put a voltmeter on the coil's feed wire from the auto shutdown relay and see if it looses the power at the coil's before it quits. You can also check the 12 volt ign run feeds to the PCM for power after the key returns to run. Actually on problems like this if I dont find any related TSB's or have seen the problem before I usually get the wireing book and start checking whatever circuits I feel need checking with this problem. I remember on Intrepid cars we would get many that would drive in but the cust would say it has no heater , AC or turn signals and I had sticking ign switches cause that alot as they would not turn back all the way at times and I had a few stop running while driving from ign switch dirty contacs but I dont remember having that problem with any Dakota's but that dont mean it cant happen. Ron

Thanks for the input guys, I need to start testing some stuff just no real time. For the record, 5.2 Auto 4WD with all the buttons and bows.