|
Re: 416 INDY 245RP Head Dyno #'s.....
[Re: a408swinger]
#173058
12/23/08 05:20 PM
12/23/08 05:20 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
OP
moparts member
|
OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
|
Quote:
Why such high timing? What was the difference with say 33-34* vs. 39*
Here was 33 degrees....on E85
INDY CNC heads always seem to like timing.
|
|
|
Re: 416 INDY 245RP Head Dyno #'s.....
[Re: 69Cuda340S]
#173060
12/23/08 09:41 PM
12/23/08 09:41 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
OP
moparts member
|
OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
|
Quote:
Nice write up. I bet that guy is gonna be happy now.
I hope so, he was there watching it run & took it home with him 
|
|
|
Re: 416 INDY 245RP Head Dyno #'s.....
[Re: 340RICK]
#173062
12/24/08 10:48 AM
12/24/08 10:48 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
OP
moparts member
|
OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
|
Quote:
Nice Job Ryan......... I bet that dude thinks your a gwad 
A 100HP is not easy to come by 
Not hard when your rings don't seal.
Barton told him you can't put a roller cam in 59* R3.... this must be about the 20th one I've done. 
These Advanced Profile Stainless Total Seal rings were new to me.... He wanted to do a small N20 shot, we could'nt get Hellfires in this bore size, so Total Seal talked me into these stainless AP's. They seemed to seal up quicker than the normal moly stuff. Usually it takes about 4 pulls to fully seat the traditional Moly stuff, these seem to be set after 2 pulls.
|
|
|
Re: 416 INDY 245RP Head Dyno #'s.....
[Re: RyanJ]
#173064
12/24/08 05:43 PM
12/24/08 05:43 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 916
SE Washington
Forest
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 916
SE Washington
|
Quote:
Quote:
Nice Job Ryan......... I bet that dude thinks your a gwad
A 100HP is not easy to come by
Not hard when your rings don't seal.
Barton told him you can't put a roller cam in 59* R3.... this must be about the 20th one I've done.
Do you mind sharing any pics of how you clearanced the block for the roller lifters?
|
|
|
Re: 416 INDY 245RP Head Dyno #'s.....
[Re: Forest]
#173065
12/24/08 05:46 PM
12/24/08 05:46 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
OP
moparts member
|
OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Nice Job Ryan......... I bet that dude thinks your a gwad
A 100HP is not easy to come by
Not hard when your rings don't seal.
Barton told him you can't put a roller cam in 59* R3.... this must be about the 20th one I've done.
Do you mind sharing any pics of how you clearanced the block for the roller lifters?
Same way I do them all on the CNC....
|
|
|
Re: 416 INDY 245RP Head Dyno #'s.....
[Re: RyanJ]
#173068
12/24/08 11:38 PM
12/24/08 11:38 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,840
Flint, Michigan
B1Fish540
master
|
master
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,840
Flint, Michigan
|
Quote:
Quote:
Nice Job Ryan......... I bet that dude thinks your a gwad
A 100HP is not easy to come by
Not hard when your rings don't seal.
Barton told him you can't put a roller cam in 59* R3.... this must be about the 20th one I've done.
These Advanced Profile Stainless Total Seal rings were new to me.... He wanted to do a small N20 shot, we could'nt get Hellfires in this bore size, so Total Seal talked me into these stainless AP's. They seemed to seal up quicker than the normal moly stuff. Usually it takes about 4 pulls to fully seat the traditional Moly stuff, these seem to be set after 2 pulls.
Ryan, just wondering what your take on what the bore finnish shoud be. My engine builder was of opinion that there should be an almost a polished finnish. He said he is open to other approaches but that this has worked for him in the past.
I know you mentioned that the bore was overly cross-hatched. So, what is the "right" way to finnish the bore for best ring seating? Thanks! 
|
|
|
Re: 416 INDY 245RP Head Dyno #'s.....
[Re: B1Fish540]
#173071
12/25/08 10:21 AM
12/25/08 10:21 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
RyanJ
OP
moparts member
|
OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,547
State College, PA
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Nice Job Ryan......... I bet that dude thinks your a gwad
A 100HP is not easy to come by
Not hard when your rings don't seal.
Barton told him you can't put a roller cam in 59* R3.... this must be about the 20th one I've done.
These Advanced Profile Stainless Total Seal rings were new to me.... He wanted to do a small N20 shot, we could'nt get Hellfires in this bore size, so Total Seal talked me into these stainless AP's. They seemed to seal up quicker than the normal moly stuff. Usually it takes about 4 pulls to fully seat the traditional Moly stuff, these seem to be set after 2 pulls.
Ryan, just wondering what your take on what the bore finnish shoud be. My engine builder was of opinion that there should be an almost a polished finnish. He said he is open to other approaches but that this has worked for him in the past.
I know you mentioned that the bore was overly cross-hatched. So, what is the "right" way to finnish the bore for best ring seating? Thanks!
We use a Sunnen SV10 Diamond hone.... obviously we use a TQ plate & we finish with 500 grit diamonds. Then plateau brush the cylinders......my machinist does not own a profilometer, but he has access to one & has borrowed it a few times to check the RA of various projects we have worked on like deck finish & bore finish etc. Normally the 500 grit diamonds & a plateau finish is in the 18 RA range. The computerized diamond hone is able to measure taper & OOR as it is honing unlike a traditional stone hone that just moves up & down at a set rate & removes set amt of material everywhere. The diamond honing head "senses" pressure changes on it.. The Diamond hone has computer graph showing real time cyl wall taper as it is honing, it shows where the high & low spots are in the cyl, & it will dwell in certain areas to straighten the cyl.
Most performance rings today want the cyl wall finish almost as smooth as you can get it. Anywhere form 10-24 RA normally.
I dunno what the cyl wall finish was on this R3 when it came to me but it was second worst one I've ever seen. It had seven dyno pulls on it & you could take your fingernail & drag it across the cross hatching & it would "catch" your fingernail. My machinist looked at it & said it almost appeared that they never changed from their roughing stones to their finishing stones when it was honed, but the size was on, so it was like they did the whole job with a roughing stone. The moly rings did'nt like that at all.....
& No the dyno shop I use does not have a wideband, they read EGT's on their methanol Sprint car engines they build daily. I am getting a set of superflow EGT bungs for my new dyno headers here now that I finally got them operational.
|
|
|
|
|
Matt
