Re: frozen brake drum
[Re: SportF]
#1681909
10/06/14 11:22 PM
10/06/14 11:22 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,485 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,485
north of coder
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as was said previously by another member, "i don't want to be a butt ", well i don't want to be either. i'm just relaying what i have learned[mostly the hard way]from over 45 years of messing with this stuff. you guys need to re-look at the above pic mr. kunkle posted showing the swedge before & after. at the minium, you WILL make the drum hole larger pressing the stud out without getting rid of the swedge first. it will also leave a burr on the drum hole which ,unless removed,will not allow the drum to reseat on the hub correctly, causing wobble of the braking surface. swedging was used on almost all chrysler drums. in fact, on page #5-32 of the 1985 fsm for d&w 100-300 & ramcharger, in the front disc brake assembly, it clearly shows the swedging of the studs in a disc hub, and those are not 2 separate pieces. it looks like chrysler swedged most front drum/disc studs up untill late model disc/hub setups came into being.
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Re: frozen brake drum
[Re: moparx]
#1681910
10/07/14 02:35 PM
10/07/14 02:35 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348 Texas Hill Country
Centerline
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348
Texas Hill Country
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Hi guys, I wrote the Wiki article where John Kunkel got the pic of the hub above. The article was showing how to convert the rear brakes to slip on drums on pre-65 8 3/4" rears with tapered axles. Although I wrote this article about pre-65 tapered axle rear ends, this procedure for removing the studs should work on any swedged stud hub. First, you need to cut the stud off flush with the outside of the drum. You can use a cut-off wheel for this or a hack saw; just make sure you have them flush with the drum surface. Then, center punch each one and drill a 3/16" - 1/4" hole in the center of each stud about a quarter inch deep. This will relieve the stress and allow the swedged area to curl in on itself when the stud is pressed out of the hub. You need to do this for all five studs. Then from this point, it is a simple procedure to press out the studs. With this done you now have the hubs and drums separated. Remember this procedure will basically ruin your drums so don't use it unless you plan to replace them. I'm not sure post 64 Mopars used the same size stud, but if so the rest of this will apply. You now need to press in new studs. The stock lug bolts on these old Mopars are 1/2-20 UNF thread with a 0.622" knurl. The knurl is the ridged part of the stud that fits into the hub. In order to have a good tight press fit you need to make sure whatever stud you use has a knurl size of at least 0.622", but it can't be too large either. If it's too large, it will be difficult to press in and you stand a chance of damaging the hub. NAPA has studs that have a 0.623" knurl (part number BK 641-1128) and these work very well. Below is a picture of a set of my '64 Polara rear hubs with these non-swedged studs installed.
Last edited by Centerline; 10/07/14 02:38 PM.
Centerline 64 Dodge Polara 426 Street Wedge - For when I want to go fast 99 Corvette Z-06 - For when I want to turn corners
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Re: frozen brake drum
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#1681912
10/07/14 05:50 PM
10/07/14 05:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346 Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
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Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
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Quote:
Quote:
Hi guys, I wrote the Wiki article where John Kunkel got the pic of the hub above.
Uh-uh, took that pic myself and first posted it back in 2003....everybody else uses it. (and that's OK)
The plot thickens...
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Re: frozen brake drum
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#1681913
10/07/14 09:33 PM
10/07/14 09:33 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348 Texas Hill Country
Centerline
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 348
Texas Hill Country
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Quote:
Quote:
Hi guys, I wrote the Wiki article where John Kunkel got the pic of the hub above.
Uh-uh, took that pic myself and first posted it back in 2003....everybody else uses it. (and that's OK)
Sorry about that. Looks very similar to the one I took when I was doing the rear brakes on my Polara. After going back and looking in my files, you're quite right that must be your pic, mine was not as sharp as yours and showed some grinding marks where I had removed the swedged stud and replaced it. I actually did use yours in my article because it was a better pic. Its been about 4 years since I wrote that and I had simply forgotten.
Thanks for pointing that out, now after wiping the egg off my face, life can continue.
Last edited by Centerline; 10/07/14 09:39 PM.
Centerline 64 Dodge Polara 426 Street Wedge - For when I want to go fast 99 Corvette Z-06 - For when I want to turn corners
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Re: frozen brake drum
[Re: OzHemi]
#1681914
10/07/14 09:46 PM
10/07/14 09:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,079
Niles , Ohio
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We had the cutter and the swedge tool at work before.Im just sorry I didnt get it when they closed the shops.Idiots even scraped 20 ton OTC presses that cost about 2K each in 86 and they were like new.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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