As I was working on the rebuild of my 727 tonight, I realized that I will end up hounding you guys with multiple posts. Rather than doing that I will ask a simple favor of you trans gurus out there. Could you stick with me this week while I get this thing together and just keep checking this post for questions? That way I can confine things to one thread. I would be very thankful and I believe that it will be helpful to other guys down the road.

Here's what I started with. Starting with a B engine 1975 727 TF, Munroe's transmission manual, dial gauge, dial caliper, snap ring pliers, medium and large C clamps, dead blow hammer air wrench, picks, and typical shop tools. Lots of clean shop rags.

I gutted the trans system by system using Munroe as a guide. Rather than use slide hammers to remove the front pump, I whacked at it from behind using a long socket extension. Worked great. Thank you moparts... I used the large C clamp to compress the springs on the accumulators to get the C clips out and pull them out of the body. Worked great.



Now on to the inspection and cleaning phase.
The accumulator bores look good. The rear clutch sprag was very tight in the race. Yes, I unloosened the set screw. Monroe said to loosen the set screw and then use a small drift to tap the sprag out from behind. It took some coaxing but it came out, however, the backing plate/retainer got tweaked by my drift.



HERE COME THE QUESTIONS!

Was Monroe drunk when he wrote that or did I use to small of a drift? So what shall I do here, guys? the plate still sits against the sprag pretty flush. do I flatten out the dimples made by my drift? Grind them out? Buy a new backing plate/retainer? Look at the face of the backing plate. See the bearing wear? should I replace this?



Take a look at the sprag. The little dowel bearings are in perfect shape as are the springs. Is this sprag okay? It's got some shiny wear spots but I can see all the groves in the cam.



I am now ready to clean the case and tail shaft and continue inspecting and cleaning. What do I use for solvent? is mineral spirits okay? Lacquer thinner?

Monroe suggests bead blasting the case but to rinse it out THOROUGHLY. I won't blast the interior but the exterior would be nice. What's your take? I was a bit surprised he suggested it.

What do you use for assembly lube?

I bought my rebuild kit from PTC. It came with 8 different bushings. So far my bushings are looking very clean and smooth. Do I forgo replacing the smooth ones or do I replace them all while I have it apart? Is there a good way to get them out without a bushing removal tool?

I know that's a lot of questions. Answer all you can and help me get this thing back together by Sunday!

This time of year most guys up here bag an elk and pose with it. I gutted a Torqueflight!

I would just flatten out the dimples made by the drift. Looks pretty good IMHO.
I had to modify my backing plate/retainer significantly more due to the installation of a thrust bearing.

I'd just replace the sprag since you removed it. Those are only like $15 I believe. I wouldn't waste the $100 on a bolt-in.

Add the billet drum if you can. Trans will now be as close to bulletproof as is possible. Don't fall into the "my engine doesn't make enough power" trap. A stone stock 318 is capable of exploding a stock drum.

Kevin

Since you will be beating on this,I want you to meet your new friend http://www.tcsproducts.com/

Supersprag,steel planets,billit drum and a shield should be in your future!

Man, that's pretty. I know this is the race forum and I didn't state my goal. This is a moderate street build. 440, 475 hp, 3.91 SG.
That said, I need basic help in inspection, replacement and assembly.

What about the bushings? Do I knock em all out and replace em or leave em if they are clean? I sure don't want to make another $200 mistake...

I agree with JohnRR, once you've taken the sprag out it will never be the same, get the good bolt in.

As for the bushings most times it's not necessary. You need to check them for wear, look at where the sealing rings ride, especially in the front drum to reaction shaft and input to reaction shaft. If there are any wear grooves on those surfaces the bushings that support them are toast and the hard parts will need to be replaced anyway.

Not sure I'd change the bushings if they're good either, at least without a press. A couple , like the reaction shaft I believe, were somewhat of a pain to get correct on my 727.

Thanks for the other comments on the bushings etc. guys. I've been replying when I can and don't mean to miss comments. I don't have a press but I can have them done if need be.

One thing you haven't stated (and no one has asked) is what kind of VB will you be using? THis will have a great effect on weather you stand a chance of over spinning the front drum.

If you plan on using a VB that does not have a LBA in first gear then I hihgly recomend a billet front drum. Most, manual VB's do not have LBA in first gear. All stock VB's (even those with a shift kit) reatain the LBA in first gear.

I have never knocked out a good working sprag so I can't tell you weather pressing in another factory one will last or not. Cheap insurance to not have to open it up after 5 passes would be a bolt in sprag.

If the bushings look good, I don't bother replacing them. Is it right? Probably not, But I've gotten away with every time so take that with a grain of salt and use your best judgement.

Cleaning the inside? I'm assuming you don't have accsess to a Hot Tank? Works great just be sure the "soap" is aluminum safe. If no tank, accetone or laquer thinner will work fine as will brake clean but that could get expensive. Tranny fluid is a fairly high detergent oil so things should clean up easily.

As for assy lube, beleive it or not, all I've ever used is good ol' petrolium jelly. Heard that trick form my auto trans instructor back in colledge. Never let me down yet.

One other thing I have yet to hear mentioned is, Do you have a lip seal tool? They aren't expensive and kinda a must have. It's really the only "transimission tool" I have ever bought. I can;t imagine how you will gett the seals and drums in correctly with out one.

you only need a lip seal tool for the rear drum/fwd clutch and all you need to get by is a feeler gauge just be careful not to nick the seal.

Take a piece of 1/8" tubing, and peen a piece of stainless wire into it. Hardware stores will have both items.

I've got the Lisle cam bearing install tool , I use it for replacing most of the bushings , I'd at least change the one in the front pump and in the front drum.

Yes the stock sprag will last hundreds of thousands of miles , in a daily driver , but once you start beating on them all bets are off.

My mom had a 72 Fury with a 360, what I drove when I couldn't sneak out in my dad's duster I transplanted the 340 and 4 speed into, I was out screwing around in it one day and was shifting up thru the gears and slammed it into reverse as I overshot drive at about 40mph , the car came to a screeching halt and wouldn't start right up afterwards . anyway we probably put another 5k on it after that before the trans took a dump and I swapped in one I got from the junkyard. When I finally parted the car out I saved the 727. A decade later I decided it was time to see what's going on inside and learn how to rebuild one. I stripped the trans apart and flipped the case over to pump side down and the outer race of the sprag and a hunk of the case fell out onto the bench ...

OK I'll though my 2 cents in. I've probably built over 75 727s. First I agree, I wouldn't have and personally don't remove the outer low roller cam. I have put the old one back in by lining up the splines and tapping it back in w/o issue. Do replace the pump bushing. It can be done w/o a bushing driver if you are very careful by using a piece of flat material, lay it flat across and tap it in straight. Used to do it all the time before I made a bushing driver. Look carefully at the new bushing. You will see that it a rolled piece that is joined with a seam. Make sure the seam is not inline with the area where it will be staked. Round an old punch or hinge pin and stake it. Remove the slight burr with knife, check it now on the converter to make sure it slides on freely. You 2 springs in the front servo. make sure the front clutch drum takes 4 frictions. If it;s set up for 3 replace it, they're cheap Clean the governor. Other than that the most difficult task is installing the front drum piston. You can't rotate it or see the outer seal. take a large zip tie , go around the seal and put the piston/seal/zip tie in the freezer for about 15 minutes. Take it out remove the zip tie , lube the seal and set the piston down as far as you can get it w/o forcing the seal to roll outward. You can fell when this happens. Then take the drum in your hands and tap it hard against a 4x4 wood block. the piston should fall down into the drum. If it does't work. try try again. Do not force it. When done drop both the input and drums into the 'front pump and air check it. Now's the time, don't wait until it's already assembled. I taught myself over 25 years ago. Pay attention, go slow. It will work fine. For what it's worth I run the original 1965 low roller in my 64 Belvedere. 200 passes it looks like new. The car ran 9.18@146 last weekend.
Doug

I have built hundreds of these over the years all you need to do is lube up the front drum and seals real good and just wiggle the piston while applying pressure and it will slip right in no need for zip ties or a freezer.

zip tie and freezer aren't required for a guy that's built 100 of them... but sure as hell helps the new guys out who have no idea what a rolled lip seal feels like...