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Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: GY3] #1665645 09/02/14 08:25 AM 09/02/14 08:25 AM
Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 4,672 Wichita G GY3 master
GY3 master G Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 4,672 Wichita	A subtle splash of color that sets the car off: 8258657-IMG_20140902_052347.jpg (187 downloads)

Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: 70HemiGTX] #1665646 09/02/14 09:53 AM 09/02/14 09:53 AM
Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 10,847 Oakdale CT gdonovan I Live Here
gdonovan I Live Here Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 10,847 Oakdale CT	Quote: You would save a lot of $$$ plus time and aggravation. How do you save money? It will cost more to build a stroked small block (408) and than a stock stroke 440. Headers and mounts are going to be a wash either way and if going auto BB 727 are dime a dozen. Unless you are going to build an "outer limits" small block, the 440 is going to have more cubes to work with. If building an "outer limits" small block you are going to be spending a lot of money on a proper race block which isn't cheap not to mention the proper heads to feed a small block 426/440 Quote: Also it won't be front heavy. A relative argument. A 440 with source heads, aluminum intake, headers and aluminum water pump housing would be lighter than a factory small block, I looked this up just out of idle curiosity. No one ever has made the statement that I'm aware of that a factory 340 or 360 car is "nose heavy." A 440 dressed like I described would be no more nose heavy than a stocker 340/360. Would a small block with also benefit in the weight reduction? Of course but again the small block is going to lose the cube war and will cost more to get there. "I think its got a hemi"

Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: gdonovan] #1665647 09/02/14 02:21 PM 09/02/14 02:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 12,419 Kalispell Mt. H HotRodDave I Live Here
HotRodDave I Live Here H Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 12,419 Kalispell Mt.	Quote: Quote: You would save a lot of $$$ plus time and aggravation. How do you save money? It will cost more to build a stroked small block (408) and than a stock stroke 440. Headers and mounts are going to be a wash either way and if going auto BB 727 are dime a dozen. Unless you are going to build an "outer limits" small block, the 440 is going to have more cubes to work with. If building an "outer limits" small block you are going to be spending a lot of money on a proper race block which isn't cheap not to mention the proper heads to feed a small block 426/440 Quote: Also it won't be front heavy. A relative argument. A 440 with source heads, aluminum intake, headers and aluminum water pump housing would be lighter than a factory small block, I looked this up just out of idle curiosity. No one ever has made the statement that I'm aware of that a factory 340 or 360 car is "nose heavy." A 440 dressed like I described would be no more nose heavy than a stocker 340/360. Would a small block with also benefit in the weight reduction? Of course but again the small block is going to lose the cube war and will cost more to get there. People put 906 heads on 440s all the time and it is plenty of head but an X head or magnum head will flow right there with it but they are "not enough head"? Also a magnum has a waaaaay more efficent chamber and valve placement so you can make more power with less timing and less fuel. A SB eddy flows more than a 906 so the head flow theory is out the window. If you want to get serious a properly done w9 will smoke an well done BB eddy, stealth... TQ is nice but you can always make more TQ with gear ratio and HP is what makes you fast. I like TQ as much as the next guy but am not willing to sacrifice handling, ease of spark plug change. BTW motor mounts are like free for a SB A body but good luck finding BB mounts for free, factory 318 and even 340-360 mounts are a dime a dozen Also the aftermarket block comment is stupid also as the SB seems to hold up to just as many HP as a 440 block while being 35# lighter and no deep skirt. Stroking a BB become a point of futility when your 700# TQ is snapping u joints, trannys, axles... A SB stroker just does it all good, all the TQ most drivetrains can handle, light weight without buying water pump housing heads intake... I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!

Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: HotRodDave] #1665648 09/02/14 02:31 PM 09/02/14 02:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington ScottSmith_Harms Mr Wizzard
ScottSmith_Harms Mr Wizzard Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 42,714 Spokane Washington	This argument could rage on forever, I think to be realistic, either combo is going to be a blast to drive, after all, who WOULDN'T like peddling a 3000lb car around with 500-700HP on tap? The overall combo and intended use for the individual car are what needs to be considered before choosing one or the other. I see either choice as a win/win.

Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: HotRodDave] #1665649 09/02/14 02:34 PM 09/02/14 02:34 PM
Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 10,847 Oakdale CT gdonovan I Live Here
gdonovan I Live Here Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 10,847 Oakdale CT	Quote: People put 906 heads on 440s all the time and it is plenty of head but an X head or magnum head will flow right there with it but they are "not enough head"? Also a magnum has a waaaaay more efficent chamber and valve placement so you can make more power with less timing and less fuel. If you are going to be head swapping the same rules are going to apply to a 440. Its cheaper to buy 440 Source heads then some places charge for guides and a valvejob. I purchased a set of RHS heads with 2.02's for my last magnum motor, cheaper than getting machine work done. Quote: If you want to get serious a properly done w9 will smoke an well done BB eddy, stealth... W9's? Going to be spending a lot of smoke. Again if the sky is the limit the B/RB will win as cubic inches will win that contest. No way to make a 528+ engine out of a small block. Quote: BTW motor mounts are like free for a SB A body but good luck finding BB mounts for free, factory 318 and even 340-360 mounts are a dime a dozen pfft. You are going to talk about the price of motor mounts and W9's in the same breath? This isn't a serious discussion then. Quote: Also the aftermarket block comment is stupid also as the SB seems to hold up to just as many HP as a 440 block while being 35# lighter and no deep skirt. Your not going to bore and stroke out a reliable stock small block to 440 cubic engines. Again, this isn't a serious conversation. 408 to 415 sure, 440 cubes? Nope. "I think its got a hemi"

Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: gdonovan] #1665650 09/02/14 02:56 PM 09/02/14 02:56 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 24,562 Brookeville, Md Mr.Yuck Not enough dumb comments...yet
Mr.Yuck Not enough dumb comments...yet Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 24,562 Brookeville, Md	Well since you are going to be doing a bunch of fab work to get that trans in, you might as well go Big. That smogger 440 is a good start. It's all up to your budget. Guys selling 340's think they are worth a mint...so if you go SB opt for a 360. There are plenty of BB A-bodys around. A cheap mild 440 build will make more usable power than a more expensive 408. Ask yourself what funds you want to spend and what kind of power you want to make. A simple .030 over 10:1 440 with decent heads will make 475-500hp w/o much trouble. It will take some effort to get those #'s out of a CHEAP SB. [IMG]http://i66.tinypic.com/pui5j.jpg[/IMG] Coming soon!!!!

Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: Mr.Yuck] #1665651 09/02/14 08:52 PM 09/02/14 08:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,906 IL, Aurora A ademon master
ademon master A Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 6,906 IL, Aurora	Well the OP has the 440 with a cast crank so basically it's just a bare block since he says he wants a forged crank, the rest of the parts on the 440 are worthless. I would sell the complete 440 and use whatever money to buy a 400 or even get a free 383 block and stroke that since it will fit better and he wants a forged crank. Not sure how the A/C system will fit. Also not sure how the trans he is using holds up to high torque but that's a point to think about and maybe a quicker high reving SB might be more fun. My Stock stroke SB has put a lot of stroked BB to shame, why? I run drag radials on the street. If your going to the trouble of stuffing a big cube BB in it DO NOT run street tires! LOL

Re: Big Block (440, 400, 383) vs. Small Block in A-body? [Re: ademon] #1665652 09/02/14 11:25 PM 09/02/14 11:25 PM
Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 4,672 Wichita G GY3 master
GY3 master G Joined: Dec 2013 Posts: 4,672 Wichita	Quote: Well the OP has the 440 with a cast crank so basically it's just a bare block since he says he wants a forged crank, the rest of the parts on the 440 are worthless. I would sell the complete 440 and use whatever money to buy a 400 or even get a free 383 block and stroke that since it will fit better and he wants a forged crank. Not sure how the A/C system will fit. Also not sure how the trans he is using holds up to high torque but that's a point to think about and maybe a quicker high reving SB might be more fun. My Stock stroke SB has put a lot of stroked BB to shame, why? I run drag radials on the street. If your going to the trouble of stuffing a big cube BB in it DO NOT run street tires! LOL Hooking on the street is definitely an art form.

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