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Also, are there any issues regarding valve cover clearances I need to be concerned with when using your kit?

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Sorry I forgot to answer this. If you are using anything but stock height valve covers, you should be fine, but clearances are something that should always be checked anyway.

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If need be.. stack up 2 gaskets

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JMO but I think the heads are the choke BUT the valve
springs might be weak and cause the upper RPM issue

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The springs are fairly new. They may have 50 passes on them at most. If my memory is correct, at 1.9" installed height they were showing around 180lbs closed and 420lbs open. This was per my machinist. As such, he installed offset keepers to reduce spring pressure slightly. I figured I would check them after a break in period to re-evaluate the necessity of offset keepers.

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Do NOT put on larger primary headers. That will kill the lowend.
I would also not use the 4.88 gears or the tunnelram. The tunnelram would probably run good, but that's not the "look" you're after. Like you mentioned, I'm also not a fan of slow "racecars".

The exhaust will benefit from a crossover...X pipe makes more power than an H, if you don't mind the sound of an X pipe. Either one will be better than true duals.

I don't argue that a straight through muffler flows better than a flowmaster, but on this combo I don't think they'll make much difference. I ran an old pair of 3" 2 chamber flowmasters on my car when it was running mid 11s...made no difference w/ or w/o them.
If your flowmasters are the bigger 3 chambers, then scrap them and get some straight through mufflers like a Dynomax ultraflow or Hooker max flow.

The Holley SD is a VERY good manifold...I'd stick w/ it.
A properly tuned bigger carb will definitely help. 440's love cfm...put an 830, 850, or even a 950 double pumper on it.

I'd keep the cam you have.

You could always throw some .020" thick steel shim head gaskets on it to gain some compression quickly and easily. Cheap too. Of course it wouldn't cost much to have another .020" or .030" shaved off the heads while you have them off.

It would probably like a looser converter too. You can have your current converter loosened up by any of the good converter companies.

In my experience, the electric water pump will be worth nearly a whole tenth in the 1/4 by itself.
On my car, I dropped a little over a tenth by eliminating the big clutch fan...still had the mechanical water pump.
Dropped almost another tenth w/ an electric water pump.
If you get one of the moroso water pump drive kits, you can switch to it at the track...just swap to a shorter belt and change the pulley at the track. The moroso water pump drive will not keep cool on the street.

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Just to touch on this.

My Flowmasters are the 2 Chambers as I recall. It was years ago that I purchased them but I'm 95% certain of this.

I already have the steel head gaskets. I am not entirely opposed to cutting my current heads though. Just haven't committed yet.

I will without a doubt try the 850 once more. Not necessarily the same 850 though.

The Street Dominator will be going back on. It was the better performing intake in this application.

I also will be installing the electric water pump (Direct Drive). If nothing else is gained but ease of cool down in between runs, it will still be worth it.

As far as converter replacement, I've got mixed feelings. I would hate to lose street driveability. It's marginally obnoxious now with the 3500 stall and 4:56 gears.

4:88's are on the fence still. Once I get my motor to rev past 6000 without slowing down it may seem more tempting. I was pretty interested in a low gear set for the 727 as an alternative as Cab mentioned, then I priced them out.

Anyhow, Thanks again everyone! I really appreciate the help and input you offer.

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Do NOT put on larger primary headers. That will kill the lowend.
I would also not use the 4.88 gears or the tunnelram. The tunnelram would probably run good, but that's not the "look" you're after. Like you mentioned, I'm also not a fan of slow "racecars".

The exhaust will benefit from a crossover...X pipe makes more power than an H, if you don't mind the sound of an X pipe. Either one will be better than true duals.

I don't argue that a straight through muffler flows better than a flowmaster, but on this combo I don't think they'll make much difference. I ran an old pair of 3" 2 chamber flowmasters on my car when it was running mid 11s...made no difference w/ or w/o them.
If your flowmasters are the bigger 3 chambers, then scrap them and get some straight through mufflers like a Dynomax ultraflow or Hooker max flow.

The Holley SD is a VERY good manifold...I'd stick w/ it.
A properly tuned bigger carb will definitely help. 440's love cfm...put an 830, 850, or even a 950 double pumper on it.

I'd keep the cam you have.

You could always throw some .020" thick steel shim head gaskets on it to gain some compression quickly and easily. Cheap too. Of course it wouldn't cost much to have another .020" or .030" shaved off the heads while you have them off.

It would probably like a looser converter too. You can have your current converter loosened up by any of the good converter companies.

In my experience, the electric water pump will be worth nearly a whole tenth in the 1/4 by itself.
On my car, I dropped a little over a tenth by eliminating the big clutch fan...still had the mechanical water pump.
Dropped almost another tenth w/ an electric water pump.
If you get one of the moroso water pump drive kits, you can switch to it at the track...just swap to a shorter belt and change the pulley at the track. The moroso water pump drive will not keep cool on the street.

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Just to touch on this.

My Flowmasters are the 2 Chambers as I recall. It was years ago that I purchased them but I'm 95% certain of this.

I already have the steel head gaskets. I am not entirely opposed to cutting my current heads though. Just haven't committed yet.

I will without a doubt try the 850 once more. Not necessarily the same 850 though.

The Street Dominator will be going back on. It was the better performing intake in this application.

I also will be installing the electric water pump (Direct Drive). If nothing else is gained but ease of cool down in between runs, it will still be worth it.

As far as converter replacement, I've got mixed feelings. I would hate to lose street driveability. It's marginally obnoxious now with the 3500 stall and 4:56 gears.

4:88's are on the fence still. Once I get my motor to rev past 6000 without slowing down it may seem more tempting. I was pretty interested in a low gear set for the 727 as an alternative as Cab mentioned, then I priced them out.

Anyhow, Thanks again everyone! I really appreciate the help and input you offer.

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I didn't say converter replacement, just readjust what you have. If a good converter company gets ahold of your converter, it won't be any worse on the street at all...as long as what you currently have has the ability to be adjusted accordingly. I have a 5,000 stall in mine and it drives great on the street...people have ridden in it and commented on how good this converter drives on the street. GOOD converters don't slip a lot on the street.
W/ that said, the converter would probably the last thing I made any changes to right now w/ your combo. Add some more power first, then loosen the converter later on.
There's no reason that combo needs 4.88 gears in my opinion and you don't need to spin it any higher than about 6200 rpm.

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I also tried a Holley 850 in place of my 750 Silver Claw and the car slowed down if you can believe that. I still don't quite understand that.

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Question: Can a 440 with stock cast pistons turn 6500-6800 on a regular basis with reliability? I believe I would be a bit nervous.

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If you haven't read my posts on valvetrain geometry, start there. It will explain a lot and if you still have questions I will be happy to answer them.

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I also tried a Holley 850 in place of my 750 Silver Claw and the car slowed down if you can believe that. I still don't quite understand that.

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850 Holley, unmodified will flow about 850 wet. A 750 Silver Claw will flow about 900 wet and have a better fuel curve. I ran a 750 Silver Claw on my 440 w/ a small solid cam, lightly ported iron heads, and an Edelbrock Performer RPM. It was super crisp. I ran a wide band O2 and a data logger. I was able to adjust it to get me almost ideal AFR for idle, cruise, part and full throttle with very little effort.

-Michael

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It's a PITA on my phone. You can do a user search for B3RE for the last year and it should all come up.

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