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Regarding compression, I know it's holding me back a good amount.

Cutting mine down does seem tempting though as does advancing the cam. I've contemplated advancing the cam, even considered swapping rocker arms to 1.6's. Again, these are substantially cheaper projects and involve modifying or changing parts I already have so perhaps that adds appeal.

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No reason to rebuild, cutting them down is easy to gain comp.

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I'm not asking you to bite anything. It's obvious the car needs more low end and more rpm. Do you already have a smaller cam? If not, that will cost you money. Correcting the valvetrain will depend on how it's done. What other rockers do you have?
Out of all the advice given, you want a guarantee from me. Sounds like you think I know something. How's this, I guarantee it's wrong and I guarantee my solution will make it right. The rest is up to you.

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Just to clarify, I was surprised by your assessment on the valvetrain instability. With a block and heads that have not been cut, in general a low lift cam, no details on brand of rocker arms, valve stem height, etc, you felt that the valvetrain geometry was an issue. I'm not saying it's perfect or that its wrong and I will certainly look into it. I just thought that was an odd assessment, not to discredit it.

I know you've discussed your correction kits in the past with others and from your ad as well as posts, stand firmly behind them. I will certainly give you a call if upon inspection the geometry seems incorrect.

One last question for you. When you say "Valvetrain instability" is a problem in my application, are you suggesting that I am not getting full lift from my cam and that's hindering performance or that I am putting excessive thrust on one side of my valve guides and causing a bind/ excessive drag? I assume both. However, if in your opinion the cam is already oversized which I partially agree with, I would see no benefit from the added lift and only gains from the reduced thrust at the guide? Thoughts?

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Trent,
Please don't misunderstand. I wasn't bashing your car when I said it was wrong. I've seen too many of these combinations to just know when I see them.
I'll make you a deal. I have never done this before and will likely never do it again. I'll send you a kit and you buy the pushrods. That way we both have skin in the game. If the rpm issue is corrected, you purchase the kit. If it doesn't fix it, send back the kit and the purhrods with the receipt, and I'll pay for them and the shipping. You lose nothing.
That's a guarantee you can't beat. Then we will work on the cam.
Your thoughts?

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Trent,
Please don't misunderstand. I wasn't bashing your car when I said it was wrong. I've seen too many of these combinations to just know when I see them.
I'll make you a deal. I have never done this before and will likely never do it again. I'll send you a kit and you buy the pushrods. That way we both have skin in the game. If the rpm issue is corrected, you purchase the kit. If it doesn't fix it, send back the kit and the purhrods with the receipt, and I'll pay for them and the shipping. You lose nothing.
That's a guarantee you can't beat. Then we will work on the cam.
Your thoughts?

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Ok, here is where I am on this.

1.) I'm assuming we are going to determine the success of this based upon the following. If the car runs the same E.T or better shifting at 6000RPM or more(you tell me), as it does shifting at 5600/5800 as previously tested, we call it an improvement? If E.T drops off as previously discussed, we call it a fail?

2.) I'll pay you half the cost of your kit up front. If the kit is successful, I'll pay you the other half and sing your praises to anyone who will listen. If the kit doesn't improve the RPM issue, I'll eat the cost of the pushrods and the half I already paid you and we call it a wash and discuss our next approach.

3.) Just for clarification, am I going to need cut to fit pushrods or what length? Also, are there any issues regarding valve cover clearances I need to be concerned with when using your kit?

I want to be fair with you. You tell me what works for you.

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Hocus Pocus won't show up on dyno or track testing. For every Mopar racer who never had valvetrain issues, there are 50 who have. I run into several every time I go to the track.

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Most of its because people unwrap things and bolt them on. If you don't have adjustable pushrod checkers in your engine build box your starting off with 2 strikes against you from day one.

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Also, are there any issues regarding valve cover clearances I need to be concerned with when using your kit?

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Sorry I forgot to answer this. If you are using anything but stock height valve covers, you should be fine, but clearances are something that should always be checked anyway.

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Trent,
You should see an et gain simply because of the ability to shift at a higher rpm. As I mentioned to Sport440, the best et's are found at 800 to 1000 rpm above peak power in most cases and you are nowhere near that. I figure you should be able to shift at 6500 to start and work your way up until it slows down. I would do a "before and after" at 6000 just to get a true comparison without pushing the motor too far into valve float without the kit.

BTW, PM sent.

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