Anybody good at messing with Turbo Dodges? Recently, my Daytona developed a problem - virtually overnight.

What it does is it'll cut out when you try running into the Boost. It'll buck and lurch like it's not getting enough fuel or the ignition is cutting out. However, it drives perfectly normal as long as you're not boosting.

Since I don't have a fuel pressure gauge for a Fuel Injected car, I have ordered one. In the meantime, I've been playing the part of a shotgun mechanic. I've changed:

- Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Coil
- Hall Effect Pickup
- MAP sensor

Other than the car runs a little better, it still bucks under Boost.

It is not lighting the Check Engine light, nor is it storing any codes.

At this point, I'm betting money on it being a fuel filter or fuel pump issue.

I guess what I'm asking is - am I heading in the right direction? It's been a while since I've played with a TD.

bad waste gate and/or bad map sensor will cause about the same issue you describe.

It sounds like it's going into overboost and the pcm is cutting ignition to pull it back

I agree it sounds like it is going into overboost. Actually I believe that system cuts the injectors off when it goes into overboost. See if it set a code as sometimes it would and not turn the check eng lite on. Also make sure the small hose is still on the wastegate. And some used a Baro solenoid that the wastegate hoses go thru so if it uses a Baro solenoid check and make sure them hoses are on. The solenoid was either on the firewall or the passenger fenderwell from what I remember. If you can see the emission sticker under the hood follow the wastegate hoses and it will show if it uses a Baro solenoid. Ron

But, if it were detecting overboost, would that not set a code? Also, the boost gauge isn't going over 5psi boost.

The only code I'm getting is Code 55. (End of Codes)

How's the boost hose from the turbo to intake throttle body?

How's the spark plugs and wires,cap etc? They need to be in top shape for boost.

Baro solenoid should on passenger strut tower. I had an 87 turbo II years ago. Every time mine would chuck one of the brittle plastic vac. lines it would overboost. When it goes into overboost it pulls real hard then shuts down real hard. Just about throw you through the windshield. I was 19 when I had that car. I would like to have another one. What color are the plugs? It could very well be dying fuel pump. My SRT-4 sorta the did the same thing a few years ago on my way to the Nats. It ran great until you tried to get into boost. I drove it easy all weekend, then changed out the pump once home, and all was good.

Ignition system is mostly new. I changed plugs when I bought the car about 10 months ago. They're still nice and clean.... more on the whiter side of tan.

I'll be picking up my fuel pressure gauge tomorrow so that'll help rule out the pump and/or filter.

I had a MAP sensor cause a fuel problem before where we thought it was the fuel pump until I tested it. The MAP sensor has alot of control over fuel at certain times. But I believe you said you replaced it. Just be sure its a MAP sensor for the turbo cars as they are different since they have to measure vacum and boost. Ron

Rally hit it.

Those are relatively simple cars.

Look on the intake manifold and find the bundle of hard plastic vacuum lines. Look carefully because they're so fragile they'll crack if you look at the wrong.
A simple little crack in one of those lines or it's rubber boot will bleed enough air pressure to send the engine into overboost.
Find the solenoid pack on the strut tower. One of those will be the barometric solenoid. The wastegate solenoid will be in there too. One line will continue inside to the MAP sensor.
It's critical to have GOOD vacuum lines going to those devices. The same goes for the wastegate itself.




Most of the problems I had with my Shelby Chargers were vacuum related.

Check with GDonovan. He is the resident 2.2 turbo guru and knows more about those engines than the rest of the Moparts members combined.

Here's an 89 turbo II vacuum diagram. Your car should be similar.



While you're fiddling with the car, check the fuel supply and return lines going between the fuel rail and the fire wall. They can become brittle over time. The last thing you want is a leak in a high pressure line spraying fuel on a red-hot turbocharger. Be sure to replace them with EFI rated hose.

Actually its been a long time since I worked on them but the Baro solenoid is in the MAP vacum line and the Wastegate solenoid is the one in the wastegate line. It lets the controller be able to raise or lower boost some by controlling the vent in the wastegate line. The Baro just turns off the vacum to the MAP every so often and vents the MAP to atmosphere so it can take a baro reading. I do remember the hard brittle lines that would crack all over when you had to pull the head on one. Ron

My car was a fairly untouched original. All my vacuum lines are still the hard plastic from the factory. Everything was working fine up until recently. I guess it's time to unwrap them all and ensure everything is still whole.

got a picture? my daily driver up to 2008 was a red 87 turbo II shelby daytona. It was like the last one in the area.....unti a distracted punk biotch rear ended me at a light...... end of story.

Nice ride!

Be sure to have plenty of vacuum hose available. If you get the right size you can use it to splice together a cracked line.
That works well enough to get you by until you can find something to take the place of that vacuum tee thing in the intake.

Figured I'd do my fuel pressure test before ripping into the vacuum lines and I see no issues with fuel. Initial key-on puts the rail to 55 psi. Running pressure is anywhere from 45 to 60 (depending on throttle) and I'm currently sitting around doing the leakdown test and I've only lost 2psi in 10 minutes. So, I'm thinking the fuel pump/filter is not the issue.

I'm looking at one of those fancy-pants vacuum blocks on ebay. I was thinking I'll just run a length of 5/16" vacuum hose over to the inner fender, and then just branch off the few little 1/4" lines I need right there. Would be a much cleaner installation, and less hose to worry about.