Over the years I have had some issues with Autometer gauges but they have ALWAYS stood behind them and taken care of any issues. SO they are still ok in my book. You may want to send it in they will take care of any issues you have.

Well crap. I just spent a ton on a set of Autometer Procomp gauges and tach for my Barracuda project. I'll be wary of them at first. I hope I have better luck than the OP.

That's why I like the old school Stewart Warner mechanical gauges....I've never had a problem with them.

Having worked with mechanical gauges in industrial settings for more than 30 years, I offer a few observations.

ANY mechanical gauge will be permanantly damaged if over pressured more than 10-15 % even ONE time. Because of the nature of the bourdon tube assembly inside, you simply CAN NOT hit them with pressure exceeding their range. Mopars are notorious for high oil pressure capability. I would say your gauge saw @ 138-150 pounds for a moment, and it's over. Which is why I have used 0-200 oil pressure gauges for many years, with great results.

In industry, I routinely have 0-300 gauges on service that runs 75-100 PSI. And they are still damaged sometimes by pressure spikes. So I go to 0-400.

I recently damaged an electric pressure sender on my racepak when I accidently installed the pill holder backwards in my injection pump. it only takes once!

If your pressure relief sticks for a moment, or you start a cold motor with thick oil, no gauge will survive. This is one of those issues that no one really analyzes.

Get an Autometer 0-200. You'll be happy. And you'll be surprised when you see pressures north of 100 some times!!

RIP

Also, just because your pressure relief spring is set at say..80 psi, under some conditions it will still build pressure much higher. Oil pumps are what we call positive displacement, meaning that pump WILL move liquid SOME WHERE, even places you won't like. Or break the shaft trying.If you have a combination of tight clearances, high RPM, and thick oil, you get swollen or burst filters, and premature drive gear wear.

I have used Autometer gages from day one in my street cars and race cars going back many years and a lot of cars. Never had one go bad. I have always used mechanical water temp and oil gages.

Not sure if I will keep any of these after I complete the Racepak installation

exactly that's how ALL electric tachs that I have seen work. I have had ton of Autometer gauges over the last 30 years and only had 1 stop working.

It was a electric fuel pressure gauge and the problem was the sender not the gauge and called Auotmeter and they sent a new one no charge.

The only problem I ever had with Autometer in 15+ years was with a low water temp gauge and its sending unit several years ago. They apparently had a bad batch. It was replaced with a revised version and no problems since.

Nothing lasts forever and there are "lemons" in every manufactured product. I can't explain issues that other people have, especially in batches. But my luck with Autometer has basically been "set & forget". I can't afford to use products that I have to worry about.

I have used Autometer for years with out any real issues, I had to replace a water temp. gauge once because the tube/ sensor broke. I have their cheaper brand Autogage tach and gauges in my D150 the only problem I had was an oil leak at the fitting in the block which wasn`t their fault.

I know this is a domestic site, but I quit using autometer years ago after I discovered Greddy and defi gauges. They might look out of place in older rides, but if accuracy and function counts, well....

So far so good here! I sure don't want to change them either!